Nukemzzz

Replaced the cable in my 66E early last year. I didn't have to take anything extra apart. I think I attached the cable to the lever and then reinstalled the lever, then connected it to the pump last. I do remember that getting all the shims and nut all back in place was a real challenge. Requires that the tools all be just the right size, length, etc. The trick to it was using the correct sequence of curse words. Pull the co-pilot seat.... you'll be on you back for a while trying to find the curse word combo. The flap pump side has it's own challenges. Sorry I can't remember more precisely.

Annual time for 34X...I've not been flying too much as I wait on medical, but need to keep her airworthy and ready for go time. (I just had to pay for another year of Insurance as well... apparently letting the insurance lapse would not be a good thing but it double in price for me this year) At this annual I'm thinking about adjusting the interconnect. My CFI thinks it's currently ok so that's why I've not addressed it before but it sure seems like it can be improved. If I remember correctly, if I level and trim and stabilize first.... then make a right turn, I need right rudder (to maintain coordination), so far so good. If I instead make a left turn, I once again need a little right rudder. Pretty sure this isn't normal for this plane. I suspect the interconnect bungee is too tight for the left hand turn and too lose for the right hand turn. Is there a procedure for adjusting these or would I need to take it to a Mooney Service Center for this level of tweaking? Sorry for being MIA. Lots of things went down in 2021 and I'm still only a Mooney owner and not yet it's pilot. lol

I guess the good news is I haven’t failed it yet. I just have a few things in my record that they don’t like. For example, I took SSRI briefly during my divorce (it was bad, let me tell you). I also had a car crash with the cause being “I passed out” and we never sorted exactly why it happened. This is pretty much exactly the kind of thing they are looking for. Now we have it sorted: vagus vagul nerve triggered low blood pressure and I hyperventilated. I’m waiting on a second letter from the neurologist that makes it clear that he understands. Is special issuance shorter duration normally? I sure hope they don’t put some restrictions on me after all of this. I have no idea of what to expect. btw…you could run circles around me with your cardio.

Thanks for the continued discussion on this guys. My friend that helps me with this sort of thing went and bought the hose that he thought I needed and it doesn’t fit. The fitting is too big and the hose OD is too big. I sent him after what you recommended Clarence and when I ended up with the other he said: “but that other hose is air hose”. So, I’m still working on this. I’ll probably just get what the manual calls for because it’s just hydraulic fluid storage. Though I need to research the ends to be sure they aren’t too big as well. It just barely fits between the cabin and the frame. Thanks again!

Class III yes. It’s been a real pisser. I’m approaching my second year of ownership and my flight training has been waiting on my ticket for most of it. I’ve gone back and forth with FAA medical and spent at least $5,000. Right now I’m waiting on a the second written evaluation from a neurologist. (They’ve sent me to one twice now). I had to pay a physiologist $3,300 for him to talk to me for a couple of hours and write a report. It’s been a long and trying thing. I called AOPA a couple of times. Their advice is to bend over and grab my ankles and don’t bother trying to protect my wallet. I’m really hoping to get approval by winter. I’ve practically rebuilt my 66E, spent $260 a month to hangar it, and two years of insurance. I got it hoping to visit my ailing mother more often with it…she passed on before I could get it done. Now my father is alone and I need to be able to get to him easier and we have precious little time to chase each other in our planes…while he still can. I was his co-pilot as a child. It’s about to be his turn to be mine. Just have to carry on…

Thanks Doc!

And yes, it's been a while since I've posted. I have some reasons... Plane was doing ok after that epic year long annual so I didn't have many issues to sort out. Also, I moved... haven't flown in two months now because I've been too busy. Also, FAA Medical sent me a letter and they still won't let me solo and it's kinda letting the wind out of my sails... sooner or later they will relent I hope. I'm persistent (almost 2 years since I applied). lol

So i found a cracked flare at my flap pump on the supply hose and I need to replace the hose between the flap pump and the metal line that runs along the firewall in the cabin. The fitting is just to the right of the passenger's right ankle. I'm terrible with AN fitting Identification and my parts manual is MIA somewhere after my move. Does anyone have the manual handy and know what I need to order to replace this guy? I can measure the length, I just don't know what size and type of fitting I'm looking at. Thanks

My condolences to the friends and family of those that were lost in this accident. I also wanted to say that I hope the NTSB follows MooneySpace because this is a master class of intelligent folks coming together to understand something. If they read this thread it will save them some time. I also wonder…does the NTSB check forums for clues of what was maybe done before an accident? Things posted by the pilot ahead of the crash

Is this a seat adjuster failure? The seat slides back as you are holding the stick. If you hold on too long you are screwed. If you let it go you are screwed.

