Kelpro999

These bolts left and right should be checked through the exhaust cavities. Being loose adds to excessive rudder pedal looseness. Tightening them will test your tool modifying ability.

Update; purchased a new one from LASAR/Mooney and it also came with the same problematic hole locations, identical to the replacement I purchased before. Frank requested I send back my original cracked one back. I did so they used it to check their tooling. Evidently there was some errors made when they increased hole sizes and the tooling during an engineering change late’62. Frank says 17 have been sold since 2017, but only mine was returned. That may explain why the drawings match my original part & part number but not the other 16 sold that were not returned and as far as we know were installed. Anyway, they were able to press form a new one for me without holes so at least they are still capable of press forming vintage parts.

Agreed.

The C gets graphite in about four locations but anyways, the idea is to lubricate the top of the shock shaft under the retainment collar as it passes through the gear frame then taxi test. If that doesn’t do it, then move onto loosening the shock, lower bolt and taxi again. Eventually bolt by bolt the problem should be found. If it is in fact, the rubber rubbing on the shock shaft, then some tire talc can eliminate that. Without hearing the squeak ourselves, we could be completely wrong and possibly a wing skin, frame or spar issue.

It’s literally specified in the Mooney service manual.

Give your shock disc retainers a little shot of graphite powder below the collar.

That’s from children chewing on window sills while watching cool airplanes fly by.

I’m for removing all nonproductive energy consumption on any ascent as soon as possible.

Does George have another profile?

When I’m looking for sounds like that I use a three-quarter inch 3 foot long piece of A/C hose. It helps put my ear in places I can’t get to. You can also remove the alternator/generator belt, tie it back and retest.

At 58 years old things tend to leak from time to time.

It’s the thinner one that’s been work-hardening and cracking. The new one I picked up some time ago and never checked it against the cooler thinking why would that dimension be wrong but here I am. Sometimes great deals are not so great when visibility improves.

That’s the route I have to go at this point. The part is NOS that was sitting on the shelf somewhere on eBay with the correct part number, but no supporting paperwork. IA scratching his head along with me. Frank couldn’t trace when and where it was made with only the Part number etching prior to me spraying primer. six week lead time.

The photo of the new part setting on top of my old part has penciled in dimensions, and printed dimensions are what I received from Frank as what it’s supposed to be.

I know this is an old thread, but is there any possibility you remember if you had any issues mounting the cooler to the four bolt pattern in the new part? I have a revision G that two of the four bolt holes are approximately 1/8 inch off. Your photo looks similar to mine. Kevin

It might be OK if the photos were before any work was performed. What was the result of each inspection? Looking at the fuel cap and landing gear it most likely has lower wing spar cap corrosion.

Thanks for the heads up, it seems to be more common with special interest groups now. If you don’t mind us asking what payment type was used? Some are clever yet some are a little obvious with vague responses or questions posted overtime. I wouldn’t be surprised if we already have a new member. Sorry this happened to you.

Exiting the runway at 75 can be catastrophic.

We’re practically neighbors, I’m over at ksee. My ocd is getting the best of me looking at your missing grease fitting

No cracks in the photos, maybe somewhere else?

I have mine removed. It looks like starting from the fin spar cutout and plenty of soap, feeding it forward around the leading edge and back out the other side cutout will work. It has to be trimmed at the spar area inside edges then the tails fed rearward after trimming the length.

More like touchdown was successful but went downhill from there.

Might be difficult to diagnose given the short problematic period but measuring voltage at each positive connection from the starter back to the battery during cranking will identify the voltage drop point. Measure each point with the negative voltmeter terminal to the negative battery post. The problem may still be found cold yet not to the point of no crank if volt drop is one volt or more at any check point. Also measure voltage between the starter housing (gnd) and the neg battery post while cranking for overall ground path back. Remember, you are only comparing battery cranking voltage vs system check point voltage during these tests.

Belly strobe only on my C

Arcticair cooler system works very well. Use one in a six-300 cabin with no complaints. Haven’t attempted to fit in the Mooney luggage compartment but it does fit on rear seats. A little costly for what it is until you use one.