Bob E

If you are tired of the dot card but don't want the expense of certified/built-in: Posted October 7 Although I have a TSO'd USB power source built into my panel, I use the cigarette lighter socket for auxiliary USB power, and found a nifty little adapter that also includes a carbon monoxide detector. The CO detector has a digital readout (blue LED between the two sockets) as well as a very loud buzzer that goes off if it detects the presence of CO. It's on whenever the master is on, and it works great. I tested it by lighting a match a few feet away when the aircraft was in the hangar. That triggered a warning in about 3 seconds when the indicator reached about 20 ppm. Had it for almost 3 years now. It's on Amazon for $34. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GCQR19G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Although I have a TSO'd USB power source built into my panel, I use the cigarette lighter socket for auxiliary USB power, and found a nifty little adapter that also includes a carbon monoxide detector. The CO detector has a digital readout (blue LED between the two sockets) as well as a very loud buzzer that goes off if it detects the presence of CO. It's on whenever the master is on, and it works great. I tested it by lighting a match a few feet away when the aircraft was in the hangar. That triggered a warning in about 3 seconds when the indicator reached about 20 ppm. Had it for almost 3 years now. It's on Amazon for $34. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GCQR19G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For what it's worth, I couldn't find any commercially-available iPad mounts that I liked, so I fashioned a couple myself, using old Garmin GPS yoke mounts plus metal bookends, and a spring clamp at the top of each with duct tape to pad it. I've used them for about five years now. In hot weather /direct sun I take the iPads out of their cases.

My two cents' worth: Your panel is already nicely-equipped. If it's functionality you're interested in, there's no need to ditch the 430. It's Garmin canbus compatible so it will interface nicely with the FlightStream as well as the G5's and will grab ADS-B data from the transponder so you'll get the ADS-B display on your iPads. I love the FlightStream 210. You can enter flight plans or route changes on your iPad and they will automatically update the 430 as well as the copilot iPad if you have one. (As a practical matter you need to select procedures in the 430 and let them update the iPads rather than the reverse.) I have an M20C as well, and I prefer to have the G5's horizontal rather than vertical. Easier to scan, and it's nice having the HSI and glide path on the right-hand G5 right next to the 430 map. Horizontal placement also makes it MUCH easier to adjust the altitude and heading bugs, and the brightness if need be. The magnetometer for the G5's needs to be at the end of one wing at least a couple of feet from the position light (if it's an LED) to avoid interference. Here's a photo of my panel. It's a "poor man's version of glass" but it's very efficient, easy to scan, and intuitive. I use iPad minis not only because of the size, but because they are brighter. I take them out of the case in hot weather so they don't overheat. The empty space on the right is for a GFC-500 when I can afford it someday. I actually have a 400W (the 430 without the NAV/COM radios) since I already had the two KX-155's and I like not having a single point of failure.

If you're flying VFR, an autopilot should be way down on your list. You need: a good VFR GPS with Bluetooth such as the Garmin Aera 660 with a panel dock. It should be at the top-center where the audio panel is now. a digital com radio such as a Garmin GTR-200 or an iCom IC-A220. Get rid of the ancient Terra navcom and whatever that is above it. Think about whether you ever want to use VORs and if so get a navcom, with a VOR display to the right of the turn & slip, instead of just a com radio. a mode-S transponder that will send ADS-B traffic info to your GPS or to your iPad running ForeFlight As long as the attitude indicator holds out, just keep using it. When it needs an overhaul, that's the time to upgrade to a digital attitude indicator G-5 or an AV-30-C. Same with the heading indicator. Get rid of the DME; you don't need it for VFR flight.

Jimmy, your latest guide is far more useful than those menu-style "valuation" calculators. Yours takes into account the special aspects of value that only apply to Mooneys - such as the state of the donuts - and does so in a thorough and thoughtful way. Using your guide to come up with a REAL value for a particular Mooney will take maybe half an hour rather than 3 minutes, but going into all the details means that the resultant number is going to be realistic and not arbitrary. Many thanks!!

Central OH base annual cost 2023: My shop is familiar with this aircraft and has done the annuals for the past decade.

Very few celebrities actually own their own jets. They get more privacy and far more flexibility by using NetJets (which is essentially a huge private airline) or some other private jet service that guarantees them the right-size jet for the flights they need for the number of people they want to bring along. So in most cases, actually tracking a celebrity would require knowing which private jet they are boarding and when. Such info is almost impossible to find, since NetJets never discloses passenger info.

Before I could afford a hangar, my M20C sat on the ramp in Columbus, Ohio for 30 years. If you need tips on how to preserve a ramp Mooney, let me know. If you have the all-metal original factory throttle, mixture, and prop controls, unless there are problems that graphite lube won't solve, the only one I'd recommend replacing would be the prop control. I tried painting the throttle and mixture controls. Mixture control looks great. The throttle control doesn't take paint well since it's handled too much so I ended up peeling the paint back off. Replacements should be easy to find. Just search this forum for "vernier." Some people prefer red for the prop control and blue for mixture; not sure if there's a standard color scheme?

Same. Find a belt with solid leather, not bonded.

Yeah, when I reupholstered my seats with the Airtex set, that's when I also replaced the rollers. My AI entered the Airtex seats and really liked the nylon rollers but didn't see a need to mention them.

I think you'd have to cut off the flange -- there's no play between the sides of the roller and the seat frame holding the roller axle.

Ragsf15e: YOU ARE RIGHT! Thanks for this. My profuse apologies to everyone who bought the Grainger rollers and noticed that they're too loose -- I totally forgot that I also used bushings! Here are the bushings. I don't have the receipt but I may have gotten them from Home Depot. The cost was negligible. NOTE: You have to cut the bushing in half:

Maybe, that's an interesting point. I'm pretty sure they aren't DIY rollers, since the shop that did my annuals back then obtained and installed the replacements! Just for fun I'll check; I'm pretty sure I saved the old ones that weren't split.

The nylon rollers aren't loose at all on my '65 C. I'd recommend just giving them a try. If for some reason the're too loose when installed on your seats, you've lost less than ten bucks, and at least you have some nice rollers you can use for something else!