Bartman

That's what I needed to know. I can get a 1" diameter cold rolled rod at Tractor Supply, and I have a jack, blocks, and jack stand. I should be good to go. Thank you !

I can't say enough good about Edison. He did my tanks nearly 15 years ago, and I have had zero problems. He finished the work on time, and I have no regrets.

Columbus OH KTZR

After nearly 20 years of ownership I had my first flat over 5 hours from home and no service available this past Saturday. I have always used Goodyear Flight Special II with Michelin Leak Stop tubes and know to check and add air periodically, especially when the temperature drops. On landing, it was apparent that I had a flat, and I knew not to try to "make it" to the intersection and taxiway. The line guys brought a specially designed tire dolly, but with the gear doors, it requires jacking the plane to position it correctly. One of the line guys had a strong back, so the two of us used our backs to lift her from under the wing........ Yes, I tipped the line guys very well. I can change the tire this weekend after I drive 5.5 hours back to where she sits on the ramp, and I'll have to bring any tools back with me in the plane, so a wing jack may not be the best option. I know I can use a bar and floor jack, but my question is, what kind of bar? A previous thread suggested using the tow bar, but mine is not solid, which does not sound like a good idea. I want to be prepared when I get there and have everything needed. What size bar and what kind of material should I get, and where can I find it ? I don't want to buy something that will bend and not lift the plane.

I used a couple of pieces of foam for a while, then my wife bought the tail cover from Bruce a few years ago. I cannot say it is the easiest thing to put on, but it keeps the birds out. I use it when traveling and parked on the ramp, especially in the spring.

Replace those worn out baffle seals with the ones made by @Gee Bee Aeroproducts

@IdahoMooneyPilot If you have concerns about water in the system, add some 99% Isopropyl Alcohol. IPA absorbs water, but you don't want the stuff you get at CVS which is 70% IPA, you want the 99% stuff. I think I got some from Aircraft Spruce years ago. The POH for my J gives specifics on amount and/or concentration. Add to the tanks and go fly.

I had the same issue even after replacing the spark plugs. I diagnosed it the same way. A new ignition harness for my A3B6D solved the problem, and instead of some fabric-looking insulation, I now have red silicone that looks like it belongs on a hot rod.

My flap has been stepped on too. Wife and I know better, but I lower the flaps before allowing ingress or egress for passengers.

I watched about 2/3 of the video. That's all I needed to see to confirm my decision.

I'm no expert, but if this were my plane, I would replace that mechanical fuel pump before the next flight.

Are you sending your fuel pump to Aeromotors for rebuild ? Mine has the Dukes pump, and now the rebuilt pump should outlast the rest of the plane.

I keep it simple and have not looked at the power charts in several years, relying on the engine monitor. Takeoff balls to the wall and lean to maintain target EGT during climb as described in the Pelican Pearch articles. Close cowl flaps when I reach cruise altitude and don't touch anything else until speed stabilizes. Pull back to 2500 and set the JPI to Lean Mode. At my normal cruise of 7k - 8k set it at 10-15 deg LOP and WOT. If I cruise any higher, I will run at peak EGT. Trim, set the autopilot, and enjoy the view. If I change altitude, then I lean again. Descending nose it over and pull the throttle back as required to maintain cruise MP. There is no need to adjust Prop RPM, but I increase the Mixture just enough so she doesn't sputter when I add throttle for taxi.

Before I pulled the trigger and rebuilt my IO-360 in 2020 she was leaking a good amount and at 1950 SMOH it was burning some too. It was leaking so much that the oil didn't have time to turn dark between oil changes. Despite changing at 35 hours, the oil probably had more like 20 hours. When we disassembled, it was very clean inside. No deposits and no sludge. Now its like Johnny Bench used to say in the commercial. No runs, no drips, and no errors. I like not having a mess under the engine, but my oil does get dark a bit quicker. I have never done an oil analysis. Don't plan on it.

I took mine to Edison in Jan 2008. Had one leak 14 years later from a screw under the wing walk which I fixed with a SMALL amount of Permatex #3. 17 years later I remain very happy.