FBV

My implementation would not be permanently installed. A single 2pin molex connector under the panel would be the only interface I need. VFR only. I would never trust this stuff with my life. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m working on something very similar. Heading hold for my Accutrak. I’m using arduino hardware. I’m sourcing a LDO as you need not only +300 mV but also -300mV. Without the negative voltage, you’ll have an autopilot than can only make left turns. So a PWM with RC filter will not get the job done, unless I’m missing something. Hence why I’m posting.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Its that time of year... getting hot. Attached is the Bill of Materials (BOM) of the home made cooler project I made last year. There may be a couple of fluid interconnects missing, but this gives to the list of everything I used. Some extra screws and a tube of RTV are also needed. Plane cool BOM.xlsx

I recently upgraded my panel to a 830. I have a JPI 700 with brand new sensor harnesses and FF transducer for sale. The head unit is about 2 years old. Asking $1,200. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I stumbled across this thread about a month ago. I had a leak in a servo and Brittain has no closed its doors. I carefully measured and did some research on the Bellowfram website. I found the 3-350-212-DCJ to be the best match for the Mooney servo. I got the lady to send me a free sample. But she said that they are about $30 per normally. After winding it with about 3 layers of electrical tape, (which is what Jerry at Brittain did), its going to work great! So if you get a tear, order one of these and you'll be good! This is for a aileron or rudder servo. The step servo is a different part, but I'd be willing to bet that they have one that works. The ones in their catalog with an asterisks next to them are standard stock items. Others are custom order.. Brad

I have one I need to sell if this doesn’t work out for you. PM me if needed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You are correct. I was mistaken. I have a JPI EDM 700. I sent you an e-mail yesterday on it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have an almost new 730 with a brand new wire harness that I need to sell. I’ll send you a PM Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I found a couple leaks in my servo today. My pc system has been pulling to the left for the last couple flights. Anybody have a spare they’d sell me? Any advice on how to patch them? I tried a bike patch kit and it worked for about 6 months. But with two holes now, it really needs to be replaced. Brittain is closed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Finished the panel. It’s been about a year of planning and probably 200 hours of work. First flight yesterday was true gratification. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, I wanted the accutrak where the gear lights are. Would not fit. The sub panel had to be trimmed a lot just for the lights and vacuum gauge. The angle of the left panel mounted on rubber shocks is critical to making things fit too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I worked through a lot of scenarios to figure out this layout. I didn’t want the Auto Pilot head on the right panel, so this layout worked best. If spent a lot of money with Brittain in the last year and they sent me a brand new vertically oriented faceplate for my accutrak. So it should work out great. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Per my layout, my vacuum driven DG is really deep and it hit the control column behind the panel. So I either had to revert to square one or settle for a non standard 6-pack layout. I decided on the later. I’m in way deep on the existing panel and have no time to change the layout again. Yes, had lots of trimming to do. Dremel, snips, nibblers are all required tools. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Worked on the panel again today. No power yet. I still need to redo the buss bar. But getting closer.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My m20E has a Brittain stabilization gyro that is completely independent of the turn coordinator. It’s located up above the pilot’s left knee. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I should start by saying I’m a mechanical engineer. I designed the sheet metal panel in CAD and the engraving artwork in Adobe Illustrator. I had a friend with a laser at his place of business that did the engraving as a favor. So I got it all done for the cost of a nice bottle of Bourbon. I’m frugal though and spent hours working on this myself. I did pay $175 for the powder coat though. It came with a matching can of spray paint for touch up. To have it done, I’d expect you’d pay $800 for the panel and another $300 for the artwork & laser. Here is a pick of the current status.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had it lasered to removed the powder coat. It exposes the raw metal beneath. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I built this wiring harness myself. No smoke on first power on!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Got my panel laser engraved today, built a felt lined glove box too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I finally settled on a layout for my panel. I just got it powder coated. It’s going to be a really busy weekend.kitchen pass has been pre-approved. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm about to get my newly powder coated panel laser etched with the artwork shown here. I'd like to ask the forum if there are additional placards that are needed other than the RPM restrictions and the ELT warning. This is for a '66 model E. The avionics going in have no requirements that I'm aware of. GTN650, GMA340, Icom210a, KT76a, JPI 830, garmin G5, KI206 CDI. My existing panel had a truncated minimum TO/landing checklist on a sticker that was on the panel, but I'm thinking that is not required. Time is short and your feedback is appreciated.

Anybody have a spare one of these they would sell me? I need one and would prefer not to start from scratch again. If so, please PM me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m going to have a shop make a new badge for my co-pilot yoke. It will be laser engraved powder coat. So it should be scratch resistant and look sharp for years. As I get only one made, it would be cheaper to share the cost if others were interesting in getting one too. I have the logo artwork from the Mooney factory. Not looking to make a profit here. Just want to spread the offer to others that may need a facelift on their pre-J model. I’d suspect that parts would be about $40 each or less. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I appreciate the excitement here and the cool things that Dynon is working on. Such a sexy set of pictures will quickly hijack this thread into “what’s coming this summer”. To get back to the question, does anybody out there have experience with a panel update that involves removing hardware cables to pass through the sub panel? Do they have to be completely pulled out and re-threaded through the firewall? Or can the knobs and flanges be removed and reassembled into a new panel from the cockpit side? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk