philiplane

Compliance with all manufacturer's instructions, including SB's, is required by many authorities outside the US. From SB643B: In addition to the requirements listed above, magnetos must be overhauled or replaced at the expiration of five years since the date of original manufacture or last overhaul, or four years since the date the magneto was placed in service, whichever occurs first, without regard to accumulated operating hours.

There are no really good maintenance shops at Fort Pierce. It's a bit of a ghetto, where the cheap guys go for quick sign offs. Johnny Stinson at F45 is reliable. https://amspalmbeach.com He's not a Mooney specialist but they do good work overall.

I've landed several different planes at Alton Bay. A Piper Apache, a Cessna Skyhawk, a Cirrus SR22, a Super Cub, and more. It's really not that hard to slow and stop. It's much harder to taxi around, especially with a castering nose wheel like a Cirrus or Grumman single has. You plan your turns based on rough patches in the ice where you can get some traction. Twins are easy since you have differential thrust. It's best to land when the runway has been freshly plowed, so it's rough. Landing later on a sunny day will get you some really slick conditions.

As a Service Center director, I was directly involved in repairing some brand new Mooneys in that time frame. The factory tried some new methods during assembly, and we had several 2005-2008 Mooneys with seeping tanks. Including brand new S Type Acclaims. Which did not go over well with the owners. Those planes went back to the factory for repairs and repainting.

If you retard the ignition timing by about five degrees on the higher compression engines, 94 octane works just fine. That is the official back up plan at Continental engines too. There is minimal power loss, so it's not a terrible trade-off.

https://www.flyingmag.com/blogs-flying-time-transition-unleaded-fuel/ The parallel valve O/IO-360's that can use 91/96 octane have been able to use Hjelmco's unleaded avgas, for more than thirty years now.

the wicking action of Corrosion X is what makes it better in preventing corrosion between skin lap joints. ACF50 is more waxy, and that's why it doesn't seep out through seams. I prefer the better wicking action of Corrosion X, because lap joint corrosion is hard to fix at any price. That said, don't use any anti-corrosion compound if you are planning paint work within the next three years.

It's not a low point. It's past the fuel tank, outboard. I'm pretty sure that Cirrus knows how to make their surfaces contamination-free before painting. This wrinkling exists on most of the hundreds of Cirrus I've seen.

magnetometer failures can happen after 8-10 years in service. I've replaced over a dozen of them on Diamond DA40 and Cirrus Sr22 aircraft. They just stop working with no warning. Servo motors don't fail, but the circuit board inside the housing stops communicating with the controller. Then you get a failure message and that axis stops working. It's more common on servos that are exposed to heat and humidity. That's the downside of "smart" servos. They can't operate without the feedback loop, so there is no limp home mode. They just go offline. Sometimes the failure is not in a component, it can be in the communication channel to the autopilot controller. The avionics shop should check all those connections first, before replacing parts.

https://aviationvibes.com/shop/jack-pad-adapter-for-cirrus-sr20-and-sr22/ I use these on Cirrus and other planes that have a hollow in the axle

Here is wrinkled paint on the fuel tank vent on a 2015 Cirrus, which has never seen G100UL. This is a well-cured urethane paint that has never been refinished since new. The wrinkles are caused by 100LL. And there is rarely any liquid here, only if you overfill the tank and the plane is on a slope.

The MSDS sheets for G100UL and for 100LL avgas list the components of each, and the percentage ranges of each component. It's not a secret. Nor is it a secret that toluene or xylene soften paint. You can buy them at any hardware store for the express purpose of thinning enamel paints. Fuel tanks aren't supposed to leak. But if they do, blaming the fuel for then stripping the paint is not the answer. Fixing the leak is the answer.

What's to "disclose"? Aviation fuels use various blends of distillates, and solvents like toluene and xylene. Both of these solvents soften paint.

100LL also leaves a dark brown residue from extended seepage.

Substandard only reveals itself when challenged. I find substandard materials when I try to spot repair damage. I don't expect peeling and bubbling, but that happens when you try to blend paint work into existing paint work that someone "cheaped out" on the primer, or used a cheapo hardener, instead of the correct (costly) products. I suspect that this is what the G100UL is revealing. Since it has more solvent action than 100LL, it is not surprising that some leaky planes are experiencing paint problems. Those problems would also occur if they needed sheetmetal repairs, but no one would know about it. The shop would simply find a way around it, and bill the customer accordingly.

