Denis Mexted

Thanks very much guys.

Well I have the mounts, and the young fella's with nimble hands are about to have a crack. But what happens to photo's on the site. They seem to disappear, or time out after a bit. And does anyone have a copy of the DM article that is being referenced in this post they could email me please?

Thanks all. I will pull it and replace/overhaul. And thanks to the old posts above with directions on how to do so. We are changing engine mounts at the same time so hopefully the two jobs can work in together. I remember there are some other posts on changing engine mounts.

It seems like as good a post as any to extend the group knowledge of prop governors. This arm at the rear of the governor on an M20J looks a little different to the IPC. The pin here that looks well worn doesn't appear to be in the IPC pic. Any idea of the part number of this prop governor arm? Many thanks.

Hello all. Would anyone be able to email me the Don Maxwell article on replacing engine mounts, please? It's not in the download section. Also the photos in above thread are now missing. Any photo's would also be welcomed. Many thanks, Denis Mexted. PS. I'm looking to purchase Lord mounts, J-9613-40 for a M20J.

Before you balance prop make sure the blade play in the hub is within limits, track the blade tips to make sure blades are not bent How? Pull the top plugs and swing through an arch carefully noting where the tips track. Any other guidance?

I ended up with a Super Cub's throttle jammed in the idle position. (carburettor acceleration chamber fault) Anyway I left some beautiful big paddocks below me and pointed towards the departure field. Dumb. Found myself adjusting my aim into a tight paddock with very big trees everywhere. Turning base I pulled the mixture. That action must have been buried somewhere in the brain. What now is an indelible memory in the forefront of the head is the difference between idle power and dead stick. I had to push forward, and hard, to keep that Cub flying. That and the size of those trees. Big difference between idle thrust and dead stick. Generally though there are many times I've flown aircraft with the view, experience or excitement prioritised over the options menu. Flybys of yachts hundreds of miles out to sea. Or airborne pushing forward and flying down a valley over some exotic rainforest. Ag flying. etc. I guess I'm fatalistic and thus far have loved the adventures and brilliant scenery.

Thanks Osuav8ter, payment made via your website. I'm in LA (from Australia) in 7 days and will get it sent to the crew hotel. The bloody thing worked when polarity was corrected. Then most worked. Now none work I'm told. Cheers.

But wouldn't you feel like you were flying around in a Bonanza? Don't get me wrong, I love the Bonanza. But horses for courses.

Thanks Don. What I did yesterday while the cowls were off was measure the voltage from the aircraft. It was good. Then a continuity test on the globe. BUT, I now see that doesn't work with LED's. Some random internet search said the following. It is highly possible I had the wires around the wrong way last oil change, and my diagnosis this time was up the creek. (thanks for the link Osuav8ter) As mentioned, LED bulbs have a bunch of electronics inside & won't measure a resistance with the low voltage the meter uses to test. That's a "12V" MR16 type LED bulb so it'll have a bridge rectifier (1.4V drop) + typically one or more strings of 3 white leds in series & a small resistor (approx 9V) ie you'd need to apply 10.4V or more to see much current flow.

McFarlane has a PMA felt seal for < $30 Thanks, very helpful. Denis.

My M20J has a Whelen PN: 01-079623-10 which is 14V. How do I marry up those numbers and a par46 which I see Amazon sells, just not to the country I live in. Anyway, what landing light options do I have on a J model? Reading above, I see the LED's are polarity sensitive. Maybe operator error is the cause. It doesn't have continuity ATM. I assume a working light bulb would? Or is there something tricky with LED's in that department? Thanks.

1x 154-00800 Felt $24.60 Interesting the price increase in 6 years. Now $68.90 (I'm pretty sure that's USD. So That is $108 per felt seal in my language) Bloody hell. Skip, that original post has the information, part numbers timed out. But PRM 97 or 95 don't seem to be yielding results on Spruce.

I wouldn’t like to be judgmental. But I guess I am. I imagine the decision to open the throttle was reactionary and instinctive. I imagine I would do the same. However, thinking about it over a cuppa, best to close the throttle.

When you are flying with big distances between airports (such as the the Canadian 'outback', or more familiar to me Australian outback, or remote islands in vast oceans) and arriving with minimum reserves, having those reserves in one tank makes sense. I've ran tanks dry on many aircraft, many times. It gives you confidence in the sums, or these days the fuel flow gage and digital readout. Re this failure, what luck! Your next move should have been to the 'lotto' office and buy a ticket in the big draw. By the looks of the pic the skies were clear? I haven't had much to do with the Ram Air system on the Mooney. It seems self explanatory. But a friend told me story where he was over hills in the dark and the engine started loosing power. He descended into warmer air and it improved. His theory was although the Ram Air was not being used, the butterfly valve at the front was leaking air. Moist air that was freezing in the throttle body. If that be the case wouldn't that happen anytime the Ram Air was used, below the freezing level, and in moist air? I'm in the camp that the leaking fuel is a red herring also. A bit of ice in the system, fuel pump on and the burning process moves out of the possible burning stoichiometric ratio. Just a stab in the dark guess.