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Mooney-Shiner

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Everything posted by Mooney-Shiner

  1. Mooney-Shiner
    Perfect! Thank you. But I meant to ask about the fuel pump output screen. I got everyone confused when I started talking about the finger screens. But I will ask my A&P to so the fuel servo filter service as well.
  2. Mooney-Shiner
    I owned my plane for 5 years, but never cleaned the fuel finger filter. I also can't find any mention of this cleaning in the maintenance records. Has anyone done their finger filters?
  3. Mooney-Shiner
    I've got pretty quick reply (within 10 minutes) from Frank Crawford. The inside block: thin L-type on the outboard, two thick washers on the inboard. Go figure.
  4. Mooney-Shiner
    A follow on question. I trying to figure out the configuration of the washers for the flap hinges. The Parts Manual for 67F is pretty confusing below: The bolt/washer/nut arrangement is confusing, so I turn to the 68F manuals for clarity: The schematic at 68F manual made more sense. Two skinny washers on the outside of the hinge, three thick washers on the inside (2 inboard/1 outboard). Does this look right?
  5. Mooney-Shiner
    Yes, I'm definitely using AN hardware. It's cheap enough not to seek alternative in the Aviation aisle of Homey Depot.
  6. Mooney-Shiner
    I'm getting mine on Aircraft Spruce. The description says that it is cad-platted.
  7. Mooney-Shiner
    I emailed to Tinnerman with this photo. Hopefully, they can ID. Wishing you a meaningful and restful Memorial Day.
  8. Mooney-Shiner
    My Savvy A&P advisor told me that he is using Tyton adhesive mounts. I guess I would need to clean off the thick layer of my CorrosionX / ACF. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/hellermann_adhesive.php?clickkey=280642
  9. Mooney-Shiner
    I think I have one of these install in my wing. I would love to know the source for this hardware.
  10. Mooney-Shiner
    I can. Good idea. BUT I still have to pull the wire another 20" rear of the leading edge wire bundle. So how do I secure it?
  11. Mooney-Shiner
    I was trying to run the wire on the left wing. My main wire bundle is ran thru the leading edge rib holes. The holes are grommeted, but the bundle is laying on the bottom on the skins between the holes. So I'm trying to prevent the damage to wiring from the vibration
  12. Mooney-Shiner
    Thank you. This is the size of the wire in question. iPhone for the scale. I guess, I can wrap it with the heat shrink tubbing with spiral wrap and let it lay on the bottom of the skin of the wing to let the wrapping serve as a sacrificial material. I just would rather have a cleaner install where nothing has to be sacrificed.
  13. Mooney-Shiner
    My new landing assist system is using thick shielded 4 wire, there is no way that it will get into that leading edge bulkhead hole. Plus I have to bring this wire back from the leading edge to just forward of spar to install the LIDAR sensor.
  14. Mooney-Shiner
    The nav/strobe/pitot heat are ran in the really small bulkhead holes all the way at the leading edge and there isn't much room to run another wire.
  15. Mooney-Shiner
    Hello, folks. How do you secure the wire that you are running thru the wing to your cockpit? How do you make sure that this wire will not lay on the inside of the wing and rubs against it? Its seems that there would be a good visual illustration in AC43.13, but no avail. Best I found on the web is this picture, but there is no explanation of the part number for the angle bracket. Also, I'm not sure if I would like to drill holes in my wing bulkheads. I know that I needs to install the caterpillar grommets on the bulkhead walls, but what to do between bulkheads? Thank you!
  16. Mooney-Shiner
    Same thing. Holy is splices to the Gear Down light wire. Also you can tune as to what kind of announcements you are getting and when (go around, climb out).
  17. Mooney-Shiner
    This one worked on my 67F just fine. I just had to rivet the steel doubler plate behind the door skin because the original aluminum door hole allowed the lock to spin. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gatehouse-7-8-in-Chrome-Die-Cast-Drawer-and-Cabinet-Lock/3407884
  18. Mooney-Shiner
    Excellent! Thank you. I will inspect my upstop bolt. So I'm assuming since Mooney looks down upon using the stainless steel upstop bolt to prevent galvanic corrosion with aluminum hinge, same applies to other flap hinge hardware. I guess I will go with cad-plated hardware.
  19. Mooney-Shiner
    Hello, guys! My 20F lives in the coastal Florida and I noticed that flap hardware is getting rusty. So I decided to shop for the replacement. My IPC calls for AN3-10A bolt, AN365-1032 nut and AN960-10L/10 washers. I'm wondering what are the thoughts on using stainless steel hardware versions that is also available on Aircraft Spruce to get longer life without rusting? https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/AN3C-10A.php https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an365_2.php?clickkey=12674
  20. Mooney-Shiner
    Yes, it is worn out. So I riveted a steel backing plate to prevent the spinning
  21. Mooney-Shiner
    I just bought this kit on the Sun'n'Fun. I love the concept and will do a report on the install.
  22. Mooney-Shiner
    Read my pirep on Black Max. Bottom line: build your own in a fraction of time /cost
  23. Mooney-Shiner
    Rich, I can see that you are never taking an easy road out
  24. Mooney-Shiner
    Yes, I agree with you. Ben is helpful. However, the system is simply unreliable. It was disheartening to see my inside engine humidity reading at 60% after months of Black Max working. I ended up building a simple desiccant system and getting instant results. Now I need to figure out what to do with two of my Black Max systems in my garage.
  25. Mooney-Shiner
    I used an old pelican case to protect it from weather
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