Slotted screws are definitely better in this application. Torc would also work well...

It has a generator. But yeah. I need to check that as well.

Not yet, I plan on checking that tomorrow.

So over the last couple of flights I’ve picked up a nasty popping and crackling sound in the headset. You can hear it in this video. It sounds a lot like frying bacon, you can feel the popping on your ears, and it’s aggravating. Seems to mainly happen when at full throttle. Turning the radios off doesn’t change it. Pushing buttons on the audio panel doesn’t change it. Messing with the intercom doesn’t change it. Messing with the headphone plugs doesn’t change it. I checked the mag p leads and they look fine. Nothing has changed that I’m aware of other than adding a WAT Pro LED light but it’s turned off. I need to do more troubleshooting on the next flight. Just wondering if anyone recognizes the sound.

Where would I find replacement quarter turn screws for the battery door on my 66’ E? The heads are almost all stripped out now.

Thanks for the feedback. It’s what I was concerned about as well. However, I can report that I no longer use full nose up trim on takeoff and it’s still just me and the instructor. Three things I think are going on: 1. It’s no longer winter and I can actually trim further...I think it felt like max nose up but wasn’, 2. The plane is back flying often to the trim screw is freed up more and I wasn’t actually getting full nose up before, 3. The trim indicator seems to be off. Starting from full nose up, it takes 5 pulls of the wheel (not turns) and then the indicator starts to read. And this is what I’ve been using for takeoff when coming off of a landing. I need to take some time and work it stop to stop and see where the indicator really is. So it seems to be ok, but not without quirks.

Haha, I meant to say "Pilot and Passenger Hip"

On the E it’s by the front passenger hip on the other side of the lower wall. You might need new gaskets. A fuel boost pump or fuel lime leak smell can get into the cabin as well. My boost failed and leaked from the weep hole under the plane and I could smell that during stalls. You should assume it’s a dangerous leak if it just showed up. Gasoline is dangerous and we forget that sometimes.

I see, I knew I was missing something! Thanks for the clarification.

It was actually. I have been looking for a degauss gun like the one that raptor had on that last post. Looks better suited than the crt coil that I used. Both my old whiskey and the new vertical card compasses have aluminum brackets and I have brass screws. It was coming from the center tube mainly it seems... I’m think I have it licked now. At least I hope.

I think I know how it became magnetized. When I flew the plane home after buying it the exhaust popped and it was immediately down for a month and a half in the winter. While waiting for the exhaust overhaul I installed an EDM-730 and had a space heater in the plane with me for much of it since the hangar wasn’t heated and I’m in Indiana. I found out later about this steel cage in the plane that gets magnetized if a high current wire gets too close. At least I’m hoping this is it. Also, I know of no other way to fix it than to demag.

The cone heater addition thing is confusing me. Adding something in series will reduce the current, not increase it, because it can only increase the resistance (Well...unless you inserted a capacitor but lets not get crazy!). I=V/R (Voltage is fixed). I just took the degauss coil and used it as-is. It could only be ran for 30 minutes because it would overheat if ran longer. This is evidence that the amperage, going through the coil, is already as high as you can go without damaging things. I could smell the plastic getting hot inside after about 15 minutes of use.

Have you read my posts? The whole reason I'm working on this is to get it within the 10 degrees. You are preaching to the choir.

Update... I pulled the the plane out on the apron and faced it East, took note of the compensated compass reading, removed the compass, then used the tool pictured below to degauss per the service bulletin. When I re-installed the compass it was reading 10 degrees different and this is in the East direction which was low deviation (N-W was the maim issue). So it seemed to have a big impact! I need to re swing the compass now and see how much it helped.

All good points and I agree. However, as I said above, I have my PPL check ride coming and having the NW quadrant out by 23deg is a good way to fail the check ride. It’s my understanding just asking: “are you ok with testing me with a compass that is above spec for deviation” would be an automatic fail.