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Piloto

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Everything posted by Piloto

  1. Needs lubrication, specially at the tail spring rods. Clean first the rods with contact cleaner and then lubricate them. If the airplane is left outside they need to be cleaned and lubricated more often. José
  2. A good way to check leaks on the caps area is: Have someone blow air by mouth into the tank vent. Spray a bubble detergent like SD-20 around the cap perimeter and check for bubbles. If after replacing the caps O rings you still have bubbles you may have a leak in between the cap adapter ring and the skin. This leak occurs when the adapter ring is rusted thru. You can either replace the ring or apply sealant from the inside. Also remove the drain valve to insure the tank is water free, José
  3. Quote: JimR http://goliath.ecnext.com/coms2/gi_0199-6599257/Fuel-bladder-leaks-why-repairs.html
  4. Quote: KSMooniac In my instance, we were looking at ~680 lbs of people and 65 lbs of bags. 450 NM IFR at normal cruise speeds...not super-economy cruise at 120 KTAS. To be fair, an Ovation couldn't do that mission at normal Ovation speeds either...I think an Ovation would have to throttle down to 201 speed and fuel burn to carry that load in one trip, and maybe then it might not still be possible. That is my biggest single complaint about the modern Mooneys (and every other brand for that matter)...they cannot carry 4 adults and some baggage any reasonable distance at normal cruise.
  5. Quote: GeorgePerry CONUS flights...not an issue. OCONUS, yep that extra hundred miles might be worth something
  6. Typical Mooney owners and others don't fly for more than three hours but they fly to remote fields were there is no AVGAS for refueling for the return trip. This is common in the Bahamas, Bermuda, Canada, Europe and South America. Having that extra fuel onboard saves significant time or makes the mission possible. Like I always say better to pee on your pants than having to swim that extra mile, either way you are going to get wet. José
  7. Quote: GeorgePerry This is just not true...An opinion, yes, a fact with regards to market-wide resale value, it is not. Just so I’ve got the record straight...I don’t mind opinions that challenge or differ from mine, in fact I like hearing opinions that are contrary to mine. Often times a different perspective will present beneficial insights. A blanket statement saying the Bladder equipped Mooney’s have lower resale values is completely inaccurate and not based on any kind of market analysis. Yes, some potential buyers might prefer factory tanks over bladders...that is surely true. Conversely, some potential buyers (like the one typing) see “added” value to a Mooney with O&N’s. To state as “fact” that a Mooney that has never had a reseal, is potentially worth more than one with bladders is simply incorrect and misleading. George, I never said that will have a lower resale value. I am sure that for some it is an added value. It all depends what the buyer plans to do with the plane. Some may prefer the wet tanks if they plan to add long range tanks. Most Missile conversions have them. Others may prefer the bladders if they feel more confident with them. The appeal is different for each prospective buyer. José
  8. Another point to consider is the resale appeal when bladders are installed. A friend of mine has a 1977 201 with 54 gals bladders and he is happy with them. Lost his medicals and now is selling his plane. Potential buyers has turn down on purchase because of the bladders lower fuel capacity. Another buyer wanted to do the Missile (300HP) conversion on it and add long range tanks but found out that the Monroy tanks are incompatible with the bladders. José
  9. George, I think this survey will show an unfair disadvantage for the bladders due to the overwhelming majority of Mooneys (over 9000) with wet wing tanks. Models M20K and later has no bladder options and these represents a big chunk of the total. Theses models because they are newer will show less leak problems than the older ones. To be more fair the survey should be limited to those models (M20C - M20J) that the O&N product applies to. José
  10. I admit having no experience with O&N bladders in particular. My experience with bladders has been at Boeing and United Airlines MRO in San Francisco. Combat aircraft employs self sealing type bladders to keep the tanks from leaking when under fire. Are the O&N bullet proof? Maybe some Mooneys are getting shot by discontent wives and thats why the leak. If the concept of bladders was that good how come Mooney or any of the A/C manufacturers would not use them? Bladder moisture trapping was an annoying problem on the 707 due to condensation from high altitude. We had to drill additional drain holes to bleed the water out. Some confused the water drain for fuel leaks. One can of stock sealant will fix a leak on a wide range of aircraft but one stock bladder will only fix one section of the wing on that particular aircraft. This is a very important issue for the parts stockings at the MROs. On the other hand if you do not want to mess with MEK, sealant, brushes, gloves and rags then bladders are for you. José
