Mooney-Shiner

Yes, I'm definitely using AN hardware. It's cheap enough not to seek alternative in the Aviation aisle of Homey Depot.

I'm getting mine on Aircraft Spruce. The description says that it is cad-platted.

I emailed to Tinnerman with this photo. Hopefully, they can ID. Wishing you a meaningful and restful Memorial Day.

My Savvy A&P advisor told me that he is using Tyton adhesive mounts. I guess I would need to clean off the thick layer of my CorrosionX / ACF. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/hellermann_adhesive.php?clickkey=280642

I think I have one of these install in my wing. I would love to know the source for this hardware.

I can. Good idea. BUT I still have to pull the wire another 20" rear of the leading edge wire bundle. So how do I secure it?

I was trying to run the wire on the left wing. My main wire bundle is ran thru the leading edge rib holes. The holes are grommeted, but the bundle is laying on the bottom on the skins between the holes. So I'm trying to prevent the damage to wiring from the vibration

Thank you. This is the size of the wire in question. iPhone for the scale. I guess, I can wrap it with the heat shrink tubbing with spiral wrap and let it lay on the bottom of the skin of the wing to let the wrapping serve as a sacrificial material. I just would rather have a cleaner install where nothing has to be sacrificed.

My new landing assist system is using thick shielded 4 wire, there is no way that it will get into that leading edge bulkhead hole. Plus I have to bring this wire back from the leading edge to just forward of spar to install the LIDAR sensor.

The nav/strobe/pitot heat are ran in the really small bulkhead holes all the way at the leading edge and there isn't much room to run another wire.

Hello, folks. How do you secure the wire that you are running thru the wing to your cockpit? How do you make sure that this wire will not lay on the inside of the wing and rubs against it? Its seems that there would be a good visual illustration in AC43.13, but no avail. Best I found on the web is this picture, but there is no explanation of the part number for the angle bracket. Also, I'm not sure if I would like to drill holes in my wing bulkheads. I know that I needs to install the caterpillar grommets on the bulkhead walls, but what to do between bulkheads? Thank you!

Same thing. Holy is splices to the Gear Down light wire. Also you can tune as to what kind of announcements you are getting and when (go around, climb out).

This one worked on my 67F just fine. I just had to rivet the steel doubler plate behind the door skin because the original aluminum door hole allowed the lock to spin. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gatehouse-7-8-in-Chrome-Die-Cast-Drawer-and-Cabinet-Lock/3407884

Excellent! Thank you. I will inspect my upstop bolt. So I'm assuming since Mooney looks down upon using the stainless steel upstop bolt to prevent galvanic corrosion with aluminum hinge, same applies to other flap hinge hardware. I guess I will go with cad-plated hardware.

Hello, guys! My 20F lives in the coastal Florida and I noticed that flap hardware is getting rusty. So I decided to shop for the replacement. My IPC calls for AN3-10A bolt, AN365-1032 nut and AN960-10L/10 washers. I'm wondering what are the thoughts on using stainless steel hardware versions that is also available on Aircraft Spruce to get longer life without rusting? https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/AN3C-10A.php https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an365_2.php?clickkey=12674

Yes, it is worn out. So I riveted a steel backing plate to prevent the spinning

I just bought this kit on the Sun'n'Fun. I love the concept and will do a report on the install.

Read my pirep on Black Max. Bottom line: build your own in a fraction of time /cost

Rich, I can see that you are never taking an easy road out

Yes, I agree with you. Ben is helpful. However, the system is simply unreliable. It was disheartening to see my inside engine humidity reading at 60% after months of Black Max working. I ended up building a simple desiccant system and getting instant results. Now I need to figure out what to do with two of my Black Max systems in my garage.

I used an old pelican case to protect it from weather

I bought the BlackMax before going on deployment in 2023. Installed the the output into the oil drip stick tube, the humidity reader installed in the breather fitting at the top of the engine (Lyc IO-360). Came back after 7 months to see 60% humidity reading. The device didn't function right due to dead cooling fan. Sent it back to manufacturer in November. The fan had quit and allowed the block to overheat. Manufacturer replaced the thermal element, temp ic and heatsink/fan assy. Received it back and checked the proper flow level according to the manufacturer. The standard is air bubbles forming a "string of pearls" at the 3" depth of 2L water bottle. I was still getting between 50%-60% humidity. In December, I sent it back again to Ohio, but it passed the manufacturer test and maintained sub-20% humidity on their test bench. I installed it back, but still was getting 60% RH in the crankcase. I decided that the culprit is my engine. So I pressurized crankcase with the mattress pump and used soapy water to find any significant leak areas on my IO-360, but none were found. So I figured that the flow was not enough to keep up with humidity inside of my IO-360. I opened the Black Max and increased to max flow on the aquarium pump-looking pump. The RH was finally at 20-30%. A week later I discovered that the pump had quit and no longer pushed the air in my crankcase. I showed it to manufacturer and received the replacement BlackMax (still in the box). Overall, the manufacturer was pretty responsive, but I just don't have any confidence in the Black Max technology. I decided to do an experiment. I took the 27 gal plastic tote. Ran the drying line from BlackMax inside there and installed the probe from the humidity reader. After 24 hours of operation, the humidity was at 60%. In despair, I installed basic make shift desiccant bead dryer (much simpler than one in my original post). To my surprise, within 15 minutes the humidity inside the tote became 15%. Honestly, best you can do is build your own engine dryer where everything is clear and simple. I'm now getting 10-24% humidity in the crankcase. How is that for 10 seconds?

Hopefully, entire engine is the path. But I'm thinking the dry air enters at the oil level (low) and then eventually exits thru the high point of engine breather. Hopefully, the dry air circulates all of the nukes and crannies (maybe even packing thru piston ring gaps?)

Great work on the cost saving with using simple/surplus components! I frankly surprised that more people don't use/build these systems. This kind of threads never get any significant interest.

Here is how everything plugs to my engine.