Jetpilot86

The way I’ve figured out my Monroy works is that 0-22 gallons is the same as without the conversion. My gauge marks are 33 then F(44). The manual says that the amount increases 2 gal per gallon indicated, so 33 = 44 and F ends up being the 59.25 capacity. I’m still sorting how how that translates for the sight gauges on the wings, but I suspect the same rule over 22 applies, and the max of 30 on that gauge is = to 38 gallons. HTH

My technique, in my Bravo, to minimize Red Fin time when leaning is to lean to the Power FF which gets me on the top side of the fin, but close to the fin. Set up the lean finder function, then finish leaning. I’d be surprised if I’m in the Box for 5 seconds and haven’t ever seen CHT’s to be concerned about when I download data. I also like the lean from the lean side method. I’m going to have to remember that the first cylinder to peak from the lean side is the goal. Makes sense, just never thought about it that way.

I’ll have one available by the end of January. 95 Bravo

Mine is a Lycoming Factory OH, they do come with new/OH'd (not sure which, but it comes with one) Turbo's.

Did that last week over GA. Already pricing out the TKS upgrade. The way I prefer to fly my Bravo, it’s needed.

On the East Coast of FL, they are bulldozing T-Hangars to build more Corporate Jet hangars. I just got an offer in either FXE or PMP for a T-hangar for my Bravo at $1260/month. I passed for now as I don't spend much time there in the Summer and am only there for a week or so at a time before flying back out. I hangar in KY for 1/3 of that, and in CO for 1/2.

This. I kept mine out of FL for roughly the first 8 months, just to make sure.

Hopefully, I'll remember to check when I fly her to GGG in a few weeks. But that low, I'd be surprised if I broke 1525 while running my 10 LoP and right at 14gph. My CHT's run warmer than I like, but not the turbo....

I got mine from Great Lakes and had Maxwell install them at my annual.

I've got 8 months or so left on my Lycoming OH on my Bravo.

Me too! My only guess is that mine came with a new turbo and everything is still new at 130 SFOH. I finally got #6 CHT at 370 at 30/2200, but #3 is now the problem child suddenly running 380-385 when it used to run 370-375. That or maybe your high end overhaul is just a beast!

Welcome to my world. I run laps between CO, TX, KY, FL most of the year. I can do 800-1000 mile legs, 6h 30m endurance at a 15gph average, burning 14gph in cruise at 17000'. 30"/2200 and 174ktas, 130kias. That's slightly LoP. If you are doing the FL hops with 3-4 people, you'll be fine with the Bravo, you are not carrying more than 3 hours fuel with that load anyway. I did CO to AZ this summer out of the mountains and it was the boss, the mutt, myself, 100 lbs of luggage and 75gal (5 hours total) of gas for max gross takeoff. I've got the long range tanks, 118gal, and full, it's about 240 lbs of useful load left over when full. I only do 8000' if the winds force me to, the performance is no better than your old J model, for a higher fuel burn. However, 8000', 30"/2200 74% Power, 16.7gph (RoP) is 168ktas by my calculations. Peak/LoP is 14.1gph, 68% power, 164ktas. Note that for 17500', the same power setting would be 14.6 for Peak/LoP 70% power, 180ktas. Vs the J, the way you manage the Bravo's range is via altitude as the FF's are very similar for a given power setting throughout the altitude range, usually within 1 gph. With a Bravo, to get your money's worth, you'll need to run on O2 and get high. I've found with mine that the upper teens, low FL's (180-190) are the sweet spot. Problem is anytime of year at that altitude, if you hit a cloud, you are going to start icing up, so the one thing I really miss not having on mine is TKS as I'm getting chased away from the altitudes I want to run at, anywhere north of the FL/GA line, anytime I hit a cloud. That $70k upgrade is looking more tempting each flight, probably cheaper than upgrading to a Cessna T310R or 340A Hope that helps.

