65MooneyPilot

No you can not post this on the forum because aircraft parts require FAA oversight when they are repaired. So if the shop is not certified by the FAA they are taking a risk with their business. Many alternator repair places have gone through this.

Thanks for the update. The Cherokee is a great learning airplane. You can also move up in the Piper aircraft. I have flown a lot of them over the years. The Cherokee 235 is a nice aircraft and the Cherokee 6-300 is a great plane. Multi engine Seminole is another good training plane. All ATP schools use them and I got my Multi engine commercial instrument in it and my ATP. So good luck and fly safe.

I just had both my eyes done and it has been a good experience. Before the surgery my left eye was the better eye and now after surgery my right eye is super clear. With the new lenses everything is brighter. It’s like having a car that you have to replace or buff out the headlight lens on. I had astigmatism and upgraded to have that removed. Now no glasses needed except reading glasses. Four weeks of eyedrops three time a day, no heavy lifting for a week and no swimming for a month to keep bacteria out until fully healed. No restrictions on flying.

I just looked at the IM manuals and it looks like the connector on the KT76A has more connections and is different. The trays have different p/n’s. KT76 only has 12 connections and the KT76A has 15 connections. The connectors are labeled differently with letters and the KT76 are numbers.

Yes, OK got it.

See if your FBO can order it for you or who ever they sell to. I know people that own maintenance shops that should be able to buy it for you. Just let me know.

Vantage plane plastics K130103-9 for the plastic part as depicted in the IPB is what I installed. It looks like the two pictures of the parts are slightly different because the part I installed has mount screws on the right and left sides. The other pic just has mount screws on the left only.

Just had to rivet the plate to the plastic.

I changed mine several years ago. Here is what I changed. Is this what you are looking for? @cliffy

I bought a Mini plus a pivot case and mount it to the side window. It does not block the instrument panel and not much of the outside view. You can remove it quickly if you need to.

I have replaced two control cables in the last 6 years. I ordered them from LASAR and when I received the factory cables they both had McFarland tags on them. So just go to McFarland first. It is where the factory cables are made now.

55 gallon drum, band clamp heater, hand sprayer. This setup was certified by the FAA. Just had to log the temp and mix ratio before using.

Yes, then type 1 deicing fluid is for you.

Type 1 deicing fluid is propylene glycol mixed with water 50/50 mix heated to 150 degrees F. Good for removing ice contamination on the airplane. Many years ago we had a 55 gallon drum of it with a band clamp heater on the drum. We put it in a weed sprayer and sprayed it on the top of MD-80 wings before they installed heaters. This is a good deicing solution. Obviously if it is still precipitating you cancel the flight if you don’t have FIKI capability.

Yes excellent point. I was thinking about the 5606 turning into pancake syrup while in the system too long. It happened to me and I did not realize it would do that. It got to the point that the breaks barely worked. I removed the break pistons and cleaned them out. I don’t know if the new synthetic does that but I doubt it.

Yes hydraulic fluids that are compatible with 5606 are 83282 or 87257. They are synthetic and fire resistant. There is a thread in here talking about the new fluids and whether they are approved in our Mooneys by Mooney. Hydraulic Fluids Most aircraft manufactures require specific fluids for their hydraulic systems. Always refer to your aircraft manufacturer's maintenance instructions for the proper fluid. All Grove brake systems incorporate Buna-N (Nitrile) O-Ring seals that are compatible with MIL-H-5606 hydraulic fluid which has been the aircraft industry standard for many years. MIL-H-5606 hydraulic is a mineral-oil based fluid with excellent operating properties over a temperature range of -65°F to 274°F. A major deficiency of MIL-H-5606 is its high degree of flammability. Because of this, the commercial aircraft industry has developed and uses hydraulic systems based on phosphate-ester based hydraulic fluids. However, these fluids ARE NOT compatible with MIL-H-5606 or its systems. The military led the way in developing a more flame resistant hydraulic fluid that is compatible and miscible with MIL-H-5606. As a result, a synthetic-hydrocarbon based fluid MIL-H-83282 (now MIL-PRF-83282) was developed which is superior to MIL-H-5606 (now MIL-PRF-5606) in fire resistant properties, but lacks good qualities in low temperature viscosity. More recently MIL-PRF 87257 was introduced in order to address the concerns over the low temperature viscosity weakness of MIL-PRF-83282. Bottom Line: MIL-H-5606 has been replaced with MIL-PRF-83282 and MIL-PRF-87257. Each of these fluids, and their associated systems, are compatible and miscible with each other. You can mix any combination and/or amount of these fluids together without any ill effects. If, and/or when, you change over from MIL-H-5606 you can either: 1. drain your hydraulic system and refill with MIL-PRF-83282 or MIL-PRF-87257, or 2. merely top off the reservoir with MIL-PRF-83282 or MIL-PRF-87257 as needed. Both methods have been used with great success with no reported problems

He might have one left

I think this is what you are looking for. I guess you did not want to be extorted for a simple nut plate. The block looks better for almost the same price.

This is true, I replaced the main gear discs with a press.

When I removed mine I did not take the discs out. LASAR Did it when I sent it in. Here are some pictures that were posted before the server got switched and a lot of the pictures were lost.

Don’t want to state the obvious but get yourself a maintenance manual and follow the directions. Read the procedure all the way thru before you start.

I changed my flap cable wire two years ago because mine broke at the end of the runway attempting to set TO flaps. Dan from LASAR sold me new inner wire and I installed it without removing the outer sleeve. I sprayed lube into the sleeve then. Works nice and smooth now.

You need to pull out the indicator and send it in for overhaul. It will not take long and all or instrumentation will be working. Remember the three things you need to ask yourself before you takeoff, Is it Legal?, Is it safe?, Is it smart? Mooney put that gauge in because you need to know that information when you fly.

Check this thread out. @cliffy has a lot of good info.

I saw a picture of that this morning and that looks like a good solution.