Mark942

I have had some success with stuck screws or screws that have rounded out hex drives by taking a "small" dremal tool and using the smallest cutting disk. I use the disk on a piece of junk metal to wear it's diameter down to that of the diameter of the screw head. Then carefully cut a slot in the screw head. You will probably go through several disks. Then, with a Flat Blade screw driver and hard force into the screw to keep it engaged, you can some times get it to back out. Spraying the screw with a good penetrating oil such as PB Blaster several times over 3 or 4 days prior to extraction ". If this fails, then you are pretty much left with drilling out the screw. Use a drill that is about 0.020" under the "Minor" diameter of screw. Google the Major and Minor diameter of the screw you are working with. Then use an "Easy Out" screw extractor. I have pasted a location at Amazon that has several sets. You will need one that goes that small. I have found that the key is to put a lot of force into the screw to get a good "bite" on it. Also, last thought. Make sure the drill bit is aligned with the screw shank. This is kind of difficult laying under the belly. If possible, have a friend help by looking at the drill bit shank and telling you "left, right, this way that way" so you are aligned. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=ezout+screw+extractor&crid=2UCNEWB5AMJQ0&sprefix=ezout%2Caps%2C171&ref=nb_sb_ss_p13n-expert-pd-ops-ranker_6_5 Best of luck, -mark

I replaced the original equipment generator with a Plane Power 70 amp alternator 8 years ago when my wife first bought the plane for me (another story for a different time), and I had to cut around on the baffle about an inch or so as I remember and there was another area that was exposed to allow air through so I custom fit baffling to make it match up. Have had no heat issues and the alternator has been flawless. -mark

Thanks everyone. More helpful and accurate than ChatGPT or Google. What a GREAT resource for us Mooney drivers.

I'd like to replace the burn your fingers, current-hog, ancient red spot lights we have in the ceiling with leds. Any suggestions? I'd really like to find a nice set of lithium compact directional lamps with on/off switch that could be clip mounted. Battery powered to provide non - ships power lights. My panel has it's own lighting so this would provide a good independent backup lighting system.

Thanks again guys, -mark

Thanks guys, I'm going to ask my AP/IA to take a look at it with me. When I first got the plane it was the same, and I asked my AP at the time (an old timer) if that was ok, and he said yeah, they're all like that so I never worried about it but always check it as part of my pr-flight walk around to make sure it has not changed. My current AP/IA has looked at it and said it is alright, but I want it really checked out. Thanks again guys, -mark

A little off topic, but should you be able to lift the tail nose cone about a 1/4" during preflight inspection? I've always been able to do this. Kind of bothers me, but trim and stability during flight is perfect. Thanks, -mark

Let us know what Savvy has to say. Photos can be deceiving, and not under a Black Light, but looks to me like a defect in the paint and a bit of rust under the paint crack leaching out. I've seen a lot of cracks in medical orthopedic devices that are penetrant inspected. That looks like micro welding inconsistencies to me that have been there since manufacture. I agree with others that swapping it out for a salvage unit is not value added. Please keep us posted, and best of luck. -mark

I have a 64E. My Trim indicator works fine, but it is difficult to really look at since it's located down by my shins, and it is not illuminated. I practiced takeoffs until I had a setting that I liked the most. Then I placed a 1/2 inch Magic Marker line along the edge of the cover that goes directly over the tail hinge and slides along the tail as trim is changed. Now, looking at this "indicator" mark is simply a part of my walk around checklist. I also filed a small 1/16 inch rounded notch in the edge of the trim wheel in the cabin. I can "feel" this notch as I adjust the trim. I know it should be at 12 o-clock high with the mark at the edge of the cover. Very fool proof, and intuitive feedback to me about where the trim is set. If the "indicator mark" starts to fade, it takes 2 minutes about once a year to freshen it up. Just how I do it.

Meigs was GREAT. I have landed there multiple times in a Cherokee 140 back in the day. Fly up and land, walk to McCormic Place to see equipment at a trade show, then fly home all in one day. Several night take off's out of Meigs. All VFR. Young pilot afraid of comms with the big guys at ATC. Later landed at MidWay in my little puddle jumper and got Red Carpet treatment at the FBO. Cheaper overnight parking than in the car garage. Those were the days my friend, we thought they would never end...

Corn_Flake, will your mounting allow the visor to swing to the side window?? I have a 64E and need new visors and would like to be able to swing them to the side window like modern cars do. Thanks, -mark

So, just to go on record. Greed has no limits. The easier the scam, the more likely it will happen. Using ADSB (Federal System) to enable a private company to convince the local airport this is found money ??? What is the down side to simply refusing to pay that specific fee?? Probably less than a $100 fee. Now the local airport has to put effort into collecting. Probably the end of the effort. Just my 2 Cents.

The topic is flying IFR without an AP. I just stated that because of technical issues with my AP and complexity of my new IFD 550, that while Learning to fly IFR by hand I felt behind the airplane. Lots to do, while maintaining a heading and altitude along with all the other new demands of IFR flight that I originally felt behind the airplane. That's why we spend so many hours doing the training. We train, and then train some more until we master it. Then maintain proficiency by practicing more hours than are required by the regs. I think almost everyone feels Behind the Airplane in their early hours of training ???

I did 95% of my IFR training by hand flying. I have an Avidyne IFD550 with Stec 60-2 AP with VS. My instructor was not familiar enough with the IFD or the Stec to help me figure out the buttonology so I was taught hand flying and behind the airplane all the time. Got through it but at 70 years old, it seemed harder than I remember doing in a C140 with wing leveler 40 years earlier (never took check ride because of failed GS on VOR and then work). Fast forward to a more complex plane, a VERY capable GPS navigator and an AP that did strange things (about $6000 in shop time spread over 3 separate shops and a year of frustration) finally got it wired correctly, but at the time I was doing my training it simply added to the confusion. Now with everything working, I find flying in actual IMC without a hood easier than the old fashioned hood. My bifocals made it hard for me to use foggles. Now add in the AP and I feel I'm ahead of the airplane. I will sometimes turn it off part way into the final approach course and hand fly just for the fun of it. Just wish I could find a simulator that had my equipment in it (IFD and Stec).

What does this topic have to do with Mooneys or aviation in general. MooneySpace is one of the few places I can visit on the internet that is NOT political. Yes, I am certain we all have our opinions, but we don't preach or discuss them on the forum. It is about helping each other as pilots and owners of a Mooney. I really don't want to see this forum head down the slippery path of how divided our country is now and which state (Red or Blue) is best. The originator of this post has made it clear his position and other's have tip toed around the issue. Where is our Moderator to simply state that this is not a proper topic for this forum and shut this thread down.