Dcflyn

No doubt that we could fabricate a curtis drain valve, but at next annual we'd have to get it signed off. Mooney has a replacement kit. Not in stock, 90 day turnaround and $970. Not if I can help it! I need to find a 337 already done. I'm having trouble posting photos here--please scroll to the bottom of the page here for a close up of the part: http://n2690w.blogspot.com/2014/03/back-on-her-feet-again.html

Did that. They said good luck.

Ok, so our fuel strainer (the one controlled from the pilot floor) is frozen shut. It is evidently not rebuildable. Has anyone replaced the valve with a curtis drain valve and gotten a field approved 337? Help!

Carusoam, so where did you find the replacement part?

I pulled the screen and it didn't show any particles. That's good, but the part that looks like a tiny butter churn won't work properly. I suspect we'll get it serviced. Another $250 I suspect. :-/ Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

This gascolator? Mine won't drain and I suspect needs new o-rings. I've pulled it from the plane, but I don't know how to get it apart to expose the o-rings. Any tips? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

And the photos... Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I spent the day preparing my own cabin for its new interior. Going with a light fabric on the ceiling similar to what I pulled out. I may have to remove the nose wheel well plastics again as the carpet will be tucked under. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Also, I'm preparing to install our set of Airtex seats. Glad to hear good comments. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I have used SEM spray paints on two planes now. Extract the parts, clean thoroughly, first coat of SEM Sand Free, then color coat. Looks brand new. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Nice tips. Thank you, all. Will report back when I'm further along.

I'm beginning some upholstery work on the E. I've taken the interior cover off the luggage hatch, removed the old fabric and foam, and applied new foam and vinyl. I'm using a 3M spray adhesive for the large flat areas and DAP contact cement for the overlap areas around the back of the piece. (Sorry, no photos yet.) I'm concerned that I'm using the wrong glue and/or foam for effectiveness and durability...or am I just not applying enough spray adhesive and letting it cure long enough? It's a concave piece and has pulled away already. Any suggestions? Thanks, David http://n2690w.blogspot.com/

We replaced all of the discs. In my mind, they're like batteries--better not replace some...particularly after all the work it takes to get to them and re-assemble. I highly recommend the Full Monty. In this case that would be stripping (blasting) the trusses clean, etch priming and then painting. It's silly how great it all looks--like a freshly built race car. But it's a lot of work! If I were to charge for the the undercarriage rebuild...$7500? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

We just replaced ours on our 1966 E model. I don't know when they were last replaced (long time!!). When the plane was put on jacks, all three gear had "play"-- I could push the gear aft about 1/2" or so with my feet causing the shock disks to move up their column. New ones need to actually be pre-compressed to fit in their assembly. No more play. We are just finishing an entire undercarriage rebuild: http://n2690w.blogspot.com/

There seems to be lots of credibility in The Cafe Foundation's article (http://cafefoundation.org/v2/aboutcafe_orderfromchaos.php) re. 2.6mph increase from "clean" to waxed. I haven't flown my Mooney M20E yet. We're giving it a major makeover. But before it gets it's new paint, I'll find out the TAS between original worn gritty paint and fresh glassy paint. I'll set the over/under at 5mph. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I just watched that Debbie Gary video. The song credit was given to Barb Macleod, who just happens to have been my instructor and also holds the most spins recorded in a Cessna 152 Aerobat (and my trainer airplane!). cheers to Barb and Debbie. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thankfully I was able to remove the plastic between the seats and the nose wheel cover. In fact, I've removed damn near everything in the cabin except those ceiling vents. I'm not looking forward to putting it all back together. Yes, a respirator will be used while painting. David

Ah, yes, I remember now--that ducting needs to be stripped of tape. I've taken off enough during my refurb and unscrewed way too many screws. I choose to mask and spray in place. I'll let you know how covering everything else in the cockpit turns out. :-/ Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Bob, did you remove the circular rotating air vents overhead to paint? If so, how did they detach? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Of course it depends on your color scheme, but SEM Super White is slightly off-white and goes with everything. Makes the cockpit look light, friendly and smart. Fresh paint here in my previous C172N, I hope this gives you a better idea: https://www.dropbox.com/s/le5oi8skijtstsq/back-window-sm.jpg

Thanks for all replies. Very helpful. I suspect my partner and I will go with the inertial reels. $200 more than standard and perhaps a bit safer. Cheers! David http://n2690w.blogspot.com/

I'm refurbishing my '66 M20E. Do you have suggestions on where to buy a new set of restraints? Also, should I go with the standard shoulder straps or upgrade to retractable? Thanks, David Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Bruce has a really nice interior! I hope mine comes out that well. Thanks for sharing, HRN.

I'm currently refurbishing my '66 M20E. Regarding repairing the plastics, I previously re-did a set of C172N plastics by removing, cleaning with soap and water, repairing the cracks with fiberglass mesh and resin, priming with SEM Sand Free (clear coat that helps the final paint stick better), then SEM spray paint to match color. That all worked well and the parts turned out looking brand new. In my Mooney, I'm doing it all the same, EXCEPT I'm using plastic repair chips and MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) from the hardware store instead of resin. I got my chips in a simple kit from vantageplaneplastics.com, but you could also get a bag from http://www.buyplaneparts.com/abs-plastic-repair-chips-1-lb-10-02-80a/. Once the repairs are made, I can repaint or cover with the materials of my choice--vinyl and fabric. I don't have before/after photos yet, but you can see some of the stuff I'm working on at my blog: http://n2690w.blogspot.com/ Good luck, David Austin, Tx N2690W

I suspect they don't have the infrastructure yet for marketing and promotional material, but it sounds like they will over the next year. http://feeds.feedburner.com/MooneyNews