Jump to content

Buckeyechuck

Supporter
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    151

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Buckeyechuck

  • Birthday 05/08/1952

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    KRZT, Chillicothe, Ohio
  • Interests
    Engineering, improving my Mooney, Working on old cars ( Restoring 57 BMW Isetta).
  • Reg #
    N78984
  • Model
    1962 M20C

Recent Profile Visitors

2,158 profile views

Buckeyechuck's Achievements

Collaborator

Collaborator (7/14)

  • Dedicated
  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

38

Reputation

  1. Buckeyechuck
    I found the bottom seal to be a bit short of the groove so it seems to be pushed down out of the groove and could be allowing air to escape to the lower engine compartment as Takair has stated above. I’m going have it repositioned it to tighten it up. Will post results when the annual is complete.
  2. Buckeyechuck
    Out of slot as I was starting to remove the top of cowl. Stopped to take photos. Thanks for all the ideas. There are some large gaps at the starter. Any closure ideas? Would this have much effect on air to #4?
  3. Buckeyechuck
    Plan on contacting them tomorrow. Wanted to do some research before that as I know they’ve got to be swamped with similar requests.
  4. Buckeyechuck started following Lasar Cowl Closure , Lycoming Connecting Rod Bushing AD 2024-21-02 , 1963 M20D/C Nose Gear Truss Dents and 1 other
  5. Buckeyechuck
    My engine was rebuilt by Penn Yann in 2020. They provide a detailed itemized parts list. Mine includes the affected rod bushings. I’m outside the affected dates but how do you know how long the bushings were in their inventory before being installed. Like ArtVandelay stated above, without serial numbers how do you know?
  6. Buckeyechuck
    I started taking my airplane apart for annual today and took some photos of the doghouse. I used the lighting technique to look for openings and found some mostly at the front bottom in front of #2 & 4 cylinders. Will discuss with my A&P a plan to close up. Also may use some RTV at the top rear were I can’t tape as well and a bit of light is showing through. Not sure if this will fix my issue but can’t hurt any.
  7. Buckeyechuck
    Worked in heavy industry (Engineering) for 50 years. When you make a statement that suggests something is idiot resistant, along comes a bigger idiot.
  8. Buckeyechuck
    Had mine repaired at Lasar. Very pleased with the results. Note the adjustable tabs to keep the damage from happening again. I also installed the placard showing turn limits. Only problem is you cannot see it when pushing the airplane back in the hangar.
  9. Buckeyechuck
    Buy a good nibler or find a good sheet metal shop.
  10. Buckeyechuck
    Climb at full rich and 26” mp/2500rpm. I think the carb is set slightly rich as I get a bit of engine roughness coming downhill and under 22” mp.
  11. Buckeyechuck
    Cowl flaps are set to open 1”, might be a bit more. I never close them.
  12. Buckeyechuck
    Thank for a plan for trying to tighten up the doghouse. Originally when we reinstalled the engine we fabricated new seals for around the generator and starter and for the cowl opening from red rubber. After having the initial temperature issues I purchased a seal kit from GeeBee. We have installed a part of that kit. I will do the light leakage testing as soon as I get into the annual. I will also try to take some photos to share.
  13. Buckeyechuck
    Carb is a 10-3878-R S/N G-50-8582. Was overhauled as part of the engine rebuild.
  14. Buckeyechuck
    I’ve been away for most of three months rehabbing a relative from broken hip. Hope to head home this week - finally. Will check my carb number. Heading into my annual soon after I get home. I will share some photos of my dog house then. My oil cooler lines have been re-routed along the cowl and up the firewall in back.
  15. Buckeyechuck
    I bump up to 450-460 on no 4 for a few minutes on 4. That’s with climb speed at 130 and 26”mp/2500 rpm. #3 is about 15 degrees cooler. Cruise is 405-410 on no.4 and 385 on 3. 1 and 2 are 340 climb and 320 cruise. We reworked the doghouse in detail when installing the engine. Replaced all the grommets where plug wires penetrate the doghouse. Sealed joints with high temp RTV. used metal tape on all of the seams. Don’t know what more I could do without modifications.
  16. Buckeyechuck
    Anyone out there have a Lasar Cowl Closure for a C model they’d like to sell? Looking for anything I can to reduce back cylinder temps. 100 hours on Penn Yann rebuild and still hot on 3 and 4. Mostly #4. Lasar is out of stock and doesn’t seem to be close to restocking.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.