Slick Nick

So, what's the resolution you're looking for here? Are you attempting to seek damages from the shop? I think what's done is done, it would be super hard to prove any damage caused was due to their reckless runup anyway. What's the end goal? If it were me, I wouldn't be going back there if that's how they treat customers airplanes.

I just saw you’ve got a Bravo. They sure didn’t do your turbo any favours either with that stunt.

The reason behind the caution is that things heat up at different rates. The block is a huge chunk of cast iron, the pistons are aluminum, most moving parts are steel, cylinders and liners can be different. They are all designed to work best at operation temperature. That’s why the oil and CHT gauges have a green range. As much as there is a maximum, there’s also a minimum. Pushing things too hard can cause clearances to tighten up dangerously and cause damage. I’ve seen a few engines that were pushed too hard when cold, the aluminum pistons expand much faster than the rest of the engine. They can only expand so far before the contact the cylinder walls, and then you’ve got some extensive damage. (Google “collapsed piston” for more.) In addition, when oil is cold, it doesn’t flow as well. It can lead to bearings, journals, etc losing adequate lubrication and before you know it you’ve scuffed a bearing or galled a cam. It happens. Now, I’m not saying it happened in your case, there’s only one way to know for sure and that’s to inspect things. But engines are expensive, you better believe I’d be some kinda pissed if a mechanic ran my engine the way he did yours. I take extreme care to “baby” my engine until it’s up to temp, to have someone undo all of that work in a matter of minutes would have me pretty miffed.

It sucks that the new ones have that chintzy plastic needle. My factory ones are metal.

Running a cold engine to 2000 RPM less than 4 minutes after start is unacceptable. What the hell is your shop doing? Your graphs are very telling.

Does your ALT VOLTS light stop flashing when the GPU is plugged in? I have mine set to 28.0V and it stops flashing when the power is applied. Haven’t paid much attention to the ammmeter, but I have an MSE might be different anyways.

Sounds like it. See Skip’s screenshot above.

No, as I posted my compass is not part of the glareshield. I believe that came in 1993. My one is a ‘’91 model.

I have the pre-compass glareshield on my '91. (compass still on the post.) I put some cheap gaffer tape on the center post to protect it, undo the two screws, and lift up enough to unplug the glareshield lights harness. Then, i sort of "fold" it up in the middle which allows the corners to easily come past the side panels. Super quick and easy. I remove mine probably 6-8 times a year to blow out dust from behind the avionics before I clean the interior and it's proven to be easier the more I do it.

Will you be able to get insurance coverage to act as PIC on an airplane you’ve never flown though? Maybe a call to your insurer is in order.

It should be glued down. 3M Super 77 is the proper adhesive.

I’ll PM you.

Bought this on Amazon. Reversible and super handy. It lives in the plane. Your idea is neat, but I don’t know if I’d like the view with knobs sticking up out of the glareshield.

There’s some pretty empirical evidence out there that this G100UL is nasty stuff and has no place being on the market. Why hasn’t its sale been pulled by the FAA?

Manual cowl flaps? My MSE (J) has manual cowl flaps, there is an intermediate “trail” position about halfway. The flap mechanism sort of cams over in the closed position to suck them up against the fuselage. There is lots of adjustment to be had, perhaps they are just out of rig after your maintenance?

Looks good! How hard was the install? Do they also do the side panel upholstery? Or is that something you had done extra?

Respectfully, you need to be doing a lot more reading about your avionics and how they function. IFR training is not the time to be learning how your avionics work. You should know their functions inside out beforehand. The manuals exist for a reason.

I’ve got the same battery. How did you plug the hole? I’ve long wondered what the most elegant solution would be.

What skip said. You aren’t sure if the audio quality is due to the audio panel itself. How’s the intercom? That KMA24 is basically bomb proof, failures are not common. Could also be as simple as a corroded ground somewhere.

It’s because you have a KMA-24. Not a KMA-24H. The H model has an intercom built in. Since yours is separate, there is a lot more wiring involved. Is there something wrong with it that it needs to be replaced? Your money will be much better spent elsewhere.

If a proper alternative fuel doesn’t exist, or isn’t widely available and compatible with all models, there’s no way they could implement the mandate. Might be for the best. Trying to get rid of leaded avgas is a colossal waste of time and money.

Canada has had privatized ATC for over a decade. I am not a fan. Do what you guys can to stop this from happening in the USA.

The brown T-9088 seal that I had earlier did a great job of sealing when it was new. We did a trip to Arizona last summer where I left the plane outside in 43*C weather for a couple days. The seals couldn’t take it, and had now permanently deformed and compressed, rendering them useless. I do not seem to have this issue with the GeeBee silicone seals. They return to their original shape every single time. The aircraft is super quiet. Removing headsets in cruise and using the speaker / boom mike in cruise is not an issue. The only thing I didn’t like about an inflatable seal was that it didn’t seal unless you were in the aircraft to inflate it. Full disclosure, I park in a heated hangar at home base, but sometimes when we travel, the plane spends the odd night or two outside. That was enough for me to not want to risk it with rainwater getting inside when the seal is deflated. Perhaps the worry is unfounded, I’m not sure how well it still seals even while deflated. A properly installed silicone seal will seal up just as well without the worry of it leaking when deflated. I am very happy with my GeeBee silicone seal.

Ive got his latest iteration of the silicone door seals for baggage and entry door. A bit tricky to install but once you get the hang of it, not bad. Very pleased with them. The old brown T-9088 OEM foam one I had barely lasted a year. I won’t say much about the guy, the only interaction I had with him was a little strange indeed, but the product was good which is all that really mattered.

Aeroshell 15-50 here. No camguard as where I live the climate is extremely dry, and I fly a lot. About 200h a year. Oil changes at every 40-50 hours, and oil analysis comes back exceptionally clean every time. My engine is high time too, I plan to run it well past TBO if all continues to be clean.