dkkim73

It's also just a different mindset to existing within the system, complementary to the VFR world and skillset. There are pilots who fly VFR only who are masterful in many areas (mountain flying comes to mind), but even a beginning IFR pilot in training develops awareness that complements what he or she already knows as a proficient beginning VFR pilot. It's kind of like learning a foreign language or (I would imagine) getting a law degree and never practicing. You "get" the framework and can muster up enough to get by where you need a few phrases. Most of us who fly IFR (and aspire to be better all the time) are VMC most of the time. OTOH there are people who fly mostly VFR and are hell-on-wheels in the backcountry, tailwheel, floats, etc. Lots of places to go with aviation. Instruments is useful for almost all of us who travel with any constraints, and fun for most regardless. D

This resonates. Disruption of routine is huge, esp if you have a workflow that defers it to a later fixed point.

@fsuflyer First, congratulations! That's great. Don't let the "what's next" distract you from appreciating and enjoying your new rating. In my experience, keeping currency and building practical experience and exercising aeronautical decision-making is huge. I agree with the recommendation to immediately start on your instrument rating. You don't have to flog yourself through it, but it will focus your flying and lead naturally to all sorts of benefits. Or just go get some burgers for now. From your handle (profile doesn't list location) I'm thinking you're in Florida. So for plane choices a normally-aspirated and non-FIKI plane is reasonable, so an F could be a wonderful choice (I think, I haven't researched the earlier models extensively... someone else will weigh in authoritatively ). There is a professional broker who's pretty helpful here @Parker_Woodruff, and lots of experience in this pathway. Within the last year or so there is a lot of good advice on early choices, instrument rating, etc. Quick thoughts for now... welcome to Mooneyspace! Take your time learning about all the cool options. From what I've seen, there are a lot of flight hours and lots of type experience on this board. D

@Fly Boomer responding quickly for now: Good question. I have a Flitelite (Classic Plus I think) that I have mounted on an older DC 10-13.4, with the AAA pack on the band. I like it, though the battery pack is cumbersome esp. with the lower Mooney headliner. I couldn't get an answer from the company about what adapter to use for the DC One XP (despite previously good communications), so I looked around and ended up going witha Cejay Engineering model. It's still on its way to me, so no reviews yet. As for the flashlights, that's a lot of great suggestions to dig into above! Need to follow those links. I did see a neck light in passing that might be a good adjunct.

Hi All, Looking for a new modern headlamp. Either a simple strap model or something I can headset mount (or both). Have a number of random units for backpacking and around the house. Looking for anything that: -uses common or robust batteries -lightweight -sane modes for aviation (easy low-light toggle, intuitive settings, not cycling through 7 settings including "night-vision preserving low light" next to "10,000 lumen irregular pulsating tactical disorienting strobe"... I exaggerate, but you know what I mean). I currently am awaiting a new lip light for my newer headset and carry a fingerlight (for real dark flights) and an old A2 (for which it seems difficult to get new real 2-stage bulbs). I'm thinking a lightwight good headlamp might replace a lot of these applications from pre-flight to ice to in-flight. Any thoughts appreciated! David

Was there a paper cover in the foot well?

Thank you! Though not initially intuitive, that makes sense. Appreciate the tip.

@exM20K it sounded like you needed to for the switch/pot function. How did you like the unit when it came back? Did it feel notably newer? Would you ever do it just for sticky/futzy switches and knobs?

I have a G1000 in a 2009 plane, and the buttons sometimes stick in subtle ways. E.g. the flip-flop will bounce you back to the original frequency. 2.5amu seems like a lot to green it up as long as everything works. I'd sometimes wondered about using contact cleaner, but it's a pretty important panel, and you break it you fix it... But I have wondered if the actual construction allows a more limited clean-up. @LANCECASPER I take it those knobs are serviceable from the front? (e.g. cracked or lost, just press-fit a new one on?) Overall I guess I should be happy that things still work pretty well (and screens pretty readable) after 15 yrs.