Turbocharging systems require warm oil, at least 160 dF for proper operation. An engine heater can keep the entire engine at 90-120 degrees, to minimize the warm up time once running.

if #1 is hottest, that means that air is diving under the front of the cylinder, and that makes the entire side hot. Most air leaks are at the front of the engine, around the starter, alternator, and prop.

It's not possible to make the three bends required to get through the dipstick opening, the case halves, then around the crankshaft, to reach the camshaft. Even if it were, by the time you got to the cam, the lens would be smeared with oil.

Many manufacturers list 1000 hours as the service life of a muffler. In reality, it can be much less depending on how the pilot manages EGT. Operating at or near peak reduces the metal's corrosion resistance. "One of the key properties of any stainless steel alloy is its resistance to oxidation. High temperatures can compromise the the oxidation resistance of steel alloys, leading them to become rusted and weakening their structural integrity. As stated by AZO Materials, grade 304 stainless steel possesses “good oxidation resistance in intermittent service to 870 °C and in continuous service to 925 °C.” However, they warn that “continuous use of 304 in the 425-860 °C range is not recommended if subsequent aqueous corrosion resistance is important.” In other words, you can expose grade 304 alloy steel to temperatures of up to 1,598 °F for short periods of time without ill effect, and for extended periods of time in temperatures of up to 1,697 °F. However, this can compromise the corrosion resistance of the metal, making it more susceptible to corrosion damage from exposure to moisture. As noted in an AK Steel data sheet on 304 stainless steel, the alloy reaches its melting point at the 2,550 °F – 2,650 °F (1399 °C – 1454 °C) range. Naturally, the closer the steel is to its melting point, the more tensile strength it loses."

Let's set the paint issue straight. Catalyzed paints such as polyurethane or acrylic urethane, and even acrylic enamel, use hardeners to accelerate the cure process. Non-catalyzed enamels can achieve the same hardness if they are heated to 140-150 df for several hours. The catalysts (hardeners) replace the baking process and both achieve the same results. All will be equally resistant to solvents. However, there are many primers that are not catalyzed, or cured by baking. Those primers will always be susceptible to solvent attack, regardless of the topcoat. In short, most planes that are experiencing softening, blistering, or stripping of paint after exposure to G100UL may have substandard paint jobs consisting of improperly cured substrates or top coats.

10-357515 is the Bendix switch repair kit part number. But in most cases, cleaning is all that it needs. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/continentalnewignsys_06-02191.php

I use the 3M Perfect-It series polish to remove fuel stains and restore paint to like-new. I also use it on existing paint that will be spot-repaired and blended. You want the existing paint as clean as possible before blending in a repaired area. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/collision-repair-us/featured-products/random-orbital-polishing-system/?utm_term=sibg-aad-na-en_us-lead-g_a_o_rops-cpc-google-pfx-na-brand-jan24-na&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAACgp1ZoT1QO_SfSoRHwwEF5c4yYqb&gclid=CjwKCAiAnKi8BhB0EiwA58DA4bNR8OyTSgQLl5z2I1sm98ijyxyWFp8zvrnJRqER0Cc4Pamb15mFoRoCx0cQAvD_BwE Most shops don't use this because it's not cheap. A kit with all three polishes and the corresponding buffing wheels is about $300. But nothing works better.

The one-part epoxies commonly used in cheap shops are very sensitive to a variety of solvents. They're not much better than lacquer primers.

The PMA8000G is a great choice. I put one in my plane two years ago. It can generate call outs for gear warning, altitude warning, and stall warning, in addition to all the other features.

Beech, Piper, and Cessna use virtually identical paint systems. Cirrus does too. But in the aftermarket, anything goes and quality is anything but uniform. As I mentioned, it is more common than not, to find shops using a mix-match of materials in an effort to contain costs. Very few use the OEM procedures and materials. I've only seen one paint shop measure mil thickness of each step, and on the final finish coat on a light aircraft. That was a jet shop in Oklahoma, who did it in the same manner as their jet work. Many shops will use primers that will do exactly what you've seen in the photos when exposed to xylene or toluene. Again, the top coat is a victim of primer failure, not the other way around.