  11. Quote: GeorgePerry I have to admit that I chuckle a little every time I hear folks talk about how great it was to get leak after leak repaired (usually after a reseal). I'm not sure why anyone would go through the pain, expense and hassle of a reseal when a product as great as the O&N Bladders is on the market. To each-his-own, I suppose. http://www.onaircraft.com/Mooney.htm
  12. The idle mixture setting is too lean. On idle you should be able to see a slight increase in RPM when pulling the mixture. If there is no increase the idle mixture is too lean. It is possible that the the fuel control unit needs cleaning. José
  13. Most likely what is needed is to clean and lubricate the vane switch rather than bending it. As time goes by dirt deposits can increase the sensor force required to activate the switch. Try contact cleaner and moving the vane several times to clear the deposits. José
  14. Quote: Mooney13 Thanks José, Where is the computer located on a Mooney...is it the actualy system behind the switches or is it somewhere else? thanks for the info
  15. The problem is either related to just cleaning the connectors contacts or tightening/replacing the servos clutch. First clean all the connectors contacts with contact cleaner. Remove the A/P computer from its tray and spray contact cleaner on the contacts. Reinstall computer Check the the servo clutches: 1. On the ground engage the autopilot on HDG mode. 2. Try to override the autopilot with the yoke on pitch and roll axis. 3. If minimum force is required to override the respective servo of that axis needs to be adjusted Fly the plane: 1. Set the AP to HDG only 2. If the plane changes pitch or roll by itself but the gyro indication appears to be correct then the attitude gyro gimbal contacts need to be cleaned. 3. To clean the ATT gyro gimbal contacts remove the little flat cover on the back of the unit. Spray contact cleaner into the shaft and hair contacts. Replace cover. 4. If the attitude is good but the heading is erratic then the HDG gimbal contacts needs to be cleaned. This requires removing the whole gyro from its case. Spray contact cleaner on the gimbal contacts. These are delicate instruments and should only be disassembled in a dust free environment. My experience with the Century autopilot has been very good. The above procedure is usually required every 1500 to 2000 hrs of operation. José
  16. Quote: RobertoTohme Now that you mention it, it's been stupid hot in ELP the last few weeks and I always taxi with lights on even on daytime...
  17. Check to see if it leaks when it is running. A good leak check of the fuel systems follows (engine off): 1. Set mixture rich and open throttle. 2. Turn electric pump on. 3. Close mixture and throttle. 4. Turn electric pump off. 5. Verify you still have fuel pressure one minute after turning pump off. If pressure drops to zero you have a leak in the system. Check fuel lines, engine fuel pump, electric pump and carburator float check valve. José
  18. Quote: sabwjz Well I fixed the problem. I tweaked the outboard flap up stops and the plane flys great hands off. Thanks for the info.
  19. Alternator most stress is at night while taxing. The landing lights current draw combined with minimum air flow can cause overheating, specially during summer. Check the rear of the alternator to insure you have good cooloing outflow. I think you probably got a defective alternator anyway. José
  20. Must likely the rotor winding is shorted to ground. This happens when there is insufficient cooling to the alternator. Check the alternator cooling baffles so it does not happens with the new one. José
  21. Don't forget the termite inspections and treatment by a termite expert. A friend of mine lost one to termites. José
  22. On the outboard side of the left and right flap attach points there is a set screw for adjusting the flap retracted position. If the plane rolls left you can trim the left flap down or the right flap up (no more than two turns). To decide which flap to adjust align the ailerons with the wing and see which flap would come closer to aileron alignment. Do not bend the rudder surface. Rudder alignment is done at the alieron/rudder connecting rod underneath the pilot floor. José
  23. Congratulations on your trip Dave. The video looks nice but maybe too much music, I prefer engine roar and radio chat. On my crossings with the TLS I was able to get 165kts at 13gph at 18000 feet. With the Ovation 160kts at 10gph at 17000 feet. With the M20J 150kts at 9gph at 14000 feet. All on the ROP and at mid weights. Great airplanes for this kind of trips. José
  24. Try an auto parts store by matching the light bulb. BTW when I had my old M20C I replaced the overhead flood lights with panel mounted post lights. One problem with the flood lights is that you loose illumination (shadow)of the airspeed indicator when you move your head forward just when you are on final. José
  25. Go with the aluminum. It less prone to internal corrosion and lighter in weight. I have a 15 cu-ft that is compact enough to be placed in between the rear seats with Velcro strips. The valve is forward so it is easy for me to open and close it. I pay $18 at a Scuba dive shop for oxygen fill up. José
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