C-FRJI

This is a homemade Johnson bar boot. It’s made of blue deer skin that I got on eBay. I built a wooden makeup of the retraction mechanism and tinkered with a canvas pattern...then made the leather copy.

I went to one of these. Price is Canadian dollars...don’t panic. also a bit cheaper on line from the factory.

Ok.....I feel much better...NOW!

Same here. Carb heat makes the engine run rough...lean a bit. No prob.

Lasar probably stocks the original equipment. Best place to start we you need parts. I just had my flap pump overhauled with one of their seal kits. Great service!

I’ve heard of people using a sock!

My original one was a stretchy loose weave thing. Too soiled and rotten to determine color. I removed it years ago and put in a temporary sleeve. when I had more time I took measurements and built a wood mock-up with a plastic tube for the J Bar. There is a bend at the bottom and the angles are tricky. the boot slides on the bar and also flexes a bit. I used a cloth pattern to rough out a design, but still had adjustments with the leather. My wife did the sewing on a regular sewing machine. Some other designs I have seen are just a tube sewn to a flat piece. I think that is where you get problems when you retract the gear. Solution seems to be the slack required to accommodate the bend in the bar has to tuck into the hole in the floor when the gear is down. Also I had to remove a borrow strip of the carpet that covers the wheel well to make a bit more space for the boot. I guess I was looking for a puzzle to solve.

I believe the original was cloth. The material has to be thin and pliable to fit the space and not bind. That’s why I went to thin deer skin. I had a slighter thicker piece but it was too thick. i wanted leather to match the leather seats. I know it sounds picky...but ...it’s a Mooney!

Too late now. Deer skin, Cost $14.00 plus some play time.

Too late now. Deer skin, Cost $14.00 plus some play time.

I’ve heard of fitting probs on the blogs. Are they now available in colours? Last I heard, black only.

Yes....I still drop by. 64 M20C ser. 2777

I made one out of blue deer hide that I found on eBay. The thickness was advertised as .75 mm, but that must be a compressed measurement. I made a mock-up of the Johnson Bar and floor area. Photo attached...

I used aluminum

There are two kits from Aircraft Spruce. Use the approved one. The bulbs are different. Changing light bulbs is as legal as changing tires and oil. Make the log entry yourself.

I have a set on my C. Super bright! Would not be without them!

Anyone know of a good overhaul shop? I have a couple of instruments that have issues and AQI has ignored my emails.

64 C model: ARI nose, flap, aileron seals, tail mods. 4500' 2500rpm 25 mp. 50 degree ROP 158kts.

I was going through GE 4522 bulbs about once a year. I added a very thin rubber faced aluminum mounting ring to the installation. I have two 4522 bulbs on the shelf and the old one won't die.it has been four years! (I fly 80-100 hours a year) I'd like to switch to LED....but....

I have a 64 C, and replaced the headliner with one an upholsterer fabricated from light grey leather. The lightweight leather is eay to install and resists wrinkling that you find in other materials.

I have the NavStrobe Sextant kit. Works great! Much brighter than original and no issues.

I have couple of spare caps. Two older ones for a C or E and one that is for the reduced opening. If you still need a cap, email me at barry.franklin@sympatico.ca Cheers, Barry