TomM20F

Sent you a message.

Does not look like the seats in my 67F. I am reasonably confident that mine are original with an adjuster with several positions that inclines the backrest

670103

Sorry no. If I here anything further I will update. Interesting N#, I guess Mooney got them assigned in blocks during manufacturing.

I have this update from my correspondence with Mooney's Manager of Technical Resources and Product Support. Mooney has revision A of the service bulletin being reviewed by their engineering department and the FAA. Once approved it will be released. It was sent out this morning 10/24/2022 for review. Mooney has a vendor quoting new lead weights. They are moving fast to address this issue. If you have the the hybrid weights PN 430018-1 you need to email technicalsupport@mooney.com They have a spreadsheet identifying effected aircraft (my guess so they know how many sets to order). They would also like pictures of your weights. Hope this clarifies things.

This post is related to another post in the forums. There is a new service bulletin from Mooney on the elevator cracking. see the forum topic for more information. Mooney Service bulletin M20-345

You have lots of good comments from many more experienced than me. The one thing I would add is if bicycles are part of a typical mission, it is not easy to get 2 folding mountain bikes in and out of a Mooney. possible but not easy and may involve removing wheels. Done it enough that I only do it now if not able to rent bikes (if that is our mission - do some biking) or no uber availble and at a isolated GA field. Clown bikes no problem. But unless you are looking at an A36 Beechcraft with those big doors all the low wing complex are bicycle challenged.

Eliminating some variables might help you through this. Did the high CHT's exist before the engine overhaul or are they new after the engine overhaul? W/ overhaul was carb and mags rebuilt? Sounds like you have the original single cht gauge and single probe on #3 cylinder. gauge/probe are reading ambient prior to start but we don't know if still calibrated through range. You could try sticking probe in coffee cup of boiling water to get an idea at mid range. if you have a fluke meter with temperature probe (or a thermometer that reads that high) you could using a heat gun or hair dryer to get an idea of calibration at higher temp. you heat both probes using fluke as your reference, be careful not to overheat things but you can get a fairly accurate reading if you control your heat slowly and allow things to reach steady state. Baffles and seals can't be minimized, small gaps are huge pressure drops that take all the airflow and reduces airflow through the fins. looks good is not the same as "we think we have high cht readings and want to make sure all the air is getting pushed through the fins. really scrutinize your baffles, look where the silicone material is spliced and around corners to see how it all fits with cowling in place. The Lasar cowling closure is more looks than improving cooling. Mooney SB M20-182 is for the the E&F with io-360 but you can see that what they were trying to do was close off air through the fins on no 1&2 cylinder to force more through 3 and 4 and then out the bottom through a new exit scoop (side note if anyone has this on their E&F I would like to measure so I can fabricate) once you knock off some variables this will get less complex for the record engineering nerd and life time wrench turner not an A&P

Can you confirm the attaching hardware and STC paperwork are in the box. I think to install it is mounted with cherry max rivets.

David I would also be interested in a set of rigging tools. Tom

Long open end box wrench, 1/4" drive stubby ratchet with fine mechanism, 12 pt socket, short wobble extension. Pretty much used them all at one point or other. Accessed from bottom inspection panel. patience. Not a fun job, pretty much blind and by feel. but it is possible.

if you look at the left and top of the schematic, it appears there are some AWG #6 for the heavier loads which confirms Skip's nomenclature

Advisory Circular AC No: 43.13-1B ACCEPTABLE METHODS, TECHNIQUES, AND PRACTICES - AIRCRAFT INSPECTION AND REPAIR is the reference I would use for your legal question. A&P will want some reference to substantiate the repair. I think you will be able to extract the old pin, install new and repair the connector. I also think you could abandon the pin, leave the connector in place for the remaining wires and bypass for your broken wire. Use 2 aviation butt splices, a piece of aviation electrical wire of same AWG and an aviation connector. Same result, same functionality, approved components at the same location. As long as A&P approves of repair it seems this would be easier and you won't break the rest of the wires in the process.

Anything can be fixed as others have stated. My concern is that this is that someone knowingly decided to conceal it from you. What I would want to know before throwing money at this problem is the condition of the rest of the tubing structure. Personally I would want to get an experienced Mooney person to go through the air frame and tell me what I am dealing with (pull the interior apart yourself and let the expert inspect it). I am new 67F Mooney owner but not new to aviation or aircraft ownership. If we were talking about Cessna 140, 170, 180, j3 and super cubs I could offer you some credible information but I can't on a Mooney. From experience I would suggest take a step back and find what you are dealing with in total so you don't chase one problem after the next. Please don't be discouraged by mt rant, my wife will tell you I am the pessimist that assumes for the worst only to have the issue be much smaller than I worried about. You own a Mooney, get it right, and fly it. There are a lot of very knowledgeable people on this forum to help you.

I am a new old Mooney owner so I am certainly not a Mooney expert but here is my logic. If there is a leak in the system on the left (red) circuit it is open to atmosphere. The aileron servo in the red left circuit does not pull on the aileron. The aileron then remains neutral. The right aileron (green circuit) servo that does not have a leak is under vacuum so it will pull on the aileron deflecting it down. Right aileron down roll left. If you are rolling left the leak is in the left circuit provided it is a leak and not something under the dash. I think i have this right.