par

I like this idea the best I think. The plane is in annual at the moment and the belly pans are off so it makes sense to go this route. The previous carpet was glued in place and it was a poor method as the carpet bunched up and destroyed itself. It took me longer to clean up all the old glue and carpet than it will to install the snaps. I'll try to take some pictures while i'm at it. Thanks for the idea.

I am definitely going with Airtex carpet as I have already ordered it but like everyone mentioned, the glue method doesn't seem like its all that great. The previous carpet was in absolute shambles as well with the foam breaking off the back of the carpet. I figured much of this was due to the vast amounts of fuel that had been leaking into the cockpit before I purchased the plane but based on the comments so far that may not have been the entire issue. Jetdriven, I was thinking of going the button route but I assume I will need to keep the belly pans off to install the buttons into the floor. How long did it take you to do everything? Also, how did you punch holes in the carpet and ensure everything was in the proper spot so the carpet didn't bunch up later?

I am in the process of installing new carpet in my C. The floor has been completely cleaned and I have a few questions about a couple items before I press forward. First, should I put down some kind of sound deadening material like they do in cars before I install the carpet? If so, what should I use and what is the cheapest place to purchase it? The carpet I am using is from Airtex and they are telling me it comes with some foam backing. The main thing I'm worried about is making the carpet too thick and the seats not being able to move easily or having issues with the johnson bar. I would appreciate any other tips you guys might have as this is my first attempt at such a project. I would also like to replace the little piece of cloth around the base of the Johnson bar but I'm sure any OEM product is absurdly expensive. Is there a cheaper option?

Thanks for the answer. 46 is on order!

That's what I'm asking because I don't know which one works for my C. The last bit of my last post was sarcasm but I see the internets failed me.

I need to order one for my C. Is there is a difference between the 36 or the 46 in terms of drop in replacement? Should I just order the 46 since the number is larger and therefore better?

Yep...forgot to mention I do that as well. Its a good cheap solution for my cheap airplane.

Snow and ice the last two winters....cold enough for a californian.

Yes, preheating is absolutely key. However, it doesn't have to be something expensive or elaborate. If you have a hangar with electricity, simply stuffing two 100watt bulbs in the cowlings will keep the oil temp right around 50 degrees even if the outside temperature is freezing. I did this the entire winter last year and never had an issue starting.

Someone on here actually recommended it after my little fire incident last year. From then on, I figured why do everything I can to set myself up for success, especially when it doesn't take much time or cost me any money. That is me in the avatar. It was a good deal solo currency flight in the Quail MOA and pretty much a selfie fest. Miss those days!

Wear and tear is not the concern. I'm just trying to make it easier for the prop to turn. Call it a myth but I'm going to keep doing what has worked 100% of the time.

It doesn't. Breaking the stiction makes life easier on the starter and reduces the chance of cranking for a longer time period. All these things pevent me from having to pump the throttle as the engine cranks, thereby reducing the likelihood off fuel gathering in the airbox and reducing the potential of a fire. Only in cold temps am I religious about this.

The reason why it helps to give the prop some turns is to break the stiction. Additionally, I keep a couple of 100 watt light bulbs in the cowl flaps with a blanket over the cowling on 24/7 during the winter time. This keeps the oil temperature right around 50 degrees even on the coldest of days here in virginia. Turning the prop by hand will loosen up the engine somewhat if it has been sitting idle between flights and make life a little easier on the starter. This certainly is not a requirement but after my airbox fire experience last winter, I don't take any chances. I don't want to change something that works. Par

You will receive a flood of replies on the "correct" starting procedure for a C and in the end, you will need to find one that works for you. Here is what I do in my C. -Turn prop about 4 times by hand during preflight -Master and Pump on as I jump into the cockpit. -Check that there is pressure and then secure the pump -Mixture full rich and pump throttle 2-3 times during the summer, 4+ times in the winter and set throttle about a 1/4" in -Give the fuel about a minute to evaporate. -Crank away This usually starts my engine within a couple blade turns. On the rare occasion that it has taken longer, my battery just did not have a full charge or it was colder than normal and I simply failed to pump the throttle enough times. However, and be very careful with this, do not get to crazy with pumping the throttle. When all is working properly, you will flood the air box and the potential for a fire does exist. I had a very scary moment last year when I was new to my plane on a very cold day when it would not start. If you are pumping the throttle, you better be cranking at the same time. Keep cranking the engine at least for a few seconds after you stop pumping the throttle. My guess is there is something up with your carb/throttle/fuel system if you are not able to flood the air box. Hopefully others will have a better answer for you here but as far the starting procedure goes, that is what I use. Par

