flyingchump

I'm considering that but I have been taking a BATH financially and I also don't have anyone around me who has made the swap before. I can physically swap the starters but what about the aluminum baffling and felt seals? Will it need modification? Will I need a longer starter cable? I don't want a $585 starter to turn into a $2000 project. Also, I've never been within 200lbs of gross weight yet so I'm not worried about that.

I recently replaced the motor mounts and had motor off the firewall (2 weeks ago). I had to take the starter cable off the solenoid and the ground strap off the firewall. Everything was cleaned thoroughly. After cleaning it seemed like the starter was cranking a bit faster with all the connections being cleaned and solid. I almost suspect that the extra amperage/voltage could have pushed this "dead spot" condition to the surface.

Yup. Original prestolite.

Doing some work at the hanger today and thought I'd take a few laps around the pattern. Pull the plane out, preflight, startup checklist, CLEAR, click... Nothing but a single click. Try again, just 1 click... O boy... And just to be clear, the starter did nothing. It didn't turn slowly or even try to turn. Just motionless. The starter solenoid is making the click. Not a low voltage/amperage clicking. Just a normal powerful thud from the solenoid. Out comes the volt meter. Battery voltage - good, 12.4v Voltage at solenoid - good, 12.4v (with the starter engaged) Voltage at starter - good, 12.4v (with the starter engaged) So I employ the old farmers trick. Tap it with a hammer once (the electric motor, not the Bendix). Tried starting and nothing but just a click again. Then used the hammer to tap the starter lightly in various places and voila! She cranks! I then proceeded to run the engine for a few minutes, shut down, and restart 5 times with no issues. It cranks at normal speed and starts as normal 5 times which tells me its not the battery, wiring, solenoid, or grounds. Btw, the ignition switch was upgraded from the push to start switch to the normal turn to start switch and its the old "original" type starter. P/N MZ4222R Any ideas what would cause this? Thankfully this happened at home base and not hundreds of miles away. These starters are basically tractor starters from what I've been told. Can I have it rebuilt at my local aerospace tractor repair station?

Reporting back. I FINIALLY got the plane back together with the new mounts in place... What a PITA! The mounts I removed were not installed properly in 1998 so I could not compare what I took out to what I put in... 55 years of people working on this plane and some of them didn't do everything right. But at least it's done! Along the way I fixed a few other items that I found. Poorly connected ground strap, secured cables and hoses properly, fixed a chafing issue, tightened a lose bolt or 2... The rain stopped long enough for me to pull the plane out and run the engine (first run with the new mounts) The startup was amazing! The fuselage nor and of my instruments shook. I barely felt the engine on. I started the engine without the side and upper cowl so I could watch the engine shake in the mounts. Plenty of movements to cushion the vibes. I then did a full power high speed taxi (couldn't actually fly, ceilings too low) and it was very smooth. I'm very happy I changed these out even though some folks said "eh, they look fine"... Next week I get the prop balanced. Its gonna be even smother. I took a few photos of the old mounts. They aren't the worst I've seen but they are HARD. And most had some deformation.

Thanks guys. Well I didn't notice a hole at the bottom but I'll look next time am at the hanger. I don't have an ADF so it sounds like I can remove this. Next time I have the interior out, I'll trace the wires and see if it can be taken out. Thanks Guys

So I have another question for the group as I get deeper into my plane. I was in the tail cone checking out the battery and noticed a "connector" zip tied aft of the ELT. The wires coming off of this connector travel forward into the fuselage which I cant trace unless I take my interior out again... I don't want to do that now. Its not causing any problems (as far as I know). I'm just wondering what it is/was and to see if can be removed next time I have the plane apart. Any thoughts?

That's good exactly what I ended up doing. With that washer in place, everything looks much happier. I kinda feel like the inaccurate instructions that came with the Barry mounts are to blame here. I'm betting the last guy (23 years ago) followed the same instructions and didn't put the washers in... I still have to put the cowls back on and check the spinner alignment but I'll take this win today!

I'm certainly no expert but have you checked your sniffle valve at the bottom on the engine? Maybe is stuck closed.

