Scottknoll

Just to pass along some information. The entire door apparently needs removed from the airplane to properly install this Mooney door seal kit. Not sure if it is due to the type of glue required (low viscosity?), but my A&P and I determined it was not worth the effort. Seal seemed quality and I’m sure would work very well if properly installed. I have a set (Cabin & Baggage) for sale if anyone wants to make an offer.

Hangar neighbor is considering selling his 1977 J model. Hangared at PTW, most of the recent annuals have been done at Air-Mods MSC in NJ. Past 7 years it’s been flown for work travel, mostly day trips ~100-150 hours annually. Listing here for him before it goes to the major websites. AFTT= 5620 Eng SMOH = 1346 Prop SMOH= 1772 AD list attached, full logs available. KMA 20 Audio Panel (2) KX155 NavCom Garmin GTX345 ADS-B in and out WX-900 Stormscope Autopilot Century IIB single axis (Heading Bug) 6 disc CD changer! 2024 AD List - N201RW.pdf

I used the black max for about 4 years. I sent it back for service 3-4 times. Only way I knew it wasn’t working was occasionally a humidity sensor. I ended up buying a drybot about 9 months ago. The tube to insert dry air works a lot better. It is a 5/8 OD silicone tube, it slides right into the oil filler port below the tap off for the breather line. I can hear the oil gurgle and know it is pushing air past the oil into the crankcase. That was never the case with the Blackmax. The drybot monitors its function and output. It is desiccant based and dries it as necessary. It’s not cheap but seems much more robust than the black max. If making your own or using the Blackmax I’d recommend using 5/8 OD tubing for connecting to the engine. It makes a nice airtight fit down inside the filler port, past the breather tube. No worries of foam falling off. There’s also an orange dust cap that fits on top of the oil filler port, the tube passes through this dust cap. Their website has pictures. Only downside is I think it pushes oil up out of the oil pan and into the case itself. So when taking the drybot out, roughly a quart shows up about 15-20 min later. Oil reading seems about a quart low until this happens. The IO550 also hides a quart through the rest of the engine if it’s been flown recently. So it can show up to two quarts low until it all drains back into the pan. I have a spare Blackmax if anyone wants to make an offer…

1997 M20R 1mm/200k pp liability 350 hull Pilot 1 ~ 8000TT 300 M20R ATP Pilot 2 ~ 3500TT 800 M20J, 15 M20R, Comm/IFR $4433

Ice detect light, shines down the leading edge of the wing. Required for FIKI installations I believe.

Another pic after we removed the muffler.

The Ovation has a cross flow muffler. Cylinders 1/3/5 enter the right side, go straight through the muffler via a tube with holes. That 1/3/5 exhaust then goes out the left side. Opposite for 2/4/6, left to right and out the right side. Perhaps that makes it easier for broken pieces to exit the exhaust.

This is inside the muffler of our Ovation. As I understand some Mooneys don’t have mufflers. I was bored during my first true owner assisted annual this June so I stuck a borescope up the exhaust. IA had already taken the heat shroud off the muffler and there were no cracks. I don’t think it would have been caught, feel lucky we found it. We used aerospace welding (now a Hartzell company I think) and it was about 3amu and 5 weeks. Aerospace Welding Minneapolis, Inc. 3344 Highway 149 Eagan, MN. 55121 800-597-4315 Here is a picture from my borescope. They are supposed to be tubes straight through the muffler that have holes in them to dissipate the flame (hence the term flame tube). As they get old and deteriorate they start to warp and block the flow. These were this bad and we still had strong takeoff performance, glad we found it when we did. No record of replacement in ~ 2500 hours. Also, an additional thought to consider is that we had no rattle. Even after removing the exhaust and muffler there were no loose pieces, just deformed metal inside the muffler potentially blocking flow.

We have the 310HP and the Garmin is programmed for 2700RPM. So it should be based on 310HP.

I did some rough math for the Ovation a few years ago. ~90KIAS = 1.5nm/min (no wind) 10,000’ = 18nm glide (from engine out glide chart). 18nm divided by 1.5nm = 12 min glide. 10,000’ / 12 min = 833’/min Then I went out and flew 90 knots with gear/flaps/speedbrakes out. Reduced power until I got roughly 800-900’/min descent. Used % power from the Garmin. I think I came up with about 35% power, hopefully kinder on the engine than full idle. This makes me feel like I’m being gentler on the engine. So for engine out practice I put everything out and set 35% power. Keeps the power up but gives me the same glide. I “simulate” putting the gear down and flaps out by reducing power further when necessary. Might not be the best training reinforcement, since I’m not doing it how I would in a real emergency. But I feel better doing this on a regular basis. Then again training aircraft routinely go to TBO because they’re flown often and nobody babies those engines [emoji2369]

Count me in as well. I’ve read about the bonanza workshops and would love to attend a Mooney maintenance workshop.

