eaglebkh

I've been through 2 annuals... First was 7 weeks and the second was 3 weeks. First annual: would have been done in 1 week, but the last item to inspect was the engine mount, and sure enought it had a crack . We ordered another mount (~1 week shipping) and then discovered it wasn't the correct mount (~2 weeks to return and receive correct one). Then it was about 2 more weeks to remove and remount the engine. Second annual: Had to overhaul the prop. Most of the 3 weeks was consumed by waiting on the prop to get sent off and returned from overhaul shop. The only mechanic on my field is part-time and non-MSC. He has a life-time of experience including Mooneys, and believes a non-squak annual on my plane should be done in less than a week, though I don't know of many who have experienced one of those...

Just curious, how do those of you with the PC system allow someone in the right seat manipulate the controls (i.e. during dual time for unusual attitude recovery, IPC, BFR, etc.)? Strap down the interupt switch?

Quote: rob Who did your Aspen install? I'm considering one on a 65E and am not too far from you...

Quote: DrZGard I'd love to have a yoke button for autopilot disconnect, the speedbrakes, PTT and trim if the autopilot ever gets upgraded. Zane

Quote: N207LS I like all the suggestions and ideas here. There are a few that I will add to my shutdown list (like mag check, and close the vents), but a couple of others that I do and have on my shutdown list is to set the trim for takeoff, DG to Mag Compass, and AI to level. This means that when I get in the plane, all is set and should just be checked, instead of having to be adjusted prior to takeoff. Aaron

Alan, Well...that last post was from Me (Mooney 13) so yes, there is obviously some bugs goign on.... Joe

Alan, We didn't get too much into any detail, Seems he did not know much about that plane other than it has not been flying much recently, but said it seemed like a good deal. Jim pretty much agreed with me (and you) that it was a shame that the owner didn't ever just replace those rather inexpensive panels...It's not a big deal, but if oyu were going to have a non-pilot go for a spin, they might be on pins and needles after seeing them, not knowing much about planes... I think Jim will be a good fit for a pre buy.. I really felt like he was a good guy and would want to make sure things are safe. Ironically, I spent a week with some engine issues in your neck of the woods bringing my Mooney back from IL...Good Ol' Greeley (I can still smell that place Bootom line.. I would be interested in it if I had not bought mine only 10 months ago...It loks like a good waxing and some TLC, it's going to be a beauty... Also, I have a great ferry pilot that actually brought my Mooney from Greeley to Seattle if you end up needing one, let me know..He's very reasonable... and lives in the northwest Good luck! Joe aka. Mooney13 .....not sure what is going on with the forum...

Hopefully he was unconsious all the way down and didn't have to experience the crash. The guy showing the flight profile mentioned the plane was pressurized and possibly lost cabin pressure. The media always has to give their uneducated analysis...

Same as George, however before all of that, during the taxi to the hangar, I do a quick mag check at idle power- no need to wait until the next flight to discover a dead mag. Of course, I still do the mag check as part of the run-up before departure. My mechanic taught me this after I had a dead mag once and cancelled a flight. This is especially useful on trips, so that if there is a dead mag or fouled plug, you can have it fixed while you're attending to other business instead of waiting until the return flight to discover these things.

Wow, you're going to almost double your initial investment with all those mods... I'd like to get the 201 windscreen on mine as well, but the plane has fresh paint (courtesy of previous owner) and I don't want to mess it up. Do you have 2 sets of nav lights?

Is there a way you can post the links to the actual videos? When I click on the link it's wanting me to sign in to your account or something...

1. 1964 M20E 2. Current engine (engine #2) is at 900 hrs with a new #4 cylinder at 600 hrs 3. 1st engine made it to 500 hrs (replaced in 1970 with factory reman) So, if you can do the math - my engine is nearly 40 years old with 900 hrs. I know, that's only 23 hours per year on average, but it is running really smoothly with high compressions and slightly higher-than-normal oil burn. This winter I am looking at OH, though, because my mechanic isn't going to sign off on the annual again with a 40-year-old engine and I agree.