Interesting PIREP. I had the opposite experience, I called first and had a short timeline. They were very acommodating. It is a mom-and-pop shop, from what I can tell, so that might explain the variability. I did not know about the oil door option. That said, I did get the sense that they would customize if you asked. I just didn't know enough at that point to know what to ask for... ETA: I had got the impression that Bruce's was the higher-pricepoint choice, and it was for what I priced out. I do have a set of their cowl plugs which are great. Also a pitot cover coming apart but it's probably really old, so I just need to get un-lazy and sew it.

Mac's custom covers are very affordable. I use mine only intermittently but it seems solid. Straps with backpacking-style buckles. You could probably tie the loose ends as a backup if needed. Good service and quick turn-time.

Flying out of Osan in an aero club 152 in the 1980s, we once had to do 360s for a U2 inbound. My instructor put me (kid) up to asking the controller to tell us what type aircraft it was... Controller paused, minimally annoyed, "traffic no factor". Saw a few high speed Eagle scrambles to cover the DMZ (banked taxiway, rotating midfield , unrestricted climb) flying out of there... interesting fly on the wall viewpoint. I'm a C152, that's pretty close to the actual weight.

Same here. I'll sometimes take an up-and-out if it's not too high. I think seeing things happen is worth a lot. Got decent bit of ice in returns in summer, was an eye opener though manageable. Talking to young line guys here their school won't let them fly ice and surprisingly little actual. Slowly expanding envelope of ops...

Same here a few months ago. Completely filling the space with RTV is the key. I took the additional advice of a piece of 3M clear repair tape over the top. Good insurance.

Makes sense. I usually run it a minute or two on every flight in summer. Probably should be more deliberate. The dilutional approach makes sense. I'm down there now just below 2. Though I do have some suspicions about the sender. Has anyone tried siphoning from above via the fill hose (snake a line in)? I'm not motivated enough to drop the belly panel and find a way to drain it. Maybe if I had jacks... Probably over thinking this

Ah, the old forced night landing trick... Turn it off if you don't like what you see.

On a recent flight, first in a while to see ice, I ran TKS and saw some patchy areas. So, reading all the threads,I ran the system on the ground (windshield pumps first to prime), them high, then low. Wiped all the leading edges with a soaked rag multiple times. The hardest to assess is the vertical stab, since it's oriented along gravity and the fluid runs down... Then into the empennage boot, so you can't even gauge the drips! Nonetheless, the tail does seem to have a lot of flow as Dan pointed out. Reading also that fluid gets old, I am intentionally running the tank down low. How low do you guys go? If it safe to run the pumps out? (I think the fluid provides some lubrication)

Did you use cyanoacrylate (super glue) or something more specific? Any vacuum technique or just capillary action? David

That is super helpful, thanks Ray! Is the removal/replacement as simple as it looks? I'll check the MM for torque on the screws but maybe it's just feel.

Did you use the rotary pads the same way as with car or other applications? Circular polishing and moving it around? I'm thinking of the admonition to polish linearly when doing things by hand like windshields. I got the Novus kit and was going to try doing the ice light (with masking) but thinking the landing light as well (or instead).

FWIW it is not hard to figure out what your GAMI spread is. See a very thorough method here: https://www.savvyaviation.com/wp-content/uploads/savvy_pdf/Savvy-Flight-Test-Profile-Expanded.pdf

In theory you will get more oxygen so should be able to add fuel and get more power, thus speed. Might even be about to do it LOP. The practical answer would come from someone who's done this exact thing... Did the vendor give you any claims or reference points?

I have wondered about that. Some have opined that the tank sizing is to keep you from being too aggressive or cavalier, but it would not seem to be a bad thing to have an emergency backup. The filler system is open-topped and gravity fed, so I wouldn't imagine it would cause any issue if you added a way to drip fluid into it.

I used to want to put a Mazda RX engine in an RV-7/8 or EZ variant. There is a guy, Tracy something or other, who did this and wrote a book ; interesting read (helpful to speak with, too). Never got around to experimental building but I liked the power to weight. I imagine the failure modes would be less catastrophic than reciprocating. Only had an MX-5 but always like the ease of working on it and the inexpensive documentation.

Yes! I used to plan very carefully near large bodies of water... Or cold water. Glide range of land at all times. The altitude is a great thing and good peace of mind. Including with high terrain. The turbo and FIKI combination offers a lot of buffer...