It was $370 plus ~$25 shipping a year ago. I think the ICA calls for it to be changed every 2 years.

I did this with my A&P last year. If I recall properly, there is a spring inside and when you loosen that single bolt in the center on the top the entire canister separates from the top cap. That bolt goes all the way to the bottom of the canister can screws in at the bottom. It wasn’t hard, but getting a socket/wrench on there was a bit of a pain. Was worth changing, mine was a bit browned. No record of any previous owner changing it. Just be careful of the spring to make sure it goes back together the same way with new o-rings. My filter came from cav with new o-rings.

I was showing 3-4amps in cruise, and it turned out the EIS was programmed incorrectly. If I recall they have to program the shunt information into the EIS and the Ovation didn’t fit the standard Garmin settings. I happened to put a clamp-on ammeter on my battery cable to check something unrelated. The clamp-on was reading double the EIS. Quick setting change in the GI-275 and it was reading properly. It usually settles down to 1amp in cruise now.

Just bought the 2.5 gallon bottles from Boeing. Less than $18/gallon, but you have to get an account with them and had to pick it up at the local warehouse. The shipping can be expensive.

AirSync says it can do that. I looked into it, but never did sign up. About 1AMU of equipment and $500/year, but it does claim to automatically send the data to Savvy among other products. https://www.air-sync.com/airsync-bridge-kit/

I grin every time too. An amazing machine! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking for help identifying the washer on our gascolator. Airight 51250. It’s not detailed in the Ovation IPC, and lasar could not find it either. I know they have the gasket kit, but the washer isn’t called out in that. My IA would like to replace as a it’s a little worse for wear (wallowed out hole and dinged up), it’s a pretty thin washer. It is located between the nut that holds the gascolator on. I can’t seem to locate a contact for Airight either.

Took mine to @jetdriven Some pictures below. Bottom of spinner was flush with cowl. After, the top of the spinner was flush with the cowl. Told to go fly it and check again. It’s been perfectly centered for the last 2 years. I think he checked engine mount stacking and torqued. Not sure if the mounts were incorrectly stacked or not. But it should be centered, the spinner/cowl gap is very small.

The CMM specifies the minimum power and load requirements based on your Ah rating. What I used may not work for everyone. Most dc power supplies that I found were 30v. For a 28v battery, Concorde says the conditioning charge could go as high as 34v. So I found this 50v power supply. Load tester is 500v 15A and met what I needed but may not work well for 12v batteries with higher Ah ratings. They have a 150v 40A version too. ET5411A+ Electronic Load Tester... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C9LY63FZ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share HYELEC DC Power Supply,50V 6A... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09XTWKVLD?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Exactly. The CMM defines what the load needs to be and for how many minutes. 51 min (85%) is a good cap check. In our case with a 13.6Ah battery, we applied a 13.6A load until the battery reaches the rated end point voltage (20v for the RG24-15). If your dc load can’t do tenths, you can follow the guidance in Concorde Tech Bulletin 13. It gives time adjustments (49 minutes = 85%) if you run the test at 14A in our example. But don’t just double the load for half the time. The documentation is very good and easy to follow. Equipment to test is not very expensive unless you want the automated testing equipment from Concorde.

Just some feedback from following the Concorde CMM procedure. Batteries both failed capacity check. 85% is the minimum and we had 66% and 3%. Conditioning charge per the CMM resulted in a 102% and 88% capacity check. Reached out to Concorde, they said no impact to battery life if the capacity check and conditioning charge are followed as defined in the CMM. Used a DC load and DC power supply from Amazon ($280). Would have gladly replaced if unairworthy, but happy to put off buying two $850 batteries.

I’m just doing this myself as well. I’m having difficulty finding RG24-15 batteries. Hoping to save one that barely failed. I am using this dc power supply: HYELEC DC Power Supply,50V 6A 150W Switching Regulated Bench Power Supply https://a.co/d/5i0d3DV Concorde Manual specifies power supply and load requirements based on battery size.

Oops. Well then I am interested in any information on these too. Just replaced the $85 halogen beacon instead of converting to the $1500 Whelen LED beacon. Those are the last 3 non-LEDs we have.

Whelen LED. Couple hundred bucks, but super bright. Hangar neighbor said he can see Nav/Strobes a few miles out on final, during the day (I don’t do much night flying). Last picture is a still pulled from video of the LED strobes. Strobes are the only light in the picture.