GeeBee

Nope. TSA required KGVL to put up a fence and cipher controlled gates. No military, no scheduled service. Condition to continue ADAP money.

Oh thanks, that stuff I am familiar with and I take a very active role in those issues. That is what is troubling here. This is a new alternator with a new coupling (replaced 4-10-23) and I personally verified compliance with Continental SB11-3. I am hoping it is just wiring but the symptoms act like a coupler.

Well I find myself AOG in RDU with an alternator problem. Talked to Causey Aviation and they could not do it. They referred me to Elite Aviation who is on the job tomorrow. Anyone have any PIREPS?

It also depends on the material when using breakaway wire. For instance plastic switch guards need to be copper.

Most drones don’t have an oil breather with a propeller in front of it. I find when I clean mine with some alcohol performance improves

Did you try cleaning the lens?

One wire for each nav light, the other goes to the annunciator panel for the dimming signal.

The switch is the breaker.

I purchased these units and the first set failed. I sent them back to Whelen and they shipped me back complete factory new units as a replacement. I have decided to go a different direction of LED Nav lights so I am selling these new, never used units. They are 28V. Complete with box and instructions.

I removed this from my Ovation. It is 28V bulb in it but just install a 12V bulb for 12V systems. It includes the U-channel mount. It has recently resealed with a new diaphragm. No bubbles. Price is $179.00 plus shipping.

There is nothing magical about the magneto switches if using the toggle type. I had a PA-18 with the Atlee Dodge tall panel and the instructions simply said MS35058 toggle switches. The starter switch is a simple Cole-Hersee unit. The problem you have is securing your aircraft with this type of unit. The door lock is easily defeated and there is no problem starting after you are in the door. If using toggles, I would make sure the is a switch guard of some type. Twin Cessnas and my PA-18 use a rail to prevent downward movement of the switch. There are other guard available. You could also use locking toggles like in the photo in the OP.

https://www.eaa.org/eaa/aircraft-building/builderresources/while-youre-building/building-articles/cowlings/the-installation-and-use-of-piano-hinges

G1000 which cannot happen.

Pure luck.

The single biggest factor besides correct technique of the hand propper, is a good set of magnetos and spark plugs. So often I have seen people struggle with a hand prop because of weak spark which results in struggles with fuel, which then results in unintended RPMs and a resulting runaway. J-3s with A-C mags seem especially susceptible because so few are correctly maintained because of a paucity of skilled maintenance people on those units. I used to be very good at hand propping even bringing some 6 bangers to life. No more. I am not current and no longer proficient. I took quite a beating a while back on SuperCub.org because I challenged the conventional wisdom there that everyone should be able to hand prop their airplane. There is not reason to do this if a starter is available for several reasons. One, if it is starter equipped it is unlikely the person involved is proficient and current, both required for a safe start. As I pointed out, a dead battery for starter is not an excuse in the world of overnight freight. Some Alaska types said, "What if I am on a glacier!" Answer: Have someone fly you up a battery or starter. Hand propping when you are not current or proficient on an snow or ice covered surface is a really bad idea. Bottom line, like texting while driving...it can wait. A while back at KUCY I saw a 172 after several failed start attempts ending with a dead battery attempt a hand prop. The technique was so bad including leaning into the swing, I finally had to walk over and suggest they stop before someone got killed. I rarely do something like that, but I decided it was so bad that if the prop caught, there would be blood.

Fast, Cheap, Good. Choose two.

Why would you not look into Gann in LaFayette, Georgia?

So you takeoff, at around 800' your engine quit, you push everything forward, and swi........tanks? How is that fixed harness working for you?

Actually, recently visited a shop that is both a Cirrus and Mooney Service Center. The shop is qualified to do Cirrus repairs and I saw two under repair. One was a hangar rash to the stabs, the other was a collision between a fuel truck and wing. Neither repair condemned the airframe. The repair method was reviewed and approved by the factory and a repair kit was created to fix the damage sections. As I spoke to the shop foreman I asked how the man hours of the Cirrus repair compares to an aluminum airframe. He said in reality they are about the same if not a little less for the Cirrus because removal of the damaged section is actually easier. Repair of composite airframes is not new. The Marines in the 90's repaired successfully a lot of AV-8B Harriers wings with a lot of Iraqi created holes. They have not lost one to a bad repair.

Inertial all the way. I flew in a friends airplane a while back with manuals. I dropped a pen on the floor and what a PIA (That is not Pakistan International Airways)

When someone says, "replace all 6 cylinders" that is a non starter for me. There may be some weak cylinders but they all don't go bad and they don't go bad in 30 hours. Fix the exhaust valve and get the FF right. Take it from there.

Mercedes S Class.

I am trying to remember but I believe it was "pelican".

Here you go!

If you find a used one are you sending it out for a yellow tag?