KSMooniac

We took my plane 2.0 hours for my pre-buy and did an out-n-back the same day. In this market I agree that the seller should have no problem going an hour away.

Bodie, I don't think it will continue to track a heading bug from the DG in the event of a DG or vacuum failure. At that point, you should engage a CDI track or better yet GPSS if you are so equipped. Worst case, you could engage the wing leveler to hold it steady and make periodic corrections to the heading manually. I'm not sure where the static pick-up is for the altitude hold...a static failure would be so rare I would not worry about it. The only problem I've had with mine is after the plane has been sitting in a good rain storm...moisture in the static system makes my altitude hold a bit wonky, so be sure to drain the static system thoroughly if it has been outside in the rain. Flying thru rain or clouds doesn't seem to affect mine.

I consider a pulse oximeter as mandatory so you can (a) actually know your O2 saturation levels and ( maximize the duration of the O2.

http://mooneyspace.org/index.cfm?page=1&mainaction=posts&forumid=2&threadid=274 I plan to send my DG to Bob Bramble pretty soon.

José, my approach will be to develop some new interface brackets between the seat back and the tubular frame, and show equivalent strength for the crash condition of baggage hitting the seat back. It should be pretty straight-forward. The former owner of my plane (he moved up to an M20R) owns a machine shop and will help me with the fabrication once I get the design & analysis complete.

Well, unfortunately I have not chased this project through completion yet. I have a good idea of what I'm going to do, but need to draw up some parts and get them fabricated. I took my rear seat out earlier this year and made some measurements of everything and now just need to put aside some time to do it. At this rate it is going to be a winter project, I'm afraid. I think getting an STC approval will be fairly straightforward. My hope is that I can create a kit that will sell for a few hundred bucks that will enable the seat to fold down quickly and easily without the need for tools or recovering the seat. This will be substantially cheaper than retrofitting later model Mooney seats.

I agree with Jim. A quality job will completely strip the paint down to bare aluminum, find & correct any corrosion, and then alodine the aluminum for better protection and paint adhesion. Then comes the primer and color coats. If you are really worried about the lap joints, then you could always follow-up with an internal corrosion treatment like Corrosion-X or Boeshield or whatever you like. Those materials are sprayed/fogged inside the structure, and they will coat the airframe and leech into the joints for maximum protection.

Definitely get the maintenance and parts manuals as a first step. If your A&P is willing, then you might start out doing some MX activities as owner-assist so you can help and learn at the same time. Having said that, the oil change is pretty straight-forward. I'd recommend getting an oil filter torque wrench because there isn't a lot of room back there for a conventional torque wrench and socket. You should also get an oil filter cutter for inpsection of the contents. You'll also need safety wire and safety wire pliers. The trickiest part is removing the filter without making a mess. Currently I'm using an old oil container cut in half length-wise, and slip it under the filter to catch the oil. You'll see what I mean once you give it a try. Removing the lower cowl is pretty simple, but it helps to have an extra set of hands to wrestle it on and off without scratching the paint. If you think you'll enjoy doing such work, then you might consider getting some spark plug tools (gapper, cleaner, etc) and a box of copper washers when you order the oil tools.

CONGRATS! Nice to get it "wet" on your first day too!

Jim, my baby is getting the accent colors painted right now and will be done early next week. I'm getting very anxious! It is time to start trying to find a ride to the shop since I have a date...

The dorsal + tail mods look familiar...my 201 just got those a couple of weeks ago!

Much better! Looks good. What cowl mod is that?

Aaron, your last two posts have tiny pics...can you re-size please? Cowl pictures are nice and big.

My '77 J also has just the wingtip strobes. They can be seen from all angles around the plane, so it is legal.

I'd agree with Roberto...and an Eagle would make a great candidate for a glass upgrade today since they weren't as "loaded" as the Ovations in the same years. So, less to remove and/or integrate with a new Aspen, Garmin or other PFD/MFD combo.

I would also say the Ovation is smoother, but perhaps the J you flew had something amiss. The prop and engine mounts could need some attention. My J is pretty darn smooth, and I certainly can't see the panel vibrating! You might try to get a ride in another example and see if it will meet your criteria. If the budget (both initial and operating) supports it, an Ovation is hard to beat, though! The IO-550 engine is a real jewel, but you'll have to feed it more fuel of course, and have 2 extra jugs and 4 extra plugs to maintain vs. the IO-360. I consider a quality set of ANR headsets as required equipment too. It sure helps with the fatigue aspect of long XC flying.

Are you wanting complete paperless chart solution, or just plates? I'm using a CTL Classmate netbook/convertible tablet, but mainly for backup. I print the approach plates I plan to use, and carry the CTL for diversions. I still use (and love) the Airchart atlases for nav charts. Very cost effective and easy. I do not mount the CTL either...it just waits in the bag for bullpen duty.

Oh, I forgot to mention...if you and/or your mechanic don't have access to the rigging boards, you can check the installation of the Aspen (or any TC) by jacking up the plane and leveling it per the maintenance manual. Once you get it completely level (front-to-back and wingtip-to-wingtip) then check the slip/skid indicator and the ball should be centered. I'm not sure how the Aspen displays, it though. If the instrument shows a slip, then you have a mounting problem with either the instrument or the entire panel.