Louis

The brake was too mushy in my opinion but the right brake worked OK for the last year. (every now and then needing an extra pump to get it to grab) Not optimum for sure. This annual I was determined to get good braking and took apart the right brake cylinder. I found that on the back of the valve (the thing that looks like a disk with a stem) has an O ring on the back of it. If the O ring is not in good shape you may never get a firm peddle. I called LASAR and otherwise could not locate a brake kit that had a new valve or an O ring that fit that valve. It was explained to me that the O ring on the valve was part of the manufacture process and that you could not change it. If anyone has a handle on an aftermarket source for the valve that would be awesome to pass on. Also if anyone has figured out a way to repair the valve I am all ears. In the meantime I bent the spring steel washer spring so that it applied more pressure and the brake works for now. But thinking ahead, the rubber on the backside of the valve will eventually fail completely and the valve will have to be replaced or the rubber O ring/seal will have to be repaired. I have not heard of anyone who has repaired one yet. Any expertise would be appreciated.

I changed the seals in the master cylinders of my M20F, put fancy Teflon brake hoses on my brakes and changed the brake pads. After many tries of pressure bleeding from the brake caliper up and from the master cylinders down I still had mushy brakes. I know that there are many more Mooney pilots that have experienced the same problems bleeding their brakes. I consulted some mechanic friends and after some fought after success the brakes work as they should. This is what I found out. I hope it helps you avoid the immense frustration of bleeding Mooney brakes. Note: My aircraft does not have brakes on the copilot side. The brake line comes from the reservoir to a T above the master cylinders then to each respective master cylinder and then downward toward the brake calipers. If each side is bled individually, an air bubble can shuttle at the T and not bleed out. Air can also hide in the master cylinders. After consulting the maintenance manual and some Mooney mechanics who agreed that it was at times extremely frustrating to bleed Mooney brakes, more that one offered this advice. "If you pressure bleed from both the calipers up to the reservoir at the same time and jiggle the tops of the brake pedals during the process you have a very good chance of eliminating all of the air in system." You can purchase 1/4 inch clear plastic tubing from many hardware stores along with a T fitting so that you can bleed both brakes at the same time with one pressure vessel. If you have any other sure fire techniques for bleeding the brakes I am all ears but this one works great. PS Remember to run a clear plastic line from the top vent on the reservoir to an empty brake fluid can so you can keep an eye on the bubbles and avoid getting overfilled fluid on the cockpit floorboard. I will attach photos of the process later.

Ignition problem solved! The IO-360 A1A came with a shower of sparks system that works with your ignition key. (A bad ignition switch is possible but not the most likely culprit. Testing the switch is a pain in the butt because you have to take it out of the dash and check the outputs of the various connectors as depicted in the maintenance manual. Mine checked fine.) The mags are set to 25 degrees BTDC. So that you don't get kickback during the start the ignition switch shorts out the right mag and the part of the left mag that fires at 25 degrees BTDC and energizes a separate set of points in the left mag that works with the shower of sparks box and fires at TDC for easy starting. Once the ignition switch is released from the far right spring resisted position it goes back to both and both mags come to life. (That is why many people can get their Mooney to start when they release the switch.) The shower of sparks box is mounted on the copilot side on the firewall as far up as you can get. If you have the old style windshield with the access panels in front of the windshield count yourself lucky. I have a 201 windscreen which makes retrieval more suited to a contortionist. (Note: Even if you hear the shower of sparks box buzzing it can still be inoperative.) The shower of sparks box has a coil and condenser in it with a set of points. The distance from the points to the coil which actuates the points is supposed to be gapped at .025 in. You do not gap the points but the distance between the coil and points. Mine was gapped too wide and would not actuate the points as it should have. After dressing the points and setting the gap between the coil and point set the box came to life and pushed the sparks as it should have. I suggest checking the spark at the P lead going into the left mag next to make sure you are getting spark there. Use a multimeter with a beep function so you can wiggle the P lead if you don't get spark. Many times from being flexed many times over the years there may be a short at the end of the P lead where it goes into the mag. I ended up trimming off 3 inches of the end of the lead and re soldering the tip of the lead to get rid of an intermittent short. The final check for the SOS system is to set number one cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke and check that the spark plug fires when you turn the key to the right. (Remove the spark plug and be sure the spark plug side is grounded to the engine and the tip is close to the case so the spark can jump.) You may have to move your prop slightly back and forth to catch the ignition exactly at TDC to get a proper test. Note: Do not stand in the prop arc or grab the prop in a way where you would get hurt if your help accidentally bumped the starter. (Disconnecting the solenoid to starter lead is not a bad idea) Also note that the SOS box packs a punch. Be careful what you touch when power is on it. I hope this helps. It was a frustrating process of problem solving but finally got to the bottom of it. I am sure that people with a shower of spark ignition system who encounter similar symptoms have some variation of the component problems checked or fixed above. Possible problems: Ignition switch, shower of sparks box, lead as it passes through the firewall (check not grounding at grommet), tip of P lead and left mag retard assembly.

Your ignition switch is shorting out when you turn it all the way to the right and push in the switch to start it. When you release the switch slightly to the left the short is closed and it starts. The problem is in your switch. I have seen that issue before.

