Fix

If you can consider an M20K 252 Encore or 252 with Encore upgrade you can load it pretty good.

My road to getting my -SB engine to run smoothly at LOP continues... I now got my Maggie Harness (Thanks Paul for assisting) and also my Gami Injectors arrived. I've suspected lots of things, but made the decision to change ignition harness to be 100% that there wasn't any issues. They looked fine when we looked at it, but since left mag even when I changed it and also did an 500h inspection didn't solve rough LOP I decided to buy one anyway. What can you say, I'm glad that I did order a new harness, since there was damage to the old one on several wires. One of the wires were actually really bad, and was in direct contact with metal. This was 5B on Left Mag... rest of chaffed wires were on bottom plugs too. This was only on ~550h since new! All damage was in clamp. (You needed to remove wire to see it) Wire with most chaffing was forced against an rivet due to wrong installation and wrong clamp. Also impossible to see without removing wire. Even if this don't solve my LOP issues, I now have a fresh and correctly installed ignition harness. Started to install new harness yesterday. Gami injectors will be next up. Cylinder 5B. Severe chaffing, through outer rubber and braid shield... Some more chaffing, due to JPI probe wire in same clamp. Some more chaffing, due to JPI probe wire in same clamp. When the installed new engine, they used old/wrong clamps that put lots of force on wires. On several wires when clamped together. After some hours of careful wire planning it slowly looks much better. Now all Ignition wires will be in own clamps, and all JPI probe wires in separate clamps.

Will check it next time.

There are actually more one more supplier of TEL in Asia according to Shell. (Can be found in their application in EU) Shell is also buying from that supplier. (If I didn't read it wrong)

Put back my newly inspected 500h Slick Mag. Engine runs more smoothly in general, but didn't solve my LOP issue. I can get it running 29" 2300 10.1 but it's not 100% smooth as I would like. Good news is that my GAMI Injectors will be sent out this week. Another good news is I had an little oil leak that been hard to find over the last 12 months. If my detective work is correct, then it was leaking from the Oil Stick rubber hose. Fitted 2x new clamps and a new rubber hose and made sure that the metal tubes got connected as they should. Last flight over an hour it appear that it stopped leaking... It was not leaking much, but it flying around everywhere making a mess.

For -SB I have the following settings: ROP (Update) 65% Key 50 25" 2500 12.5g/h (This is what I'm using) 75% Key 53 28" 2500 13.9h/h (Only tested this setting once or twice, 65% is enough...) My normal setting: At 15000 Feet (FL 150) with 65% ROP, 12.6g/h TIT ~1500, CHT 345-367F Cowl flaps closed Airspeed: ~170KTAS Soon as I get my LOP working as it should I suspect I will use LOP instead.

Sent my Slick Mag for 500h inspection, came back some days ago. Will put it back next week. Also ordered a Maggie Harness cables, hopefully they will be ready to ship next coming weeks. I noticed that the I don't have standard Adel clamps on one side of the engine. There is some similar clamp, that they do really put pressure/force on the cables. More than I think is healthy for the cables. Since I changed the Slick Mag (Left side) and it behaves exactly the same as the other, I'm starting to suspect that the harness is bad. Yesterday I got it running smoothly at 28" 2300rpm with 10.1g/h.

Can you send to Europe?

My A&P removed one at last annual, just to check and lubricate. They are easy to remove by yourself. Check the Youtube video above first. There are not many parts that should interfere why they don't close fully. There are no switch or something else that normally blocks. Check for a loose cable or similar...

That lots of oil engine spit out. I filled up with with 7qts + some camguard at annual. After 21h I have 6qts of oil. Topped up once at around 10h with 0.5qts. So that would equal roughly to: 0.7qts / 10h. Soon time to change oil anyway.

Quick update: I need to do some more testing, but I think I made some progress. Not there yet, but moving forward. I suspect that my Slick Mag that has 415h has either some internal timing error or/and e-gap out of spec or something when it get hot. I've sent the Mag for a 500h inspection, and looking forward to see what they find and then continue testing.

Slick Mag is re-timed to 20.1 degrees. I hope to have it back together tomorrow, but weather next week is not good.

Since I suspected that Cyl 2 is the one that might have had an induction leak I removed the Air intake tube just to see if there was any damage to the gasket. Gasket looked fine with any damage. I did notice that one side of the gasket it was burnt/stick to the cylinder as expected, but on the other side it was loose and there was some signs of leakage. Some slight discoloration on the cylinder, could be a illusion but gasket is now changed anyway.

I'm double checking everything for the moment, found some things that might messing with me. Checking the spark plug gap. Now all to 100% are 0.017-0.018" Ohm measured all spark plugs, lowest 0.56K, most around 0.8k-1.5k and one at 4k. First I found the non tightened nuts on all six air intake tubes, that absolutely can be the problem. Today noticed that the inner nuts on exhaust wasn't tightened as the outer nuts. Don't think this is a problem, more that they should be tightened and not good since it's the exhaust. Also EGT Probe clamps wasn't that tightened as I would like them to be. Don't think it affect my LOP but now they are tightened too. 2 cylinder drain nuts needed some love... My engine has 6 new cylinder ~170h ago and and things that you need to remove is not tightened as it should afterwards. Sloppy or not sloppy by the mechanic, but I'm starting to see that a pattern here. Hopefully everything is ready tomorrow for a quick test flight.

Will test 29/2350 10.4 This was also suggested by Kortopates. I have a gami spread of 0.5 so that should be enough. My best guess is that I have a small induction leak.