Bartman

I bought a couple of 6oz bottles of Molybdenum Disulfide on Amazon, and I have Aeroshell #7. However, I have been using the mix from LASAR, and in this and the "Let's Talk Lubrication" thread, there is mention of incompatibility. I need to grease the Dukes Actuator gearbox for the annual, but I don't want to remove the actuator for complete cleaning until summertime when a friend with the landing gear tool will help set preload. I have read Aeroshell 7, 33, and Lubriplate 630AA with 10% Molybdenum Disulfide in these lubrication threads. What does LASAR use, and what do you guys use? I only have plenty of #7 and a dedicated small grease gun for this purpose.

This is by far the most important post on this thread.

If cruising ROP, I am always at least 125 ROP.

9.3 GPH sounds about right for that power setting at that altitude. I typically aim for 10-15 LOP at that altitude and the higher I go the closer to peak EGT. As posted above, I lose more than 5 kts at the power setting you described. I'm typically 145 kts LOP, but others may see more. I can do 155kts under optimal conditions while ROP, but the juice is not worth the squeeze.

Sorry, this is the first thing that came to my mind, and I could not resist.

This is precisely what I did. After removing the inner gear doors, that space was perfect to slide a couple of 2x6 for a base and add 2x4 as I jacked it up and provided a solid base while I changed the tire and tube. The 1" solid bar worked great, and based on the amount of flex seen, I would not trust anything hollow. As an owner/operator, I can perform everything required for this repair and then fly home without engaging an A+P. I can remove, install, and repair landing gears and tires, service wheel bearings, and remove non-structural fairings. The POH recommends the removal of the inner gear doors if going into a grass field. Removing the inner doors does not require touching the outer gear doors, so a gear swing is unnecessary. We will swing the gear when we put the inner doors back on later.

I love my J, and we have taken other couples on trips many times. It requires 1.5 - 2 hour fuel stops, but not a deal breaker. The F model becomes very attractive if you want the best entry cost, enough space, and useful load to fly another couple. Many of them are modified and essentially a J model.

That's what I needed to know. I can get a 1" diameter cold rolled rod at Tractor Supply, and I have a jack, blocks, and jack stand. I should be good to go. Thank you !

I can't say enough good about Edison. He did my tanks nearly 15 years ago, and I have had zero problems. He finished the work on time, and I have no regrets.

Columbus OH KTZR

After nearly 20 years of ownership I had my first flat over 5 hours from home and no service available this past Saturday. I have always used Goodyear Flight Special II with Michelin Leak Stop tubes and know to check and add air periodically, especially when the temperature drops. On landing, it was apparent that I had a flat, and I knew not to try to "make it" to the intersection and taxiway. The line guys brought a specially designed tire dolly, but with the gear doors, it requires jacking the plane to position it correctly. One of the line guys had a strong back, so the two of us used our backs to lift her from under the wing........ Yes, I tipped the line guys very well. I can change the tire this weekend after I drive 5.5 hours back to where she sits on the ramp, and I'll have to bring any tools back with me in the plane, so a wing jack may not be the best option. I know I can use a bar and floor jack, but my question is, what kind of bar? A previous thread suggested using the tow bar, but mine is not solid, which does not sound like a good idea. I want to be prepared when I get there and have everything needed. What size bar and what kind of material should I get, and where can I find it ? I don't want to buy something that will bend and not lift the plane.

I used a couple of pieces of foam for a while, then my wife bought the tail cover from Bruce a few years ago. I cannot say it is the easiest thing to put on, but it keeps the birds out. I use it when traveling and parked on the ramp, especially in the spring.

Replace those worn out baffle seals with the ones made by @Gee Bee Aeroproducts

@IdahoMooneyPilot If you have concerns about water in the system, add some 99% Isopropyl Alcohol. IPA absorbs water, but you don't want the stuff you get at CVS which is 70% IPA, you want the 99% stuff. I think I got some from Aircraft Spruce years ago. The POH for my J gives specifics on amount and/or concentration. Add to the tanks and go fly.

I had the same issue even after replacing the spark plugs. I diagnosed it the same way. A new ignition harness for my A3B6D solved the problem, and instead of some fabric-looking insulation, I now have red silicone that looks like it belongs on a hot rod.