Jblanton

The mating surface on the case looks weird. There is what looks like some paint transfer. There should never be any paint on the mating parts. Was there an O-ring on the bottom of the cylinder? I doesn't look like there was one looking at the case. Did you take the piston pin plugs out already? I don't see them. How do they look?

They mount the same without modification I'm pretty sure. The forward one has the connector offset to clear a tube. I have a nice used set if interested.

Might try Sigma Tek in Augusta, KS. 169CL Cluster Gauges (sigmatek.com)

I looked at my plane with a mirror and flashlight through the flap actuator hole with the flaps down. Everything is the same as your picture except I don't have the three Fastners upper right in the pic. 1968 M20G S/N 680048 with vacuum step. I know planes with a fixed step are different in that area. Jeff

That light shines down to illuminate the fuel valve.

Easy to do. One twisted pair 22g wire. The number 2 radio is hooked up via ARINC 429 to the GAD29B, and a couple settings changes in the 430 and G5. You must remove the connections to the 106A to be legal. Can't display on two indicators.

The Data is an effect, not a cause. That is something I have had to realize maintaining modern jets.

I don't have electric pitch trim. My IAS climb, and altitude hold is near perfect. I don't miss it either. It is just three swipes on the wheel when I level off, and three swipes when I descend. The GSA 28 servo is weak for Mooney pitch trim so it is geared accordingly. Maybe the pitch trim is too slow and it is fighting the pitch servo, but what do I know. I don't know if you can disable electric trim for a flight, or at least put your hand on the wheel.

It has the mounts for roll and pitch. The yaw servo would mount in the other hole, but the kit doesn't come with the components to hook up yaw. Yaw kit can be ordered separately along with trim kit if wanted. I am more than happy with the two servo setup in my M20G.

I have a 2 servo GFC 500 bracket kit for sale that fits M20J and K with 8130's. The dealer ordered the wrong bracket kit for my M20G. I elected to keep this kit at the time because I owned a M20J as well. I have since sold the M20J and I have no need for this. I paid around $1900.00. I would like to get $1000.00 shipped. Jeff

I've just done a lot of fuel tank work in the past 25 years. People make such a big deal about Mooney tanks. A reseal isn't complicated, but is time consuming. It is actually one thing in the maintenance manual and SB that is somewhat detailed. Cost me under $500. I would rather do a Mooney tank than re tape and put a bladder in a C-182. Worst fuel tank jobs I have done are Hawker, Westwind, and Sabreliner though.

To answer the Question When I did mine myself I used 2 Gallons Polygone, Three quarts of CS3204 B2 and two 4oz tubes of CS3330 B2 for access panels. Also 2 Quarts CS 3600. This is per side. I also used a quart of Alodine. Buy a Sealant gun and tubes/tips from Business aircraft consumables to do the filet application. I do Quarts and fill my own tubes because I have had too many bad premade tube kits. I made up about 50 plastic scrapers so I always had a sharp one. You will more than likely find most of the captive nutplates blown out and needing replacing from past maintainers putting screws in with sealant in the hole. Put on some peaceful music, and have band aids within reach!

If you retracted the gear with the fairing like that check the retraction tubes in the belly, and check rigging/preload. I have personally seen a bent retraction tube from this same scenario.

Do not buy the ACS harness from Aircraft Spruce. I have bought two, and thrown both in the trash after headaches. They are also not for certified aircraft. Get the Maggie.

It might be just the picture angle, but your spinner looks like a larger diameter than stock to me.