I see the specs are for either a 14v or a 28v light. As far as I know, my C is a 12v system. Can I use the 14v light on mine?

I don't know when my 63 C was instrument certified (proper terminology?) last but I am looking to have it done this year along with the annual. It is a basic IFR plane without GPS. What is involved in the certification process and how much can I expect to spend on it? I also think my DG needs to be rebuilt because I consistently have to re-cage it due to drift. I'm not sure what amount of drift is considered normal for the average puddle jumper.

It was...had both rebuilt and they are no longer leaking. The carpet is completely dry and I haven't been able to detect any visible fuel anywhere in the cabin. Here is my theory: The seep is making its way along the bottom of the wing to the belly where it appears to go inside one of the belly panels. Its a extremely faint smell but I can def smell it after I land and open the door/window. Can the carpet continue to smell after a leak permanently? Much of it was soaked with fuel before rebuilding both fuel senders.

I would like to eliminate the slight smell of fuel in the cockpit so I guess i'm the latter type.

I don't know if I have smoking rivets. After googling for some pictures, it appears you would need the rivets to be in the air stream to have the smoking effect. These rivets are located in a spot where the air stream will never touch them. I am really wishing I had taken some pictures last weekend.

I should have taken some picture but unfortunately I didn't. So, I'll do my best to describe the issue and grab some pictures this weekend. I have had seeping fuel from the right tank up in the forward part of the main wheel well since I bought the plane. Two different mechanics have not attempted to reseal this area but the fuel keeps seeping out. The first mechanic was straight up shitty so I wasn't too surprised by his work but I believe the mechanic I am currently working with knows what he's doing. After discussing the issue with him today, he thinks it could be loose rivets that run along the length of the tank bottom. To my untrained eye, I think he is correct because that's where I see the fuel seeping out. He wants to replace all the rivets in this area and says it should solve the problem. Have any of you ever come across this issue? I am being told that you can test for loose rivets by attempting to twist them with vice grips. If they spin easily, the answer is obvious. At this point, I just don't understand what else could be causing the issue.

I haven't flown IFR in the mooney yet so the only landings I have done are straight-in's and from the downwind but my modified landing checklist starts with the gear at the abeam. I then go though GUMPS and I give one final check on short final by looking at the handle. So, I guess that makes it 3 times for me.

What is even more amusing is how the daily show host types love to lecture on TV about all the evil 1%'ers when they themselves are the epitome of this hoax. Too bad we have a nation full of voting idiots who couldn't think critically even if slapped them in the face. On the bright side they are all producing kids who will surely be doctors or engineers.

My gauges def need some rehab so i'm sure part of it has to do with that. Look's like I'll have the shop check it out next month so I can be sure.

I've been noticing the oil pressure slightly outside of the upper end of the high limit at full power on T/O. I'm dead center in the green at 1700RPM during run up. In flight, it indicated in the higher end of the green arc. Once the engine is warmed up, I show right at the lower end of the acceptable range at 1000RPM. Is any of this unacceptable?

I built my own for less than 200. It def works but I think I will add a larger fan and a second hose at some point. http://mooneyspace.com/gallery/image/36555-/ http://mooneyspace.com/gallery/image/36554-20150419-153637/ http://mooneyspace.com/gallery/image/36553-20150419-153616/ http://mooneyspace.com/gallery/image/36552-20150419-153559/ http://mooneyspace.com/gallery/image/36551-20150419-102714/ http://mooneyspace.com/gallery/image/36550-20150419-102701/ http://mooneyspace.com/gallery/image/36549-20150419-102654/ http://mooneyspace.com/gallery/image/36548-20150419-102644/