Jump to content

Dcflyn

Basic Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    51

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Dcflyn

  1. Dcflyn
    Any possibility the collapse was due to inadvertently hitting the gear-up switch? Mind you I drive a ‘66 E with a j-bar and I’m not very familiar with electric gear switches. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  2. Dcflyn
    I can find a replacement for my fuel pump switch, Klixon D7270-5-10, but not one with the white cover. Can the cover be added? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  3. Dcflyn
    Tracy, I received a copy of your book for Christmas. My sweetheart found it at Half Priced Books in Austin. I'm thoroughly enjoying learning the history of my plane from your father. I hope you complete your quest to reprint the book. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  4. Dcflyn
    We're upgrading from a JPI 700 to 830. Can you help me with a supplier and part number for a "T-fiting" for the manifold pressure sensor for a JPI 830? Tfitting diag for MAP.PDF
  5. Dcflyn
    Follow up: Replaced the cable and tach (Mitchell). I had them send the 36" cable, the same length as was pulled out, but it turned out to be so long that we had to bend and turn the cable to take up the slack. What happened is that the coupling pulled into the sheath and wouldn't enguage the tach. We measured and ordered a shorter one. It looked like it wasn't going to be long enough, but it fit perfectly. Now tach is super smooth (and I suspect accurate!). Thanks for your help, fellas.
  6. Dcflyn
    RobertGary1, what shop is that, please?
  7. Dcflyn
    The tach in our '66 M20E started moving wildly 30 minutes in to an hour long flight, then made really loud buzzing/whining sounds, then it went dead. I pulled the sheath from the engine and the cable had broken about two inches from the end. Then I pulled the tach, inserted the cable into the tach, and it wouldn't turn. Frozen! Do you have a suggestion on what we should use as a replacement (with a light)? Thanks.
  8. Dcflyn
    Consider ABS plastic. It cuts easily. You can bend it and drill holes through it, and you can glue foam-backed vinyl. (Don't ask me about flame/heat characteristics.) I used it on quite a few pieces of paneling during the refurbishment. Unfortunately, I don't have good pictures of it, but check out April 2014 from my blog: http://n2690w.blogspot.com.
  9. Dcflyn
    The PC doesn't work. We've checked the vacuum which is ok. Has anyone replaced the bellows? How difficult is the job? Do the interior side panels need to come off? Thanks...
  10. Dcflyn
    Thanks to all of you for the helpful comments. I'll be under the panel this weekend figuring it out. Cheers and happy flying.
  11. Dcflyn
    My gear warning horn comes on way too soon when I pull the throttle, 20-22" MP. Anyone know the fix?
  12. Dcflyn
    Make me an offer. These came off our 1966 M20E. They were working fine and are guaranteed to work or your money back (less shipping). http://n2690w.blogspot.com/2015/02/alternatorregulator-off-of-m20e-working.html
  13. Dcflyn
    PTG, you da man! Thank you very much. I'm also slogging through the MAPA Bible. Dcflyn@gmail.com Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  14. Dcflyn
    Yes, I have the original POH, but it doesn't have many of these V-numbers. Though it was a metal placard, maybe it was designed by the previous owner. Thanks for the suggestions. I definitely need to get involved with MAPA. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  15. Dcflyn
    We're putting the final touches on our interior reburbishment of our M20E. I'm replacing the airspeed placard, but it wasn't filled out before. Who can help me fill it out with the proper numbers? Keep in mind I have zero hours as PIC. Getting ready to start my 15 hours of dual. http://n2690w.blogspot.com/ Thanks, David Slowest descent power off: Most flight time per gallon of fuel: Steepest climb: Best rate of climb 5,000 to 10,000 FT.: Shallowest glide: Best rate of climb 0 to 5,000 FT.: Most miles per gallon of fuel: Ecomomy cruising: Normal cruising:
  16. Dcflyn
    The trim is actually aluminum covered with the plalstic extrusion. It's different than car trim in that one side sticks out further than the other to allow for fasteners to be screwed into it.
  17. Dcflyn
    Thanks for the comments. I discovered the name--"pinch welting". I know Plane Plastics does not have this particular part and I'm checking with Lasar. So far I can't find any good substitutes.
  18. Dcflyn
    This is a plastic trim part that goes around the door and helps hold and cover the ugly parts of some interior plastic as well as the welting around the door. Anyone know the proper name and where I can find it new? A black substitute just doesn't seem proper.
  19. Dcflyn
    Thanks for all the thoughtful replies. Our plan is to stay vintage and true to original, BUT we will eventually be going to a modern aluminum panel when the 430W, etc. go in. The original panel just needs a makeover that should last 1-3 years. I think we'll try for another wood grain overlay and if that doesn't work, we'll put a coat of Krylon and call it done. Happy flying! p.s. Just finished the front seats. Skins and cushions from http://www.airtexinteriors.com/index.php. Great product and service. Photo of seats: http://n2690w.blogspot.com/search?updated-min=2014-06-01T00:00:00-07:00&updated-max=2014-07-01T00:00:00-07:00&max-results=1
  20. Dcflyn
    The plastic shrink wrap will come off this old panel. Anyone have experience with "water transfer printing", which looks really cool, but it also looks pricey? Any suggestions? (If interested, you can also check out my blog: http://n2690w.blogspot.com/ )
  21. Dcflyn
    It seems that the big jets were all crabbing and kicking the rudder on touchdown rather than dipping a wing into the wind. Why? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  22. Dcflyn
    Glad to hear thar, Bob. I just finished my headliner with the old fashioned auto 'suspended style' material. Soft, felty, and glued to a layer of 3/8" closed cell foam. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  23. Dcflyn
    A couple of little L-shaped aluminum strips from fuselage skin to speaker mount. If it's all taken apart, you might be able to find the holes where the strips were...or maybe just drill a couple of fresh holes, though that may be a bit intimidating. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  24. Dcflyn
    N2690W, SN# 1007, 50% through refurb. http://n2690w.blogspot.com/ Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  25. Dcflyn
    FYI to all...used replacement ranges from $500-$1250. We got several quotes from across the country. Done. Let's see what the weekend holds in store... Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.