jclemens

We have a similar contraption on the wall at my shop. It drains into gallon aeroshell jugs. There are usually half a dozen or so full gallons near it. Funny thing is I don't remember ever using any of it for anything.

That damage is not typical, I will pass this along to my contacts and see if I can get an opinion on repairability of that case. I'll also see about price and availability of an outright case.

You should have asked when you were in my office today, I can update it for you.

All of these replies and not one of you asked for pictures? Sounds like the crack is in a known problem area. There are case modifications approved for Lycoming cases that are intended to prevent case cracks. A repaired and modified case is stronger than one from the factory. There are also mods to add o-rings to the thru studs to prevent leaks, dowels to prevent case fretting, etc. These mods and others are why "boutique" engine shops can produce a better product than the factory. We have all of the cases on engines we build modified just the way we like them. Even if your case is not repairable, replacing the case with a yellow tagged case will get you back in the air for a lot less money.

M20Doc is spot on, thats a sealant. Paint shops usually do that to your plane. It shouldn't be needed to seal, the windows are glued in a Mooney anyways. Just cosmetic.

I used 175 because I set my default altitude at 14500. POH shows 176 Kts @ 75% power at 14k. It goes to 182 @ 18K. That's about as high as I intend to be for now. Until I get some time on this bird and gain some confidence in it I am not going to venture into the flight levels. I haven't even used the O2 system in flight yet. Plan on getting it up into the high teens this weekend though, if everything works out. The Bo is a highly modified 520 powered N35, its 185 knot airplane at 7000 feet if you want to burn the gas. This Mooney will be faster above 18K. Actually with the intercoolr and the wastegate you could go a lot faster, as long as temps stay in check. That is yet to be determined. We completely rebuilt the baffle system, CHT's were fantastic on the first flight. I only made it up to 8500 feet though.

Sadly I have not had the opportunity to fly in an Acclaim. I have worked on several though and I am sure they are great aircraft.

I get bored with them all eventually and move on to something else. Besides, my Bonanzas still faster....

I figured with this many Mooney drivers in one place, there must be a M20K pilot that wants to share his performance numbers for Foreflight aircraft setup. I left the POH in the plane at the hangar so I pulled these settings out of my, er, umm, off the internet Love to hear what others have found works for them. Taxi/Takeoff Fuel Use: blank Climb TAS: 100 Climb GPH: 22 Climb FPM: 800 Cruise TAS: 175 Cruise GPH: 12.5 Descent TAS: 200 Descent GPH: 9.5 Descent FPM: 800

I haven't put it on scales yet. I might do that tomorrow if I get a chance and will let you know.

When I decide to put it up for sale, that is what I will do. It is not being marketed for sale at this time, I am not done playing with it yet

Finally made the first flight today. This plane couldn't run or fly any better! Still a few issues to iron out, but overall I am very happy with the flight.

Not even close. You can own this plane for a lot less than that. I have not added everything up yet to come up with an asking price, but it will be somewhere south of 175K. There's no way you could reproduce it for the price.

The intercooler took 8 weeks to get, just like they said it would. Installation was about 40 hours. My installation is not typical, it could be done in less time. We are being a bit meticulous on this build. You could add FIKI to a 231, if you so desire. https://www.caviceprotection.com/products-services/ice-protection-systems/mooney-fiki

That's great to hear! "Too much plane" was one of my main criteria in this project

It will be on the market formally once it's completed and tested. The intercooler kit took forever and a couple of more weeks to get. It finally arrived last week and is basically finished now. With the Holiday season here I don't anticipate completion to the point of my satisfaction being accomplished until after the new year. We installed a LOT of new stuff, there will certainly need to be some more work to do once the plane starts flying. It will take me a few weeks just to figure out how to turn it all on . Here are a few shots of the intercooler installation I just took today. Before someone else comments, I know the cowl chafe seal looks ugly, it will be replaced.

Just because a plane is capable of flying into the flight levels doesn't mean you have to fly it there. Most people do not go up there regularly.

If you are looking for a 231---------> M20K MSC restored

The speed claim is based on this: http://www.merlynproducts.com/mooneyanalysis.html Admittedly, it is only by a few knots and only at certain altitudes. The useful load is much more advantageous than any speed gained over a 252. After a long wait for the intercooler kit ours has finally arrived. We are real close to being able to go aviating, then we can see what real life numbers we come up with.

I don't know if Williams Airmotive will do on aircraft repairs, but if they will, rest assured it will be of the highest quality. They specialize in repairing flaps, ailerons, wings, etc. Generally you send them your part and they fix it. I just shipped a King Air flap to them last week. The wing on a Mooney is one piece so it will be kind of hard to remove for shipping, so it will need to be done on the plane. Replacing that skin is not a monumental task for a qualified person. Working the dent out from the inside is only a viable option if the original contour can be obtained and there are no creases or cracks in the skin. After the repair this would be need to be confirmed with an eddy current inspection. Filling it is not an option. I would only advocate replacing the skin. Oh yeah, we are a Mooney Service Center.

If you are referring to Slick mags, don't be so quick to blame the technician that installed them. Saying the timing "slipped" could have just been his way of saying the timing is not what it was when he set it a few hours before. Theres a well known (but completely ignored by Champion) issue with new Slick points. They all seem to be incapable of staying timed in the first few hours. We change points in Slicks every 500 hours, most of those mags come back off before the next oil change to have the points retimed. We are a 145 repair station with a full engine overhaul facility including magneto capability. We know what we are doing and have all the fancy test equipment to back it up. It is by no fault of ours, something in the way the point sets are being made has changed, and not in a good way. Voicing concern to a Champion rep netted us a bunch of free T-shirts and a bag of mag timing cams. If your technician simply retimed the mags to the engine and did not retime the internal timing of the mag it is very likely that your lag angle is incorrect and will cause the engine to be hard to start, amongst other things. If he/she is uncomfortable inside a mag PM me and I will arrange to have them sent to my facility and I will personally go over them free of charge.

I didn't see anything wrong with the old piece of sheet metal that would justify the effort. I am a much better technician than a photographer, the pictures don't do it justice. I will update this thread tomorrow with new photos.

If your issue is the sending unit you can try taking it out and cleaning it. Go to the hardware store and buy yourself some naval jelly, it a thick hydrochloric acid gel used to remove rust stains. Once you have the sending unit in you hand fill the end of it where the arm pivots full of the stuff and move it back and forth. Repeat this process for a few minutes. Rinse thoroughly with hot water. A second application is goods practice. Reinstall. You can see if this will help you and whether or not it worked with a multimeter. Connect one lead to the center terminal and the other to the body of the sender. Set the meter to read ohms. The reading should range from 20 to 270 or so when the arm is moved through its full travel. The numbers are not really the important part in this case, what your looking for a is a constant, smooth increase or decrease in the reading. Anytime the resistance jumps around non-linearly this will be shown on your gauge as a jumpy needle. You can repeat this test after the cleaning and see your results.