rangermb

I'm flying a 77J. My turn coordinator is on its last legs. It still works but the gyro is starting to scream and I know it's a matter of time until it grenades. I'm looking for opinions and options. It looks like I can either have it overhauled, replace it with a similar instrument or replace it with one of those whippy-dip LCD units. What do you think? Mike

1977 J here. Just out of latest annual. I've been running Exxon Elite for years, but now it's off the market. We switches to Phillips 20/50 (same grade as the Exxon Elite). I have a few quarts of the Exxon on the shelf. What's the general opinion about using it for topping off the Phillips that is now in the crankcase? Thanks for the wisdom

I went with them because they actually manufacture new parts. They are also the supplier of remanufactured mags available frome places like Aircraft Spruce. After conversations with them I was convinced that they were the best bet to track down my issues.

Just to close the loop on this one... Sent the mag to Kelly for evaluation. They found that the capacitors installed were an older type that should have been replaced with a new version. I'm not sure how the other unnamed shop that performed the previous overhauls missed that. Kelly also found that the gears were discolored and the block was cracked. So, no wonder i have been having issues.

My minor quibble with my 77J is the location of the tank valve. On the floor under your knees. You either have to have really long arms, be a contortionist or use a homemade extension handle to switch tanks.

Wonder what they want for the new units? (Pretty sure mine is a D2000)

I posted this in the Facebook group as well... Starting to feel cursed... I have a dual mag on my 77J. It was rebuilt with the engine about 300 hrs ago. About 50 hrs after rebuild the left points burned out. Replaced the points and 25 hrs later they burned out again. Had the mag rebuilt. About 60 hrs later the drive gear disintegrated. Another rebuild. This week, about 60 hrs later, the mag has failed again (still waiting on diagnosis). Trying to decide if the gremlins are worth chasing and just get a replacement mag Opinions?

When we did mine a few years ago, had the same issue. We suspected that the cylinders under the pedals were hiding some air. We ended up raising the nose a bit while pressure bleeding from the bottom and the are now quite firm.

My hangar fairy is trying to spruce up the interior of my J bit and wants to replace a number of the little screws that attach the thumb plates to the top of the control wheels. Several of them were rounded out by a previous owner and were also suffering from an Ill-fated attempt to spray paint them in place. Any suggestions for a source for these little buggers? Thanks Mike

I'm in the finishing stages of relocation to the sunny South. I am based at Anderson, SC and am looking for a flight instructor for flight reviews and such. Anybody out there have any suggestions? Thanks Mike

In stepping carefully back into this... The beacon weighs 3.0 ounces. The Grimes light it replaced weighs 3.0 ounces. One variable not considered is the weight/location of the wire connectors used for the power. How does all this factor in?

Maybe to clarify... The beacon sniffs the transponder signal. It also has an internal gps and barometer. The initial setup is via WIFI and an app on your tablet or phone. The WIFI in designed to shut off after 5 minutes. During the active period you can activate an anonymous mode to hide your tailnumber. I ran the setup from the driver's seat. Once it's up and running there really isn't a need for monitoring the beacon. You just have to power it up on the ground and leave the nav lights until you are parked. Mike

I completed the installation and testing of my new tailBeacon today. It was pretty straightforward. Two wires for power, 2 screws for the mount and 2 tiny set screws to lock the beacon in the mount after it 1/4 turns into the mount ring. I also lucked out and snagged a rebate in the weekly lottery. The test flight showed no errors. My test was approved and the check is in the mail. In flight, I could not feel any difference in the controls in any phase of flight. I took off, I flew fast, slow, turned steep, descended and landed, and lived to tell the tale. The weight of the beacon is pretty close to the old nav light. The STC documents says that the difference is negligible. As far as balancing the rudder goes, the STC was for a 172. A lot of them have the nav beacon on the rudder. There is nothing in any of the docs that mentions balancing the rudder on a 172. Regards Mike

Had an oil leak. Was getting about 10+ hours/quart but oil use suddenly jumped to 3 hours/quart. Had oil on different places on the lower half of the engine. Cleaned the engine off and ran it around the pattern a few times. The only thing wet after that was the quick drain. Changed it out and no more missing oil. According to my mechanic, changing the quick drain is recommended about every 10 years of average use. What really got my attention was the condition of the notches that hold the valve lever closed. They were worn away to the point that it didn't take much to flip them off the stops to the open position.

I saw their plane last month. Looks pretty nice. They are also interested in selling it to the right buyer. (I dont have any interest as i really like my J)