Shadrach

Greetings! I need the right side (passenger) instrument cover for my F. Mine has just gotten too ratty to repair. I am pretty sure that one from almost any E or F model from 66 through 69 will work. PlanePlastics has them but I need one with post lights and that they do not offer. Hopefully one of you fine folks saved your's after a panel change... I'll post a pic later! Thanks in advance!!!

I was checked out and soloed in an M20F on my 200th hour. I promptly flew it from MD to Martha's vineyard the same day. Insurance was $1500 anually (2003) with 55K hull 1MM smooth. Was it a lot of bird for me at the time? Sure, it was all bird I thought I'd ever need (I still feel that way 95% of the time). As for the expense, it depends on how you own. Time permitting, I have an IA help me do my annuals in my own hangar. I did the same thing with regards to hanging our IRAN'd engine this winter (the cold slowed things down a bit). Dry 172s rent for 105 an hr. on my field and I have no control over the mx. From a travel standpoint, cost per mile, my Mooney is probably less then renting a 172. However, it is a family partnership so it has it's ups and downs. I would suggest you learn in a trainer and master it before moving into a Mooney... It's better to be hamfisted with a rental. by the time you have 150hrs you'll be more than ready to consider complex machines.

Quote: Jsavage3 Shadrach, No cylinder work on this bird yet. I bought it 6 mos. ago knowing it was making metal because we found it in the oil filter during the pre-buy. The seller adjusted the price accordingly, so I bought it hoping it was going to "clear up". Now, after 35 hours and the 3rd filter cutting session, my fears have been confirmed. Compressions? That's the hard part -- the compressions, oil consumption, pressures/temps, oil analysis, everything has been great -- no sign of a problem...other than the continuation of fine, steel granules in the oil filter...and my A&P says it a lot...not just a granule here-n-there..............

Quote: Jsavage3 Based on all the info here, my own research elsewhere and knowing my engine is spitting steel sand, I've decided on a teardown. It's expensive, but one cannot put a price on the value of your loved ones. If I continued trying to evaluate the details by continuing to operate the airplane, I believe I'd be putting my family and myself at considerable risk. The cost of the repair is much more palatable.

Quote: 1970m20e On my 1970 m20e with electric gear when the gear moves up/down I can hear it as well as literally feel it move into the up and down positions. As the gear has moved into 1 of the 2 positions. Up or Down. My question is, is this normal to actually feel it in your butt? My plane is in annual now so I will be going to see the gear up/down on the jacks and I want to ask my mechanic if something is rubbing or what not but I've only got about 20 hours in the plane so don't know what's normal. Does anyone else feel this? Thanks.

Quote: 1970m20e On my 1970 m20e with electric gear when the gear moves up/down I can hear it as well as literally feel it move into the up and down positions. As the gear has moved into 1 of the 2 positions. Up or Down. My question is, is this normal to actually feel it in your butt? My plane is in annual now so I will be going to see the gear up/down on the jacks and I want to ask my mechanic if something is rubbing or what not but I've only got about 20 hours in the plane so don't know what's normal. Does anyone else feel this? Thanks.

Quote: Magnum I've ran a tank dry once, it was the first time flying a Mooney together with a CFI. When he saw the fuel pressure fluctuate he switched tanks and I switched the fuel pump on. A couple of seconds later the engine went out and came back to life two or three times and then ran continously. The problem was every time the engine went out and came back the RPM went over the redline as the prop governor was not fast enough to react. Sure, we should have reduced power immediately but I didn't think of that before. For me that is reason enough to NOT run a tank dry.

Congratulations! Quote: Vref Congrats....don't mention the landing speed though it's a highly volatile subject.

Quote: N601RX The PRC 1422 is a little on the expensive side. You can usually get some that just expired a few days ago on e-bay for a fraction of the cost of a new tube. As long is it is properly stored it is good long past it's expiration date. I've used some on non aircraft projects that was almost 4 years past it's expiration date. It's a good idea to store it in a sealed bag in the refridgerator. I believe there is some stripper here in the US that works good on the sealent. I think there is a couple of threads here on Mooneyspace about it.

This what I and many others have used to remove sealent from rivit areas for patching. http://www.rpm-technology.com/Poly-Gone.htm It is definitly a propriatary formula. It works well when the directions are followed. BTW - ZAR20k is pretty cheap compared to what it costs in the States...

Quote: DaV8or Avoid the whole problem and get a fuel totalizer system of some kind. I have one and it is reasonable accurate, therefore no reason to ever run tank dry. Keep some of your researve in each tank.

Quote: Jsavage3 Shadrach, please explain the how & why one needs not worry about contaminants being pulled into the fuel lines when running a Mooney's fuel tank dry. Does the fuel tank design "filter itself" somehow prior to the fuel pickup point?

Quote: TLSDriver I think I have put the cart ahead of the horse. I called GAMI today. Had a great conversation. He told me they have had 3 engines that didn't like to run LOP. Unfortunatly, the Bravo was one of them. I have about a 1.5-2.0gph difference between richest and leanest cylinder. He said with the GAMI I should be around .5gph. I asked what could cause such a gap and he said to check for : 1) Induciton leak 2) Exhaust leak. 3) Plugs\Wiring harness(ingition issue.) 4) Make sure that gami injectors are in the correct cylinders. I guess I must have laughed when he said that and he responded by saying it happens way more than anyone would think. In any event unless the above is as it should be LOP isn't even on the table. There was two other things that I found intersting. He claims at 65% power the little red knob will not hurt the engine regardless of where it is set. Secondly, At or above 20k in altitude LOP was not likely. I didn't completly understand it but it had to do with the fuel being harder to ignite at altitude and LOP only made it worse. I have an oil change scheduled for tomorrow so I will bring the above list up with the shop and see what they say.

