Sabremech

I’ve been making and selling these tools for quite some time! A Googke search would have probably found them. The Johnson bar can also get bent by being kicked out of the uplock while at cruise by back seat passengers. When it slams into the instrument panel, it can bend it. Do this a few times on a high time airframe and I’m not surprised you found what you did. David

It’s still going to happen! I’ve just been extremely busy with the full time job which I’ll be retiring from in January. After 40 years, I’m going to be done with being on call 24/7 /365 and worrying when I’ll get the call that one of my airplanes is broken somewhere. I’ve moved to the UP, Michigan, last April and have been commuting for work to Waukegan IL Fridays and Mondays. Lots of driving. I did have a conversation with the composite shop and we’re still good there as they have people who can make molds! I’m to far into it with the research and money spent to walk away. What I need is time which will be happening soon. Thanks, David

I can get that for you. David

Hello Igor_U, Does the manual covet the early M20? Prior to the A? Thanks, David

I don’t think we’ll lose much value. These New LSA’s will likely cost $300 -$500K and with a shrinking customer base, not likely to impact our birds.

I’m at OSH now and here through Saturday. Wouldn’t miss it as I’ve been going 23 years now, but I’m only 2 hours drive from Aviation Mecca! You might not want to come Don as it drains your wallet! David

Look for the A2295-5P as that should include the backplate. You’ll also need the installation kit. I don’t think your spinner will fit the backplate. I purchased 2 spinner assemblies from Hartzell a few years ago. They weren’t terribly expensive at that time but don’t know what they are currently. Thanks, David

I think the inter cylinder baffle is there. It’s in the picture with the OP’s finger. Look back behind the homemade divider. As for RTV on the exhaust gasket, just did that with a new exhaust on a J model. Can’t hurt and I’ve had issues in the past with the anti blow out gaskets. David

The wood wing is really not that hard to inspect. That was the key factor as to whether this airplane would fly again or be parted out. My 56 still had the original landing gear shocks installed and the nose pucks were shot. The engine mounts were sagging a lot and I was shocked at the price for replacements. I have all new instruments from a friends C model as he upgraded to glass. So at least I’ll move up to the 80’s for the panel. Getting back going on mine now. I’m looking forward t flying this one and comparing it to my friends C. David

Definitely home made and not stock.

As Hammdo said, I have a 56 M20 that I’m bringing back to airworthy. I don’t think it really matters if it’s a wood wing or aluminum for maintainability in the near future. The mechanic shortage is fast approaching. I’ll be retiring from full time in January to pursue things that are fun to me. If you’re considering purchasing an airplane, experimental may be the way going forward. David

This spinner and bulkhead were part of the ARI enclosure STC on my airplane. Here’s a screen shot from Aero Resources Inc data I found online. Maybe this will help you as I’m not sure if ARI is still in business now. David

Assembly P/N is A2295-5P. Spinner P/N is C-3532-22P and bulkhead is C2294-11P. I had this on my C with the Hartzell prop and ARI cowl enclosure. It’s the same diameter as the J spinner you have but the bulkhead mounts to the prop hub and not the flywheel. Much beefier part and not likely to crack.

There is another spinner and backplate you can run with the ARI enclosure. I’ll get the P/N’s later this afternoon. David

That would be @takair who did the step!

This video is so poorly done. I don’t think this is going to help their cause. David

Here’s a few photos of the area you’re interested in with the Vans baffling. You won’t be able to fit your air intake like I did unless you change the spinner and get more room. It would be much easier to do yours with just adapting the baffling.

That would be easy to adapt to with keeping the stock intake of the E cowling. I used the Vans composite induction for the IO engine and adapted it to fit inside my cowling mod. For yours, simply leave your lower cowling on and use some tag board to fit the ramps to your lower cowling with the LASAR enclosure, leaving yourself at least a 3/4 inch gap between the ramp edge and the cowling. The cowl seal will take up this gap and keep the baffling from contacting the cowling during engine start and shutdown. Quite simple to do. David

I’ve used the Vans BAF-360 kit for the 180 hp Mooney and the BAF-8-IO360 kit for the 200 hp Mooney. David

It’s entirely possible and wasn’t too difficult to get a 337 for. I used VAN’s baffles and slightly modified them at cylinders 1 & 2 because they weren’t quite large enough to fit our cowls. David

No issues that they admit.

So what’s the explanation now for the issues being observed?

Here’s the panel stripped on the 93J model. David

On a 1993 J model I take care of, I stripped the paint off of the panel above the tailpipe. On this airplane it is stainless steel and the paint was burned and peeling. Nice and clean just being stainless. David

Apparently my donation that allowed me additional photo space has expired. Will need to make a new donation to be able to post photos again. The spring looks like mine.