Mark942

Muncie Aviation, Muncie, Indiana. At my biannual Static Cert about 3 years ago, they found that my Altimeter failed the required accuracy. They removed the old one, and installed one they had rebuilt for $1K. It has worked perfectly for 3 years. -mark

No inter cooler. -mark

I have a 64 M20E with a RayJay. I live in the Midwest flat lands and the only mountains I fly over are the Appalachian and Smoky which don't really count as mountains compared to the Rockies. Having said that, after about 7K feet we all see our max power start falling off and climbing at 500 ft per minute much less a IFR required ft per NM case becomes harder if not impossible. The RayJay is just like a second throttle. Start dialing it in and you get your MP back. I have never flown over 10K but with my setup, I can get 28" MP at 10K if I wanted. Pretty impressive. The key is to have a really tight system so you don't loose the extra air out through leaks. I do have to pay attention to cooling higher up and with the RayJay engaged. I notice about a 20 deg F oil temp increase and CHT's push 380F. I also give up LOP above 8K and go ROP to help with cooling. I will some times run 25/25 at 8K or 9 K if on a long cross country. Otherwise I usually don't engage the turbo and cruise at 65% power but my AP tells me I am not helping the engine and should run it harder. -mark

Thanks for the update in the reg. Might be important some day for me. I have sent a note to my AP/IA in case he was not aware of it. -mark

I have had some success with stuck screws or screws that have rounded out hex drives by taking a "small" dremal tool and using the smallest cutting disk. I use the disk on a piece of junk metal to wear it's diameter down to that of the diameter of the screw head. Then carefully cut a slot in the screw head. You will probably go through several disks. Then, with a Flat Blade screw driver and hard force into the screw to keep it engaged, you can some times get it to back out. Spraying the screw with a good penetrating oil such as PB Blaster several times over 3 or 4 days prior to extraction ". If this fails, then you are pretty much left with drilling out the screw. Use a drill that is about 0.020" under the "Minor" diameter of screw. Google the Major and Minor diameter of the screw you are working with. Then use an "Easy Out" screw extractor. I have pasted a location at Amazon that has several sets. You will need one that goes that small. I have found that the key is to put a lot of force into the screw to get a good "bite" on it. Also, last thought. Make sure the drill bit is aligned with the screw shank. This is kind of difficult laying under the belly. If possible, have a friend help by looking at the drill bit shank and telling you "left, right, this way that way" so you are aligned. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=ezout+screw+extractor&crid=2UCNEWB5AMJQ0&sprefix=ezout%2Caps%2C171&ref=nb_sb_ss_p13n-expert-pd-ops-ranker_6_5 Best of luck, -mark

I replaced the original equipment generator with a Plane Power 70 amp alternator 8 years ago when my wife first bought the plane for me (another story for a different time), and I had to cut around on the baffle about an inch or so as I remember and there was another area that was exposed to allow air through so I custom fit baffling to make it match up. Have had no heat issues and the alternator has been flawless. -mark

Thanks everyone. More helpful and accurate than ChatGPT or Google. What a GREAT resource for us Mooney drivers.

I'd like to replace the burn your fingers, current-hog, ancient red spot lights we have in the ceiling with leds. Any suggestions? I'd really like to find a nice set of lithium compact directional lamps with on/off switch that could be clip mounted. Battery powered to provide non - ships power lights. My panel has it's own lighting so this would provide a good independent backup lighting system.

Thanks again guys, -mark

Thanks guys, I'm going to ask my AP/IA to take a look at it with me. When I first got the plane it was the same, and I asked my AP at the time (an old timer) if that was ok, and he said yeah, they're all like that so I never worried about it but always check it as part of my pr-flight walk around to make sure it has not changed. My current AP/IA has looked at it and said it is alright, but I want it really checked out. Thanks again guys, -mark

A little off topic, but should you be able to lift the tail nose cone about a 1/4" during preflight inspection? I've always been able to do this. Kind of bothers me, but trim and stability during flight is perfect. Thanks, -mark

Let us know what Savvy has to say. Photos can be deceiving, and not under a Black Light, but looks to me like a defect in the paint and a bit of rust under the paint crack leaching out. I've seen a lot of cracks in medical orthopedic devices that are penetrant inspected. That looks like micro welding inconsistencies to me that have been there since manufacture. I agree with others that swapping it out for a salvage unit is not value added. Please keep us posted, and best of luck. -mark

I have a 64E. My Trim indicator works fine, but it is difficult to really look at since it's located down by my shins, and it is not illuminated. I practiced takeoffs until I had a setting that I liked the most. Then I placed a 1/2 inch Magic Marker line along the edge of the cover that goes directly over the tail hinge and slides along the tail as trim is changed. Now, looking at this "indicator" mark is simply a part of my walk around checklist. I also filed a small 1/16 inch rounded notch in the edge of the trim wheel in the cabin. I can "feel" this notch as I adjust the trim. I know it should be at 12 o-clock high with the mark at the edge of the cover. Very fool proof, and intuitive feedback to me about where the trim is set. If the "indicator mark" starts to fade, it takes 2 minutes about once a year to freshen it up. Just how I do it.

Meigs was GREAT. I have landed there multiple times in a Cherokee 140 back in the day. Fly up and land, walk to McCormic Place to see equipment at a trade show, then fly home all in one day. Several night take off's out of Meigs. All VFR. Young pilot afraid of comms with the big guys at ATC. Later landed at MidWay in my little puddle jumper and got Red Carpet treatment at the FBO. Cheaper overnight parking than in the car garage. Those were the days my friend, we thought they would never end...

Corn_Flake, will your mounting allow the visor to swing to the side window?? I have a 64E and need new visors and would like to be able to swing them to the side window like modern cars do. Thanks, -mark