There was a washer that was included in the package (97-9074-11) but the Barry Controls instructions stated to put the washer by the head of the bolt, firewall side, on both the upper and lower mounts. That's also how the old Barry mounts were installed. Its highly possible that the old ones were installed incorrectly but when it agreed with the instructions.... I had no reason to question it. I'm really not looking forward to taking the engine off the plane again... That was such a pain. Any other suggestions or items to research before I commit? I did some more research on my engine and found out a few things that were noteworthy (although I don't think it makes a difference to the mounts). My plane which was born in 66 had its original engine (IO-360-A1A) taken off for unknown reasons in 1969 and replaced with a narrow deck IO-360-A1A engine originally mounted to a 1964 Mooney M20E, N7837V.

That's what I'm thinking... Either it's the wrong mount or there is a spacer that I haven't seen in any of the documentation. Maybe m20doc is around?

So I need some help here. I just changed out the old mounts for new Barry mounts. The bottom mounts don't sit flush against the motor... I referenced the service manual, the instructions that came with the mounts, and various posts on mooney space and others. As far as I can tell I followed all instructions. My ap and I are stumped. Please help with advice! Io-360a1a 1966 m20e 4x Barry mounts 94011-02

Another question. I have the new motor mounts but cant get them installed for probably 2 weeks. I can have the prop balanced within a few days... The guy who will be balancing my prop said it makes no difference if I balance the prop first then change the mounts later or change the mounts first then balance the prop. He said he balances the prop to the motor and the mounts have no real impact. Is there a better order of operations here?

Any Pirep?

I'm learning that a "pilots license" does not give you a license to fly, it gives everyone else the license to take your money...

I was looking at this earlier today and what nut to use concerned me. AN363-720 is called for the C and D. The bottom line, AN363-720, doesn't specify the E and F model. The AN 363's are currently installed. I thought the AN365 were the fiber lock nuts and don't take heat very well.

I would assume as the mounts compress over time, more washers are added to make up the difference? Could this be another sign that the mounts are bad? assuming they were the right bolts in the first place...

Thank for your advice. Funny thing is that I have no sag. I would have expected sag after the lower mounts had leaked out all the silicone, were exposed to an engine oil leak, and are 24 years old... Like you said they go bad in different ways.

Did your vibration issue resolve?

I've been having some vibration and want to get rid of it. I'm just about to schedule a dynamic prop balancing and thought... I'd better check my motor mounts. Prebuy inspection mentioned nothing, 3 separate service guys doing work in the mount area mentioned nothing, annual inspection mentioned nothing... First year of ownership has been a bi!&h. Here is what I found. Both lower mounts are punctured and dry rotting. Both upper mounts don't look too bad but are not very soft. If I'm reading the date properly, the sure date was 1997, week 43! Geez. Looks like I need to order some mounts. Please let me know what you guys think. Any advice on Barry vs Lord? Any tips for making the swap easier, faster, better?

I've had two full sized road bikes in my E. Its not that hard after you do it once. I had room for baggage in the back seat and the baggage compartment.

I've got tape rolling around the hanger somewhere... Is there a point to this opening? Access to the aileron links?

Gents, I started looking at this hole (aft NLG well) and wondered if there is supposed to be a cover there... Kinda looks like there should be, no? Referencing the parts and service manual didn't help. What's the point of this opening?

This peaks my curiosity.. I have a 66E with the IO-360-A1A and I have some vibration that I'm chasing down. Are you saying that replacement of the rubber engine isolators wont do anything to improve vibration because the engine is counterbalanced?

I'm sure someone has done this before... Thought some of the curious among us might want to see. I just replaced my 1010 ELT battery during the annual so I thought I'd take apart the old one. I've heard they are just D batteries but I want to see how they were configured. I know I shouldn't have been, but I was surprised at just how simple it was... 9 D cell Rayovac High Energy batteries welded in series (1P9S) wrapped in masking tape and hot snotted in a case... Super easy and cheap to build. The battery was only $35 from spruce so I'm not complaining. The pack expires next month (April 2021) and measured 14.56 volts. 9 batteries rated at 1.5volts each only calculates to 13.5. So my battery was measuring a full volt higher than rated. Not bad but not measured under load. The batteries had Feb 2028 printed on them with is a almost 7 years past the replacement date of the pack (4/21)... Seems excessive to replace every 2 years but I'm sure someone had a reason for this 30+ years ago.