For the filets in the tanks - Flamemaster CS3204 B2 or equivalent AMS-S-8802 formerly Mil-S-8802F Type II For the access doors - Flamemaster CS3330 B2 or equivalent AMS 3284 Type 1 Formerly Mil-S-8784B You'll find that Jose's recommendation meets the above listed Mil-S-8802F Type II/AMS-S-8802 for inside of the tanks. Do not use it on access doors! What's your plan?

Quote: WardHolbrook I'll second everything you have written. The Mooney wing is very "jet like" in that it likes to go fast, but that's not to say that it doesn't do very well at slower speeds as well - it just feels different. It's a shared trait with a lot of high performance aircraft. You guys that are having problems with float, just slow it down a bit. If you don't have confidence in your ability to consistently control your airspeed as a steady 1.2 Vso it's probably time for a little dual.

Quote: alex I feel like I am in an episode of Jerry Springer!

Quote: scottfromiowa My dad had some wonderful qualities...He also had some awful ones... So..."F#$% You!"...

Larry, I think that if you use the equations posted in this thread, you will find that your landings improve. Try to master full flap landings. Landing full flaps will be gentler on equipment (especially brakes on shorter runways), and offers superior visability on final because of the inherent pitch change. One thing that bothered me when I was green was the difference in feel at slow speeds. Mooneys tend to be firmer in roll than in pitch during most flight ops. However, as the plane gets slower the control harmony changes. This can feel foreign after spending time at higher speeds. This leads to the urge to fly a bit faster because it feels too soft or "mushy"... A good exercise is to go up and fly around @ 1.1 and 1.2 Vso in landing configuration, and don't forget your feet, the aileron/rudder interconnect is typicaly not enough in slow flight. Practice slow descents and shallow turns. Take an instructor with you the next time if it makes you more comfortable. Good luck!

Quote: Jsavage3 I won't intentionally run a tank dry because of what I see occur everytime I sump my tanks. Dirt/water sinks to the bottom - right where that last gasp of fuel gets pulled into my fuel injected engine. The "ppm" or contaminates per ounce of fuel increases as the quantity decreases in the tank. When my low fuel light illuminates, I switch to the other tank.

Quote: danb35 If you're not already familiar with them, I'd recommend a review of many of the Pelican's Perch articles at AvWeb, here: http://www.avweb.com/news/pelican/list.html. In particular, the "Where should I run my engine" and "Those fire-breathing turbos" series are very relevant. For advanced study, take the course from Advanced Pilot--$400 online or 1 AMU in person, but given that your engine is around $50k I'd think it's worth it (I'm trying to make the time to take it myself).

I think there have been some miscommunications based on semantics. That being said, I cannot imagine why anyone would want to land a mooney without flaps unless it was practice for a flap INOP situation, or maybe in very strong cross winds where a little extra speed gives a little extra control authority. I appreciate a lot of what Bob has to say. However, he has also made some rediculous statements like. Quote: Bob Kromer

Quote: scottfromiowa This is a Mooney forum. It's about Mooney's. Mooney's primarily have T.W.O. wing tanks. People being AFRAID of Stalling a Mooney turning base to final...or being AFRAID to run a tank dry (your choice of words) means they have reviewed accidents and have seen FATALITIES from these. They have educated themselves and modified their technique to AVOID THE RISK of having this occur. If someone was coming over the fence at 100mph...and some Mooney pilots do they run the risk of floating, losing runway and forcing nose down, porpoising and suffering a prop strike, gear up or airfield over-run. Gross excess in speed on final. Something to avoid. If you want to saw you know your tail is 1 foot off the ground...awesome. I bow to your amazing pilotage, skill technique. Minion signing off.

Quote: Bnicolette

Quote: scottfromiowa Shad...The guy asked for input. I provided it. Advice. I'm just a pilot, I'll leave that to the professionals. I routinely land on 3500-4000 feet runways in all different seasons throughout the year when not landing at my home field CID...which has a crapload of runway. I would feel comfortable landing on any 3000 feet runway. I do all landings power off when runway is made and have read enough about stalling a Mooney on base to final turn that I don't get below a 100mph. I routinely landed no flaps when solo for years and hundreds of hours, but have begun to us 1/2 flaps (two pumps) or full flaps...always full flaps when I have 600 pounds (my routine three passengers). My "technique" was critiqued yesterday on three landings with a CFI on a 3500 feet runway including an emergency procedure "simulated power out" with power at idle from downwind (even with end of 18) with winds at 10-15 at 120...Instructor was pleased and signed off with no "issues". I do NOT have a float issue with my plane coming over fence at 70-80 and coming down to flare point hearing stall horn. Light breaking to first taxiway...I know at what speed my plane stalls and with power off over fence i'm into flare and down ALWAYS in first third of runway. I believe I have addressed your questions. If you fly slower. Good for you. I don't.