Clarence

Let me get this right, we have people complaining about an AD and S/B which take a half hour to ensure the safety of your airplane. I would suggest that those who don't want to comply with the AD ask the FAA for an alternate means of compliance, and here it is: " remove the three passenger seats from the aircraft and return them to Mooney." In this way the only person at risk is the pilot. Once you fill out the compliance card Mooney can return the seats. In reality it costs many many thousands of dollars to own and operate our aircraft, will $50.00 really break any of us? Move on and be thankful no one was injured. Clarence Beintema Tri-City Aero MSC

I'm curious how many owners have complied with all factory service bulletins and service instructions? With us being up to only S/B 314A and S/I 118 its not really a huge task. Clarence

Looks like time for a more thorough inspection program on the exhaust system. Clarence

As a Mooney service center we will provide a electronic copy to any client who wants one with their completed annual. For anyone else ordering a reasonable amount of parts we provide a copy as well, it saves me doing the parts research for them. I would say that if your A&P or shop is charging a market rate, they should be able to cover the manuals. Clarence

I have to un-subscribe, this thread it just gotten too long..... Clarence

A good friend of mine flew his N/A RV6 to just over FL260 for a new Canadian altitude records many years ago. Have you ever looked at how small those wings are? Clarence

Hi Marty I just saw your posting and see that you made it home. I would suggest removing the cowls for an inspection of the new engine installation. A blown or loose exhaust gasket can cause a high CHT reading, evidence would be grey/white soot on the lower spark plug area If there was an increase in EGT first followed by an increase in CHT it could be a partially blocked injector. Remeber that everything was replaced or overhauled firewall forward with the new engine. It is possible that something has dislodged and blocked a nozzle. A small partical from a hose is all that would be needed to clog the nozzle. The nozzle is easily removed to check, call me or email me and I'll talk you through it. Clarence

Quote: jwilkins You did a nice job on the arm. A lot of thought and engineering went into the strap. Just to anyone else thinking about doing the same or similar, you should understand going into this that this does NOT meet the FAA criteria for owner supplied or owner fabricated parts, and, even when you do meet the criteria for owner fabricated parts, they are supposed to be installed by a licensed mechanic. If you have any questions read this article: http://150cessna.tripod.com/parts.html If you put a new OEM arm or a used serviceabe arm on as a replacement, done properly, no one would ever know that the part was replaced, so there would be no reason for anyone to look for a logbook entry. With a non standard part, it's pretty easy to see and might raise a question. Great job, nice looking part, but I'd put the OEM factory part back on if you ever decide to sell the plane. Most of us who care for our aircraft and take care of them tend to drift into some grey areas of owner maintainence. I'm really not tryng to pick on a very well done job, but this is posted where other people reading it might not completly understand the regulations behind 'owner fabricated parts'. Flame away if you choose, but let's provide the 'rest of the story' to people who might otherwise not know the regulations. Jim

Quote: mooneym20d Here's my recent experience. I brought my 1971 M20E into Flight Level Aviation (An authorized Mooney Service center) located at KOWD, Norwood, MA. I had a left tank leak. I told them I was quoted between $8000 - $10000 to completely strip and reseal both tanks. I was clear that any price above this would be unacceptable and I would be going to AirMods and Repair in NJ. I also elected to do only the leaky tank and asked that the price be between $4000 - $5000. The manager assured me that the tank would be done professionally and in a timely manner and at the cost we discussed. He said he had a "tank guy" in house. I dropped the plane off at the specified time and went to check on the status four days later. Nothing had been done. I was clearly upset and the manager was unsympathetic to my concerns, but, he assured me it would get done. I also had some work done on the cowl flaps (they wouldn't stay closed) and a vaccum gage problem. After two weeks, I figured they should've be done by then. Not even close. The strip job was "impossible" to them. They discovered some surface corrosion in the tank and the sealant was not coming off. I became concerned because I spoke with AirMods and Wilmar and they said, "If done right, the longest it should take to strip one tank is 5 days." I used this as a benchmark to check their work. I also mentioned the quote and he assured me it would not come in over budget. Long story, short - I got screwed! After a month, I picked up the plane, but they didn't have a bill ready for me. I was suspicious. When I got the bill, It was $9800. I was shocked. The amount of sealant in the tank was double the amount necessary and sloppy. It was splattered everywhere. They broke a push to talk switch, didn't install my pull ring for the fuel selector drain, the cowl flaps were worse (needed re-rigging, not a new spring and washers as they had said), didn't install interior panels correctly. And, for the icing on the cake, the sump drain had been sealed so I couldn't sample fuel from the tank they sealed. I paid the $7500 thus far. I will not pay them more. I would stay away from this shop.