I have a pdf of the Bulletin @LANCECASPER is talking about, somewhere. It recommends, 1650 TIT limit, 65% power for maximum cruise, and 400 max CHT to get a longer TBO. When I dig it up I'll post it here. My common power setting is 30"/2200 running 10-30 LoP, depending on the cylinder, near the edge of the red box at that power setting. I've got 2 CHT's flirting with 380 at that setting and a TIT of 1500-1525. My Factory OH'd engine has around 130 SFOH on it, it came with a new/OH Turbo, and has the OEM Injectors on it, so I'm probably cheating.... I've not tried to see how lean I can run her, because I'm trying to see how fast I can go on the lean side and staying in the 380/1550 range, but I'm sure I could get in the 50 LoP range without much trouble at that power setting. Edit: Here it is: Leaning Lycoming Engines Doesn't mention the TIO-540 specifically, but does cover turbo's. "Leaning the Turbocharge Lycoming Power Plant The cylinder head temperature (CHT) and turbine inlet temperature (TIT) gauges are required instruments for leaning with turbocharging by Lycoming. EGT probes on individual cylinders should not be used for leaning. During manual leaning, the maximum allowable TIT for a particular engine must not be exceeded. Check the POH/AFM or the Lycoming Operator’s Manual to determine these temperatures and fuel-flow limits. Maintaining engine temperature limits may require adjustments to fuel flow, cowl flaps or airspeed for cooling. All normal takeoffs, with turbocharged power plants, must be at full-rich mixture regardless of airport elevation. If manual leaning of the mixture is permitted at takeoff, climb power or high-performance cruise, it will be specified in the POH/ AFM and will list required ranges for fuel flow, power settings and temperature limitations. Leaning to best economy mixture: Set manifold pressure and RPM for the desired cruise power setting per the aircraft POH/AFM. Lean slowly in small steps, while monitoring instrumentation, to peak TIT or maximum allowable TIT, whichever occurs first. Leaning to best power mixture (before leaning to best power mixture, it is necessary to establish a TIT reference poin): Set manifold pressure and RPM for the highest cruise power setting where leaning to best economy is permitted per the aircraft POH/AFM. Lean slowly in small steps until peak TIT or maximum allowable TIT is reached. Record peak TIT as a reference point. Deduct 125˚ F. from this reference, and thus establish the TIT temperature for best power-mixture operation. Return the mixture to full-rich, and adjust manifold pressure and RPM for the desired cruise conditions. Lean mixture to the TIT temperature for best power/mixture operation established in step 3. During normal operation, maintain the following limits: Engine power setting – rating listed in the Lycoming Operator’s Manual. Cylinder head temperature – limit listed in the Lycoming Operator’s Manual. Oil temperature – limit listed in the Lycoming Operator’s Manual. Turbine inlet temperature – limit listed in the Lycoming Operator’s Manual. For maximum service life, maintain the following recommended limits for continuous operation: Engine power setting – 65% of rated or less. Cylinder head temperatures – 400˚ F. or below. c. Oil temperature – 165˚ F. – 220˚ F. Turbine inlet temperature – maintain 100˚ F. on rich side of maximum allowable."

In the hundred hours I’ve had mine, I’ve yet to see a peak of 1600°, much less more. But then again, I keep getting limited by CHT at around 73% power in cruise, especially at the Summer ISA+ temps. I’ve already had Maxwell inspect the TIT probe, it’s good. So, yes you can run POH numbers, but for other reasons, I am stuck at 30/2200 as a max cruise for now. However, I’m not going to be surprised that it gets harder to hold those numbers above the power settings I’ve seen so far.

I have 3 airline buddies selling Aerostars because they are hard to find A&P’s that wrench on them.

When I was doing work on my cruise charts, I found that Lean Limit was the equivalent of Peak TIT fuel flow.

Perk of a factory overhaul is they OH/Replace the turbo as well. When I bought mine, it had 10 hours on a Factory OH’d Bravo engine.

If you can control Altitude and Vertical Speed via the G500Txi, you have the GAD43e. Prior to getting the GAD43e I had a separate controller for those things connected to the KFC150. I don’t see that controller on your panel so I assume you have the GAD43e.

This is the setup running my G600. Still have vacuum running my Standby AI. I’m on the paint/standby replacement list.

I’m told by Maxwell that there is a flat spot on mine that hangs it up a little. It’s on the agenda for next annual.

The owner of GA Jet Services at KCXO apparently is one of the Caravan organizers. He introduced himself to me on my last stop there in June and inquired if I was going to OSH and was interested in the Caravan. HTH

The microswitch has been a pain in mine. Somehow it got removed so the throttle would never activate the pump. Got it reinstalled and adjusted but it doesn’t cut off until about 33.5” now. I’ve since gone to climbing at WOT, so I guess I need to wonder how much wear and tear it puts on the pump itself.

I’ve got a Bravo, and I used to be between 4.5-5gph IIRC on a full rich start. I’d then lean back to the mid 3’s for peak idle RPM. Roughly an inch away from full rich. Now I lean some of that out after priming, but before starting so I’m hopefully running less risk of fouling plugs while on the ground before the run up. I’ll add a few twists rich before the run up and lean again for 2000 at peak rpm for the run up. Leave the mixture there until I’m back at 2000 RPM, fully richen the mixture for takeoff and then finish adding the throttle in for takeoff. I’ll run WOT until I’ve accelerated and am ready to set cruise power at top of climb to provide max FF for cooling in the climb because of my pesky #6 liking to get to the 400°+ area despite a host of corrective measures. I’m about to find out what the forum thinks of this.

When I get to the plane next I’ll reach out. I’ve been AOG for a couple weeks due to a missing part and the tug is in the plane. Having the tug attach as one piece is not a big deal for me. The switch will be nice to fix once I can.

I see my Ryobi based model in the back :-) I’ve got a few cycles on mine now and have had no issues as I figured how it likes to work. Higher air pressure and solid pressure on the wheel for traction. Just need to figure out how to reverse the direction switch. It’s wired backwards to what I think is logical. I have found with my Bravo that I have to hook up the wheel section, then attach the handle section because of the hub clearance. I set up a carrying case for it. All total with batteries and charger is about 30# for the kit.