Buckeyechuck

I use a double jointed ram mount on my yoke for a full size iPad. Great for approaches as the chart is right in front of you. It’s tight but doable. I have two G5’s. I input headings on the upper screen to help with getting around space issues.

Good luck class with the rehab. I’ve messed up the left shoulder I had repaired, but it’s getting to the point where I think I can go on without another surgery. The right one isn’t great but is good enough to swing gear in my C. We will all be hoping for a quick recovery for you.

The ignition harness was new with the new slick mags we installed. It has since been replaced with the engine overhaul.

I’m putting my money on the left mag. The retard circuit is not firing. When you are cranking the starter the right mag and the left mag run points are grounded and won’t fire. As soon as you release the starter the right mag and the left main points fire. That’s why you only get a start then. I’m surprised you haven’t had a kickback and broken your starter. I fought this issue intermittently after installing new mags. Replaced the starter switch to no avail. Turned out one of the plug wires was shorting out the retard breaker terminal on the left mag. My A&P/IA couldn’t find it but I did after intense scrutiny. Rerouted the plug wires and installed insulating boots on EVERYTHING under the cowl.

I use Falcon out of Kerville. Stacy Hamilton is the agent, insured through Global-Aero. I’m 72 so changing now would be risky. I’ve increased hull value significantly after engine overhaul, prop overhaul and upgraded panel. Mid 2 amu cost for 80 amu hull value.

My IA has a fiberglass version of the cowl closure but no STC. I could probably get if for little to nothing but shy’d away due to lack of paperwork.

If this is done as a DIY, how is it logged? 337?

First in response to the above quote, I installed a JPI analyzer (not primary) shortly after the overhauled engine was installed. Due to the high numbers, one of the first thing I did was check the TC readings in a cup of boiling water. They checked ok. I’ve had one flight to check for improvements after the annual. I did a lot of work to close up the doghouse in the back and across the front of the #2 cylinder. After takeoff, climbing out at WOT, #3 was hottest at about 430 with #4 about 10 degrees cooler. This is opposite of how they ran before and much cooler. I’m not sure how much is due to climb at WOT, how much is due to doghouse improvements, and how much was due to the 30 degree outside temperature. I’m back in Florida now for the holidays and will update again once I get a few more flights. Here is a photo in cruise from the first post annual flight.

Amazing how much difference there is in 2 years of production.

If you look at the photo, the battery box vent tube comes off the side and goes down about 8” to the pilot footwell part of the firewall. You can see it just above the white battery cable. No way it attaches to the tube off the doghouse in that configuration. Something must have been modified over the years. Battery box drain tube routes to left cowl flap opening.

That makes sense. There is a tube in the side of the box that I’ve assumed was just a vent. Since I am using a sealed battery, should I still connect it, or should I seal off the tube to force that air across the #4 cylinder. I’ve closed off the gaps at the rear of the doghouse, lower cylinder barrel area, on both sides, and tightened up the front baffling as well. Still finishing up the annual so haven’t determined any benefit yet.

Yes, there is a small SCAT tube that comes from a small opening in the front of the lower cowl up to the area between the accessory case and the firewall.

Any idea what this tube is for? It can’t be to cool the battery box. I have the tubes that supply cooling air to the mags but can’t figure this one out.

I used Gee Bee’s baffle seal. It’s better than the red rubber. Well reinforced.

My logs are at the airport for annual. Let me look it up next time out there.