toto

This is the biggest reason I decided to burn the real estate on a non-R GTX and a non-R GMA. I didn’t have exactly the same situation as OP, but my GTN once went blank and rebooted while on a long XC flight. It probably took about 10 seconds total, but it felt like 10 minutes. It never happened before or since, and the avionics shop kind of shrugged. I chalked it up to a dodgy software release, and felt better with the next one.

@A64Pilot might have input on the C140

I had the same reaction. For me, “approach” is not synonymous with “coupled approach” so it wasn’t obvious at first that this was an autopilot discussion. But I think that’s where we landed. That said, I do like the basic fact pattern followed by a “what do you do” question - always interesting to hear different takes.

350 would be a steal. The ones I see on Walmart now are not that great, but maybe there are some locally available for less

That looks way less scary in the screenshot than I remember it being at full speed

Yeah, removing the 100 (knot) speed cap requires the $250/mo plan. They did announce a $10/10g plan yesterday for occasional roaming - which would be great for aircraft use. But the 100kt limitation is still in place for now.

The runaway trim event that I experienced was a really long time ago in a C182RG - I vaguely remember fiddling with the AP disconnect switch while we were both hauling back on the yoke, but I don't remember much about the installed equipment. What sticks with me was how fast it happened and how much force was required to overpower the trim.

I owned a Piper with electric trim and no AP, and it had a large "Electric Trim" on/off button right in front of the yoke with an integrated CB.

This discussion seems mostly to be about autopilot behavior and management, but the one time this happened to me "for real," it was a runaway electric trim with the autopilot off. A quick thumb movement to trim forward on the yoke-mounted trim switch, and suddenly the plane was pitching down as fast as the trim motor could spin. I was in the left seat, and it took all the strength that two of us had to overpower the trim while the right-seat person got the CB pulled. It .... sucked.

Yep, lots of us on here fly a J model with a GFC500

I’d be very interested to know more about this hack. You have added an internal GPS receiver to a WiFi-only iPad Mini 6 that’s recognized by iOS?

Apple is very clear that only the cellular iPads have GPS. https://support.apple.com/en-us/111886

That was the reason for my cylinder replacement. The OCR broke and scored the cylinder wall. It didn’t look terrible at a glance, but it was beyond honing. It turns out that my new cylinder is only 85 hours in (thought it was closer to 150, but I checked the log yesterday). It’s an overhauled chrome cylinder, which isn’t what I wanted - but was what the shop could get without waiting weeks or months for a new Lycoming cylinder. Talking to the shop that did the cylinder today, they said that the chrome cylinder does have cast iron rings, so it’s possible that that’s the source of the metal. I don’t want to do anything unnecessarily invasive to the engine, but I don’t want to do something stupid either. If there’s a reasonable chance that this is related to the 85-hour replacement cylinder, it would be good to know that. (This filter would have been used from ~35-85 hours on that cylinder fwiw.)

Do you happen to have pictures of this? I’ve tried to find some online but haven’t had much luck for the IO-360-A.

My oil currently has about 1.5 hours on it. Would you drain the oil to check the screen, or fly it until the next oil change?

This is really helpful, thank you

Interesting, thank you. What made you decide to do an IRAN versus an overhaul?

I took another shot at this with the magnet after letting the filter element dry for another day, and I collected more metal. This stuff is really really fine - teeny tiny little flakes of metal. I tried to collect as much as I could in an envelope (below), but it's really hard to work with - the little bits are covered in oil. Most of what you see in the photo below is just clumps of oil with a ton of little glitter pieces stuck in it. I looked at Lycoming SB 480F (attached), and this doesn't seem to fit cleanly into any of their categories. It's clearly ferrous metal, since it sticks to my magnet, but there's a ton of tiny little pieces. Probably hundreds of them, but all amounting to (I'm guessing) less than 1/4 teaspoon at most. I'll never be able to collect all of them or get a real measurement. The only categories that seem to apply to me are the "10 or fewer short hair-like pieces of metallic metal" (which isn't right for several reasons) or "1/2 teaspoonful" of metal (I don't have anywhere near that much). Going back to the "if metal found" article from Lycoming, these are definitely shiny, flake-like metal, but it's magnetic - not non-magnetic. So I can't find any advice that directly applies. Lycoming SB480F.pdf

+1 for Parks Very convenient to downtown

That seems like a pretty good approach.

The big advantage to the G5 over the 275 is the battery life. If you lose ship’s power in the 275 you have something like 60 minutes of battery, while the G5 is more like four hours. The G5 doesn’t have synthetic vision, so if that’s important to you then the G5 will be a disappointment. I like the longer battery life of the G5, and I also like the square face, which matches better the rest of my panel.

You’re right. I was looking at Lycoming service instruction 1492D, which is more focused on the quantity of debris items.

The Lycoming guidance is useful, but some of it is hard for me to gauge. Like whether it’s 1-9, 10-20 or 20-40 pieces. I may have to give it another go with the magnet and then try to separate and count the tiny little things. I’ll try to get a really accurate count and a really accurate size estimate.

I’m going to let the element dry out over the next day or two and give it another go with the magnet. It was still pretty wet when I looked at it today, and I want to be sure I know how much is really in there. $75 is pretty cheap if the filter analysis gave useful information, but as you said, if it’s really just ferrous vs non-ferrous, I think I already know the answer to that

I didn’t mean an oil analysis - I meant an oil filter analysis, where they examine any debris in the filter element. I have no experience with this, so I don’t know if it’s snake oil. But there are companies that provide the service like https://avlab.com/product/oil-filter-analysis-kit/