Quote: N207LS This is like debating which car is nicer Mercedes S series or a BMW 7 series. Both are great vehicles, but talk to owners of each and they will debate this point all day long (I know because I drive a BMW 7 and it eats the S for lunch on the road in terms of handling and performance). Aaron

Being one that lives on a farm surrounded by open pastures, I would choose to leave the wheels up. Pastures may look smooth from the sky, but the ones around here (North Alabama) can pack some surprises, such as small holes, underground springs, soft soil, and clumps of thick grass. It's rough enough riding a quad around at 20-30 mph, much less a Mooney. I'm going to let the superior design of the rollcage airframe absorb any impacts that result after making a smooth as possible touchdown. Another aspect is this: the shorter the stopping distance, the less time you are "along for the ride", because I would imagine the airplane is not very controllable - wheels up or down. This is only to a certain extent though, because you don't want to come to an immediate stop, as could be the case with the wheels down and the gear snags something. With the wheels up, the weight of the plane is distributed more evenly onto the terrain, which to me sounds more safe then riding on a tricycle gear.

A random backfire here and there is common in my plane when idling with a hot engine. But it is not loud at all - only slightly louder than the engine/prop. I have not pursued getting it fixed because it is not that bothersome.

Wet wings here. No leaks (i.e. fuel isn't dripping/seaping) but there is usually a strong fuel smell in the plane when topped off or when parked. I also get a good whiff of fuel when the gear is extended in flight or I slow the plane down for approaches/landings.

I wouldn't give up the STEC - couldn't imagine there's much trade-in value given the cost of acquiring an STC for a used STEC (essentailly the same as buying a new STEC). Does the A/P not work, or does it just need a few additional components to get it functioning? Also, what about keeping your vacuum AI and forgetting the standby electric? I know you mentioned the quote was without the standby elec, but you'll already have an elec AI when you pop in the G500. That way your AI's won't be dependent on the same power source. Yeah, I'd have to ditch the GDL69 as well and use the money to buy a 496 or 696. But heck, a G500 and a 696... You're going to come down with a bad case of TMDS (Too Much Display Syndrome)...

How much speed increase does the brake caliper reversal provide?

Fix it! Thanks...

Scott, see new topic in "General" forum...

