Bartman

If I have work done that involved the elevator trim or another critical system I would absolutely research. The Mooney trim system is unique and I would absolutely provide crucial information including maintenance procedures to the shop performing the work. I use “teach back” all the time and I would make sure the shop can verbalize the importance, and would specifically ask about the install and rigging on pickup. I would also be aware of potential incorrect rigging of the trim system and know how to test it during preflight to ensure travel to the stops in both directions and confirm the indicator is working properly too. I’m not trying to make myself look better than anyone else. My brain just thinks risk mitigation and I’m simply putting the things I have learned from experience and on Mooneyspace into practice.

This is exactly why I own maintenance manual, illustrated parts catalog, research and interact on mooneyspace, and participate in my own maintenance. I’m a physician but have a mechanical background, and the thought processes for differential diagnosis and treatment of illness are the same as mechanical issues. I am blessed to have a great IA that I work with and he appreciates all off the research and information I bring to the table before anybody touches my airplane, including him. For example, about 15 years ago we removed the trim jack screw and sent to LASAR for service. All of the information was in the MM and had been discussed here on Mooneyspace, and we avoided this exact issue during installation and return to service. I am very thankful for this community ! As a couple of members stated above, this should be entered as a service difficulty report.

Look at the advertisement in the first post

So for $700 you get 3 jack frames but not the bottle jacks. I see some benefit in these, but I would spend my money on a good set of aircraft jacks first.

I agree it is not always practical to do an inspection away from home and in this instance I may do the same thing. I had a pre buy done at a well known Mooney shop in 2007 and they did find and fix a couple of things at the seller’s expense. No corrosion or big ticket items except for leaking tank which I knew I’d have to fix. However, over the next couple of years we found several other items that needed to be addressed. There will be things this shop does not find, but hopefully you can avoid the gotcha items as I did.

I’ve had that before and 75 LOP is too lean. I typically run 20 LOP at lower altitudes and the higher I fly, the less LOP. By the time I’m at 8-9K I’ll be at or near peak. If over about 10K I’ll lean to the first cylinder to peak or run slightly ROP. GAMI spread of 0.4 sounds good, but the deeper LOP that spread likely increases and as Skip stated, the cycle-to-cycle variations can amplify the misfire. The closer to 0.0 you can get, the deeper she will run LOP without a stumble or running rough. Cleaning the injectors and swapping the first to peak with the last can improve the GAMI spread. That worked for me. Try a magneto check in cruise around 8,000ft and 50LOP. You may discover which cylinder, and find something that points you toward a bad plug, wire, or magneto.

Oh I see now. I thought it was bent outwards by wobbling, but it is actually bent inwards.

Wow ! It is likely that the bulkhead deformed because the tape on the hub was not sung enough. If it’s not tight enough at the bulkhead-hub interface, the spinner was wobbling around at 2700 rpm and results in cracks in the spinner. You better take a really good look at the backing plate. I would not be surprised if it is cracked too.

The best way to make a small fortune in aviation is to start out with a large fortune. I’m not touching this with a 39 and 1/2 foot pole.

Assuming all baffling is good here are a couple of suggestions Remove and clean each injector. Do the baby food jar to confirm equal fuel flow, with the injector inserted installed. Check ignition timing. 25deg BTDC is allowed on my A3B6D but it runs hotter than 20deg.

A few years ago I saw that I had apparently I flown to Europe or something like that, but I don’t remember it.

Call LASAR and see if they will rebuild it and install new shock discs. Add a new steering horn and a couple of hemi joints and it will last another 50 years.

The antennas on top look salvageable.

Mine leaked there after a few hours on my overhauled engine. The pipe threads were not very tight. A bit of sealant fixed it. I think it was just a small drop of Permatex Aviation. Mine did not spray, but it is always possible to have two leaks.

I don’t blame you for getting the new alternator and you get a new bracket. That being said, when I installed my engine I ran a new field wire and coiled up a few inches of extra wire. The terminal at the alternator is prone to breaking due to vibration. I change the terminal every few years. Also like Yetti, my local alternator shop checked and cleaned my tractor alternator a few years ago.