Byron, Wouldn't a current maitenance manual be far more valuable than a current IPC? Clarence

Ned, Were the gear and the flaps up? http://groundspeedrecords.com/records/record%20light%20Mooney%20M20E%20202kts.htm

John, A great idea, could we also include a section on customers/ owners who are a really "Special" in both ways? Clarence

from the type certificate: 206. .......One, Nose Wheel, 4-Ply Rating tire (a) 5.00-5, Type III w/ regular tube ................................................................... 7 lbs. ....................... See Note 8. Clarence

Hi Seth, Do you still have the pump? Clarence

There were 355 Bravos built according serial numbers in the type certificate Clarence

I just check and I do have the duct in stock, p/n 600064-000. Date stamped on it is 2Q10 Rev. H Who ever needs it can email me at: service@tricityaero.com. I'm not sure what the pricing on it is but it will be more than in the US. It just reflects the shipping and customs cost I have to pay from Mooney in the US to Canada. Clarence

Check out the Mooney S/B on fuel cap "O" ring: http://www.mooney.com/images/pdfs/sb-pdf/sbm20-229a.pdf Clarence

Quote: joenut If I knew 250 hours ago what I know now I would have had it taken out during the OH. Had the place less than 10 hours before OH due to prop strike. Long story, but airport manager baiscally said, "Oops, yeah they did pipe work there a while back..." as he looked at my nosewheel sunk 1/2 way into the turf on a rainy day. So the prop was OH, balanced, etc just 250 hours ago. Would it drift that fast? And yeah, the bracket is a constant fix in the plane. It's be welded so many time I don't know how much original metal is left on it.

I think that I may have a duct in my inventory for a carburetor Mooney, I'll check tomorrow. Clarence Tri-City Aero

Run Forest Run!!! From the one I've seen you would be better off just sending them your log books for an entry and leaving the engine in the plane, then again even the log book entry was bogus. I don't see how they can overhaul an engine and meet the requirements of Lycoming S/B 240 at what they are charging Clarence

Hi Byron, They are made of fibreglass. I installed the kits from LASAR Clarence

Here is the link to Mooney S/I M20-116 covering 406 ELT in Mooney airframes: http://www.mooney.com/images/pdfs/si-pdf/m20-116.pdfc Installing the antenna in the dorsal fairing althiugh not impossible would mean a lot of work. Both left and right tail fairings would have to be drilled off. Then the drosal fairing would have to be drilled off, old antenna removed, new installed and everything re-installed and painted. Alot of work for a knot or two. I did mine before installing all of the fairings the first time. Clarence

You don't say the serial number of your aircraft but you have to eliminate fuel supply side of things first.. This should be easy and cheap to do, fuel vents as mentioned open and unobstructed, fuel pick ups (s/b M20-207) fuel selector valve, fuel gascolator, fuel boost pump, Dukes fuel pump out let filter ( AD 80-12-03 and S/B M20-222) This filter does not have a service requirement, most that I have seen have never been service since they were installed. Engine fuel hoses in the engine compartment checked or replaced. After this it is into the engine compartment for more expensive parts, aside from the finger sreen in the servo there is little you can do other than remove it for testing/ repair, send the flow divider as well. I had a similar issue on my first E model, a major power reduction on take off. It was an internal failure in the servo, one of the stems on a diaphram was bent and sticking, likely caused by a backfire through the servo. Good luck, Clarence

I guess I should have been more clear in posting my reply. My 1966 E model has all of the windows held in with countersunk 100 degree countersunk screws, not 82 or 90 which are industrial angles. In this vintage Mooney dimpled the skins and coutersunk the plexiglass to accept the screw and dimpled skin, unlike later versions where most exterior screws are round or pan head style and are some what slower, and still later version where the windows are held in place with clips on the inside of the window. I used MS 24693 series srcews which are the replacement for the old AN507 with just engough torque to keep them from spinning. Over torquing distorts the skin and streesses the plexiglass. The hole in the plexiglass is a few number drill sizes larger than the screw shank, to allow clearence for the screw shank, most cracks I have seen in 29 years fixing airplanes are caused by screw holes with too little clearence. I have also reamed the holes after drilling, this leaves a perfectly smooth hole with less chance of cracking from jagged edges. The windows were reinstalled using PRC sealant per S/B M20-208B not silicone. Silicone is good for sealing bathtubs and in some versions changing the shape of the human body. The real mod was maching a step in the edge of all windows, this was for appearence and smoothness of the airframe. I beleive it helps with speed. After every mod I have done I fly against a buddies very fast Comanche 250. He can still beat me but has to work harder with each successive mod. My goal is to match his speed on 50 less HP. Clarence

Hi Scott I replaced all of my side windows with solar grey 1/4" thick. I machined a step in the edge of the widows so that they now fit flush with the exterior skin. It was alot of work but the effect is quite nice. I used PRC window sealant as per the Maintenance manual. It is a bit messy and will take 2 people to install them if yours are held in with screws and nuts. All of my skins were dimple counter sunk so I had to machine countersink the window to accept the dimpled skin and screw I found that drilling the window is easier when I used Johnson paste floor wax to lubricate the drill bits and counter sinks and reamers. Good luck, Clarence