Jcmtl

Anyone have a source for filters? seems like champion and tempest filters are unavailable everywhere.

I bought one last year and its very good. only comment is that the sleeve for the antenna didn’t fit, it was too short, so i brought it to a tailor who sewed in a piece of waterproof fabric. Make sure you measure the antenna length.

good idea. i thought of using a tinnerman or something instead of the nut. Getting the nut into position is the hardest part.

Does anyone have a trick to reinstall the seat back. As you all know, you need to line up a bolt with a sleeve going through the seat belt clip and into a hole with a nut on the other side, all in a very cramped space designed for a 3 year old's hand. it took me 2 hours, a few cuts on my hand, a sore back and every swear word in my vocabulary the first time i did this.

It was a loose wire. It’s fixed.

blind encoder

My kt-76c is dropping mode c intermittently. The transponder has a digital screen which shows alt (when working) so it’s easy to know when mode c has been dropped. The altitude is replaced with dashed lines. It then comes back back on and drops again. More info: -when on ground using battery power, it stays on. -when alt is showing, it’s the correct altitude. -when engine is on, it drops intermittently. i don’t think it’s the antenna. Any avionics guys out there have any ideas. My shop has looked at this, thought it was the encoder fuse, replaced it, but problem persists.

2000 is fine. 1500 is doable if you really have to, ideally with a good headwind. Will probably need to slam on the brakes as soon as the plane is down.

On the pre 67 parts manual, it calls for the AN742, but on the 68+ parts manual it's the MS21919 with the rubber insert. Is one clamp better than the other, are they interchangeable? I have a 68.

I'm not sure about that. When i fly a steep approach at 80 it needs to bleed off a lot more energy than flying a shallow approach at 80 with power that instantly settles on the ground when i cut the power. The steep approach at 80 is with power off.

things start to get interesting with short fields (2000 ft or less) and displaced thresholds because of obstacles like tall trees on final. I've had a few close calls in the last few weeks (all in the aim of finding remote fields with cheap gas) where i've had to slam on the brakes at the end of the runway because of a steep approach and too much float. When you add gusts, crosswind and wind shear things get even sketchier. If it bounces, you only have 1 shot maybe 2 at saving the landing before you are forced to go around. Basically, stick to long wide runways until you feel comfortable.

A cheap upgrade that will make it look noticeably nicer is new upholstery and carpets from airtex. It takes a few months to ship out so you may want to order now. Also very easy to install yourself. i did this in one weekend.

Thanks. I've noticed on here that quite a few people have the wrong clamp. Regarding the cable rigging, i guess it's a matter of moving the throttle arm on the carb closer to that smaller (the one that hits the stop)? I'll have my mechanic look at it.

Here is a picture. This is with the throttle as far back as it will go without effort. However its not totally at idle, i have to force the extra little bit.

When i pull the throttle, i easily hit 1000rpm but getting to idle (around 700rpm) really requires pulling hard on the throttle and even then, it creeps back up to 1000. Im worried it will snap one day. It makes landings a little long. is this a simple fix? How? Any advice is appreciated.

Somebody can correct me if I'm wrong, but you do not need to be using carb heat if you're cruising at -15c OAT. I only use carb heat if OAT is between 0-10c, my carb temp gauge is indicating below freezing, and i'm flying through visible moisture because that moisture will ice up on the carb. At -15 there is no (or not enough) moisture in the air to condense and freeze on the carb. regarding your cabin heat, i fixed my cabin heat by making sure the flapper on the heat box, attached to the firewall, co-pilot side, closes completely. Then, look at the condition of the scat tubing in the co-pilot foot well. if it's in rough shape, replace it. Mine was leaking air all over the place. Also, check the cabin air scat tube for leaks.

what happens to the ball if you take your feet off of the rudder pedals and hold the yoke to keep wings level?

In my opinion, if your carpet is wet it's dripping from the top of the door, mine was doing that and a tightening of the door and a new door seal fixed the problem. Just pour water on top of the plane and look for leaks.

At that price, makes it worth it to upgrade. id say 115k for a C would need fresh OH’d engine, new paint, new avionics and an AP. if you can pick one up needing all that for 20-30k you may be able to upgrade everything, fly it for a bit, and still be in the money. the J starts at 120k.

Recommend you scrap that plastic, and go with new carpets from airtex, they come with pieces for that middle part. Make sure you specify that you need the ones for the johnson bar. I just did that in mine and it looks miles better than that nasty plastic.

This makes sense to me. I got it started with 5 pumps x 5 attempts so 25 pumps total waiting 30-40 seconds between pumping and cranking. I guess your way makes more sense, double the pumps and double the wait.

I just did this yesterday, temps in mid 20s. It took about 5 tries of priming (5 pumps of the throttle), waiting between 30-40 seconds, and cranking. I was actually surprised the battery lasted (new concorde battery). I have a feeling that a few degrees colder and this would have been impossible.

If its a 68 or older, the back seat just pops off (the bottom part) and you don’t really need more than that to see the wing spar. You may want to look at the steel cage but that’s behind the side panel which unless you’re taking the interior off you won’t really be able to see. lasar has a pre buy list of items to look at. Just run through that list.

I'm curious about this as well. For touchups to the wing leading edge where the paint has completely come off, what is the best DIY solution? Are there any good 2 in 1 primer paint sprays? if so, which ones? Etch primer or non etch primer? Thanks!

Mine does the same thing. Check your flap rigging or check if the trailing edge of the right side aileron is bent downwards.