Some of you have asked about my portable A/C unit, so here is some info. I have been very pleased with it's performance and it keeps the airplane quite comfortable in 90+ degree heat. The parts needed are fairly easy to find, though I did not have most of them just lying around the house. Altogether, I spent less than $100 plus about 5-6 hours labor involved. The basic idea is that air is sucked into the cooler and passes over 2 radiators which circulate ice-cold water. In my design, the air is cooled twice: once as it enters the cooler and again as it is blown out. The result is very cold air. Here's the parts list (excluding various things like wiring, screws, glue, ect.): 1. 48 quart Ice Chest (size is up to you, but the more ice, the longer it lasts) 2. Tsunami T-500 bilge pump (from Wal-Mart). 1.8 amps, 5/8" diameter outfeed. If you can find a smaller one with a lower GPH, use it because this one really pumps too much water and melts the ice faster. 3. 2 4" computer fans, 114cfm, 0.9 amps, 12 volts (the CFM is up to you, but you'll want >90) 4. 2 heater cores. I was able to find 2 matching ones on eBay fitting a late 80's Buick/Pontiac/Chevy car, but the important thing is the inlet and outlet diameters - 1/2" works best and fits the tubing I used. 5. Tubing: Vinyl - 4' of 1/2" and 2' of 5/8" (available at Lowe's/Home Depot). I also used a bicycle inner tube for the flexibility - it was a freeby from a co-worker who rides and had a flat. The tire tube is also 1/2" inner diameter - quite convenient. 6. Plumbing hardware: depending on your design, you'll need to reduce the 5/8" outfeed of the bilge pump into 2 separate 1/2" lines going to each heater core (refer to the next photo). I used a 5/8" 'T' fitting, then reduced each line going to the heater cores with a 5/8" to 1/2" fitting. Three 1/2" CPVC elbows were used to help with the bending of the tube as the lid was opened/closed. 18 hose clamps (12 5/8" and 6 3/4"). All of this can be found at Lowe's/HD 7. 2 Grills for the air intake (optional). I used the metal screens from some old speakers. 8. 12 volt battery (optional). I wanted to provide the possibility of using it on cigarette lighter power or battery power. Construction: The hardest part is getting the cooler lid cut into the desired form (see Lid pics) - the Drimmel and utility knife is ideal for this. The lid from my cooler actually had some hollow thicknes (~1-2") which was great for directing and separating the inflow and outflow. Looking at the lid, the air enters the 2 cross-wise inlets and passes over the radiator on the right looking from the front. As the air leaves, it passes over the other radiator and through the round holes. It was necessary to insert a divider in the lid to separate the 2 airflows (not shown). This was done with scrap plastic from the lid after cutting up the lid. The rectangular holes on the bottom are for the radiators (or heater cores). The plumbing is fairly straight-forward with the only tricky part being the tube length/material (see Inside pic). You can experiment around, but here's what I have found works. Using the tire tubing helps prevent blockages that occur when the lid is closed and the excess tubing folds up (hence the CPVC elbows). The length is also important because if the tubing is too long, it will bend and kink when closed, but needs to be long enough to allow the lid to fully open. The CPVC elbows allow the tube to fold without blockage. Each elbow has about 1" of CPVC piping added so that the tire tubing could slide over it like a sleeve. Lastly, don't forget to hose-clamp everything. I'm still working on attaching the radiators to the lid. The current method of silicon and zip ties is not working. I was out of ideas when I reached that phase of the design, but I'm going to have to use some type of brackets. I have had to re-mount the radiators twice in the 1 year I've been using the A/C. Also, the lid needs to be secured from folding back too far and coming off, since the extra weight of the heater cores will cause this to happen. For the wiring, everything is contained in the area to the left of the radiators (previous photo). You'll have to use your own expertise here, as it's hard to explain but easy in theory. I have 2 switches on the outside for the fans and the bilge pump (in case I wanted air but didn't want to circulate the water). The whole system pulls 3.6 amps. Final notes: With 30 lbs of ice, the A/C will deliver ~1.5 hours of cold air and should have no problem holding 40 lbs. I have been instrument training all summer, nearly 2-hour lessons doing only approaches where the airspeed is usually at or below 90kts and close to the ground. The A/C keeps the instructor and myself quite comfortable. An additional 1/4" vinyl tube 7-8' long is handy for syphoning out the water at the end of the flight - makes getting the unit out of the plane much easier... The effectiveness of the A/C can be improved if you build some type of hood of vent to set on top of the fans to direct the air forward. I made one out of cardboard and duct tape (you know it's not a home-built unless those ingredients are present) that just sets on top of the fans and shoots the air forward. Position the A/C in the luggage area with the right side against the pilot side of the plane and the fans will line up just right and blow between everyone's head. The unit does however consume ~1/3 of the luggage volume, but it can always be moved to the back seat if there are no passengers. If you have any questions, just reply or PM me.

I had problems with my roof vent at first because the painter sprayed right over the screen in the vent, reducing the cross-sectional area down to about 50%. So I just cut the screen off. I cruise with the vent wide open, because partially closing it mean less air flow - never experienced "buffeting". I also fly with a home-made air conditioner I constructed out of a cooler, fans, bilge pump and heater cores. Works quite nice - I would never want an installed A/C unit.

Quote: FlyDave Brandon, Have you been able to work the bugs out of your Aspen yet? Thanks,

For my E with to maintain 90kts, there's basically 3 different settings I use for different parts of the approach: Level flight @ 90kts, gear up: 17/2400 Level flight @ 90kts, gear down: 20/2400 Once I've slowed down to 90kts, all descents are made with the gear down, 2500 rpm, and whatever MP to get the desired descent rate (500-1000fpm, no speed brakes).

107mph in my E