jetdriven

Barry do you have a better part number for replacing the 2N2016? Mouser said it would work fine. Those old ones get warm in use as well, they had thermal paste under them.

Our iPad 2 has a GPS chip and it is wifi only. The GPS sucks without cell tower assist, however. I think in the plane its all the same. We bought a bad elf anyways. Quote: danb35 Maybe a dumb question, but do you have a 3G model? The WiFi-only models don't have a GPS chip.

At OSH the only PMA'd wingtip strobe was a Whelen unit that cost 1200$....per wingtip. It looked like something off a Citation. It may be a while before we see some reasonable options there.

Drapo that is a really nice looking Mooney! Classic paint scheme.

JR I think you need to find a new mechanic before they get you killed. Seriously, they shouldnt touch that carb without the proper manuals etc. Thats the wildest story I have ever heard. Quote: jrwilson The mechanics thought it was the carb float rubbing/sticking on the side of the bowl, so they soldered it and moved one of the floats. I did the test flight and the engine quit at three thousand feet, luckily I was close to the airport, so no problems but did need the tug to get back. Seems when they soldered the float it opened up a hole, which they didn't find when they soaked it in gas (pressure may have opened it up), which caused the float to sink. They've ordered a new float (an overhaul kit actually) and that should fix that. No idea if the original problem is solved or not. They rerouted a fuel line which had a sharp angle, which could have been a problem too. They're saying they've never seen this type of problem before, which isn't very comforting...

4 grand more than a reseal patch job gets you bladders and loses 30 pounds useful load. They never leak again. Its been discussed ad nauseum on here, but have a look.

Does it look like this? Mine is going bad too.

Still, 6900$ for the 430W, 2-3K for installation, and 1500$ for a GI-106 thats 10,500-11,500$ for installed used 430W. I had a frined had one installed for 12K new including the indicator. Am I missing something?

The big wire going to the side of the alternator, check that for tighness at the end where it bolts to the stud. While you are there check the small wire going to the back as well. What happens is the nut on the stud gets loose, and the wire arcs to the post causing the alternator to intermittently not charge. Finally the wire or the post burns through and no more charging. We had a mechanic who installed it and didnt torque the nut. It started acting up (low voltage light at idle, going out during runup) after about 3-4 hours. It failed completely in 32 hours.

is that the one with two screws holding the cover on?

That schematic is from a 1976 M20F Service and Maintenance Manual. However the note on the schematic says its effective from SN 24-0071 and on, whihc would be a J model. Mine is configured just like that one, wire numbers and all. Its a 77 J SN 24-0162. I think yours will be very similar. I swapped out the transistors with MOSFET transistors, soldered them up and heat shrinked all the legs, then bolted them in and connected the wires. It takes a couple hours but worth it. Here is a better screen shot of the schematic. Holler if you need additional or more info.

The water in the tanks at that point is already frozen and may precipitate out. The only danger I think is clogging a screen with ice crystals. This brought down a 777 in London.

Check your output post nut on the alternator immediately. Ours did that and it melted the post and the wire off in flight.

Isoprtopyl alcohol and ethanol arent really the same thing.

so, 9500$ for a non-waas 430 installed. That 430 was 10K installed new and the 430W is right at 12K. which is what it would cost used. I just dont understand why.

OK then what about the install costs?

How much for the install? From looking on ebay etc the 430 non-waas are 5,500$. GI-106 indicator 1K. plus installation, 3k? so 9,500 installed. Sell your KX-155 for 1500$. So 8k$ for non-waas 430 laid in. 430W is 2K more, so 10K. bur new 430W installed is 12K, so how do you do it for less than new?

No its about the same for a J but dont give up. Use an elbow fitting to make the tight bends. Thats what we are going to do. I have two hard 90's to make, with elbows.

old 2N2016 info new 2SC5200 info I forgot the thin plastic wafer under the old transistors must be modified and reused. You cannot allow the rear of the transistor or the screw to make electrical contact to the mount.

You guys are in luck, seeing as how I managed to blow up both panel light transistors and the FM-01 fuses as well. The transistors get loose in the mount and the legs short out to ground, killing them. The old transistor on mine is a 2N2016 I bet yours is as well. This is a NPN silicon transistor. They are no longer available. I replaced them with 2 2SC5200 transistors, which are also NPN but the newer MOSFET design and 230V 15A 150W rated. An alternate is the 863-MJH11020G whihc is 200W. Bolt them up and dont forget the thermal paste underneath them, they transfer a lot of heat. Wire the emitter, collector, and base you are ready to roll. Cheap as well. From Mouser electronics, the same source for the FM-01 fuses, which I would guess you need 2 of as well. Here is some info in the photos.

Just a suggestion but if nighttime or crosswinds just rotate to the landing attitude (~+5 degrees) and wait for it to land. Too often people try to grease it on this plane doesnt respond well to that. Scott I agree I use full flaps for all landing except crosswinds greather than 12-15 knots. The flaps on these are pretty ineffective as it is.

Jerry, did you install a Davtron M803?

I'm exactly with you Jim. No wonder ourt planes true within 1 knot of each other. I do use both ASL Camguard and Corrosion-X as well.

Overall Craig, from seeing your 201 at Oshkosh you have a really, really nice machine. Worse problems to have I suppose.

1977 M20J has two Buss F-01 fuses mounted under two tiny gray screw caps in the dimmer. look at them.