Communicated with Peter from the UK this week and he has made me a new interface cable that I will test as soon as it comes in. Afterward I will post how to purchase one from him. That should make it painless for everyone with a KLN 94 to update it. Standby for updates...

The ScanDisc Imagemate is a good option and once configured with the correct firmware and your computer with the correct emulator software will be a good option for updating your data card from the KLN 94. Alternatively, I have some new news for the PC laptop with interface cable option. With the PC laptop option all you have to do is download the Data Downloader program from wingmanservices.bendixking.com and use an interface cable. Peter (the fellow you mentioned from the UK ) is going to make me a brand new cable with a USB on one end and the 3.5mm jack that plugs into the front of the KLN 94 on the other. So no more searching for a used interface cable on Ebay. If the cable works he said that he would be a supplier for anyone who needs an interface cable. For some, that solution may ultimately be the cheapest way to update your KLN database. A free data downloader program for your PC and a cable purchased from Peter in the United Kingdom.

The SET 3 page is where you get can see the key to supply to BK when you get the data download.

I found a number of the ScanDisk SDDR-31 writers on Ebay. Is there a way to get the the firmware on it without sending it to Bendix King or does the virtualbox take care of that? Thanks

Thanks Ilya, I take it that Peter's directions has the card reader name or model or part number. Thanks a bunch I will give it a try.

That sounds awesome. Have you gotten that method to work on the KLN 94? I would need step by step directions not being of the programming world. Like where you buy the card reader, what model is it or part number, is there any protocol to update the card considering the key etc. The company contracted to manage the subscriptions for Bendix King is in Puerto Rico so they are on Atlantic time and have limited hours. I believe their tech support is limited as well and it took a few letters to find my subscription. When you said "write the database" are you saying that you can use any subscription service that has the data or the Bendix King subscription with their data interface? Thanks....

I would like to clear up some confusion with the KLN 94 and updating the database. Since there is a shortage of cards for the unit and because Bendix/King charges an extra fee to update with the cards, it is easier to use a PC laptop. I have a Mac and was advised not to segment the hard drive to emulate a PC as it is a pain in the tail feathers to make work. So I bought a cheap reconditioned laptop and dedicated it to my database updating. If you already have a PC laptop you are in business. The interface software is available at wingmanservices.bendixking.com and is a free 4.5 MB program that can talk to your KLN 94. Purchase a subscription to update your database with whatever interval you desire. (I bought the 13 download special because I like having a database that is current so I can safely use it in an IFR environment.) Purchase an interface cable that has a USB on one end and an 8MM jack on the other end that you can plug into the laptop and KLN 94. I found one on Ebay for $20. Just type in KLN 94 interface cable and you should get a hit. Make sure that the PC end is compatible with plugs on your computer or you may need an adapter. Copy or take a picture of the SET page 3 of your KLN 94 unit which has the key on it that you will have to provide to Bendix/King when you download the update. Download the update to your desktop or to your downloads folder. (you just have to be able to find it when you go to update) Connect the units and follow the prompts. There is a video on YouTube that has a guy updating his unit with a PC that is helpful. The only problem that I had was having to designate the correct comm port so the units could talk to each other. Once that was done it was a fairly painless process as there are prompts in the popup windows that address that. Now that I have done it I should be able to replicate every month to keep the unit IFR capable. I hope this helps.

I have only updated my KLN 94 once and have not experienced it changing. It is easy enough to check. Just look on the SET page 3 after you complete an update. As soon as the new versions comes out (every 28 days) the key would change. I don't think that is the case though.

I believe Mooney needed a trainer model that gets new folks familiar with and hooked on the brand. Marketing is important. Aerodynamics and the laws of physics don't change. If the concept is good, it can have staying power through the years. Improvements and changes in materials and manufacturing processes are always welcome when there is a better way of doing things. Mooney has shown improvements over the years. The last owner was Chinese if I am not mistaken. I would like to know from an insider what the vision of the owner was. Was there a board of directors that had latitude to make decisions or were all delegated top down? The Chinese own the Diamond brand which is successful. One of the articles I read about the Mooney demise noted poor sales in the last 2 years. What adjustments were made to counter the trend in a robust market? What controls where in place to manage fixed and variable costs? What did Mooney do to remain competitive with like models? There are many questions to ask that make a difference in the health of the company aside from whether the design is a winner. I bought a Mooney because they are fast and efficient. The M20F with its stretched fuselage is a true 4 place aircraft and comfortable for me at 6'4" tall. I believe that it is a winner. If we can get an insider from from the company to comment we may find that there is more to the story than the design.

I have a KLN 94 GPS that works. I successfully updated the database. I cycled power to the set after the update and one of the startup screens still says "GPS for VFR use Only GPS Approaches Disabled ACKNOWLEDGE?". I thought with the new database I would regain some capability but apparently the configuration module housed on the back of the unit is a stand alone module that determines that capability and is programmed during setup of the unit. I would like to have non-precision approach capability with the GPS as that is the only approach available to my home field. How do you go about getting the configuration module to reflect and IFR capable unit? I know certain annunciators and interfaces are required in order for the unit to be used for IFR purposes. Is a visit to an avionics shop the only way to fix this problem?