mooneyflyfast

A quart in three hours is well within limits (look up Continental’s acceptable limits). As long as you have acceptable compression and it runs good don’t mess with it. Anytime you remove all the cylinders you are opening up the risk of all kinds of catastrophic engine problems. . Check what Mike Busch has to say about this. I think he recommends to avoid top overhauls if possible. I might try some of the possible non disassembly measures like ring flush or even MMO in the oil and gas. (don't laugh I was a skeptic but it saved me having to remove a cylinder to fix a persistent valve sticking problem) I wouldn’t have tried it except that it was recommender by an old timer cylinder shop owner. lif you are using multi vis oil, try straight 50 weight.

Removing mine turned out to be too much of a job—they seemed to be set in some sort of sealant. Mineral spirits from a small syringe seemed to free them up pretty well.

My J SN 1057 built in 1980 is an 81 Model

I just freed mine up. Kroil and a little heat from a heat gun. No longer have to stuff tissue paper in them to keep from freezing. You have to hold the eyeball while turning the knurled part.

You might want to read Carol Ann Garratt’s book “upon Silver Wings”. She has flown her M20J around the world……twice. She might even be willing to give you some advice about your trip. I’ve met her and she is very pleasant to talk to.

A loose connection. I had this on my J

My 81 J model has the original paint. If I have it painted could I expect any noticeable increase in speed? Looking for first hand knowledge rather than theoretical discussion. Did you notice any speed improvement after your Mooney was painted?

I guess I should have said If you want to consistently make good and safe landings, hold it off until it’s ready to land. I didn’t mean to start a big theoretical discussion as to the maximum speed at which you could land a Mooney. I don’t think this serves an inexperienced pilot transitioning to a Mooney well. Flying it on to the runway at 90kts.? Or even 70? How do you think the infamous Mooney bounces that result in so many bent props and engine teardowns start? In my J 70 is your over the fence speed and then you try to keep it from landing until it settles on. Our insurance would be cheaper if everyone followed my advice.

This happened to my J once after I had to use the manual system after a total electrical failure. My mechanic had to drive a bolt out. After replacing the bolt, all was well. Not a big deal.

The statement was that you could land your “Mooney as fast as 90 kts on the runway” 90 kts on approach is a lot different from “on the runway” at 90 kts.” You can fly you approach at any speed as long as you have enough runway. And it is a lot easier to get the nose up with no flaps.

My previous comment was tongue in cheek. I’m waiting for information as to how to land my Mooney at 90 kts.

Someone will correct you here if you make dumb uneducated general statements like I did. But it’s all in fun and we don’t take offense.

I’m curious how you land a Mooney at 90 knots? can you elaborate? What is a formation landing? The factory specs for my Ercoupe call for adjusting the tail height to 75” so as to achieve a level pitch attitude on the ground. It also states that the airplane can be “landed at any speed” which I think is true. You can argue the exceptions and theoretical aspects of this. I was only trying to provide some general information that can be put to practical use. I’ll rephrase my statement: You will make better landings and avoid potentially damaging bounces if you hold it off until it is ready to land.

Here’s my J Model in a level attitude. You can see that the nose wheel is firmly on the ground while the mains are 4-5 inches in the air. If you contact the ground in this attitude you are guaranteed to go bouncing and you will be in this attitude unless the airplane is slow enough to get the nose up. You can’t shorten or hurry uo the landing by “planting” it on the ground like you might do in a Cessna or something.

1966 bucks. in 1966 I was renting Cessna 140s for $8.00 an hour. Dual was$11.00.

I have a Mooney Ranger owners manual and Embrey Riddle checklist and procedures description. If you want it let me know and you will need to mail me a postpaid envelope. It is 6 x 9 and 5 oz. p.m. for mailing address.

Jake repaired my KFC 200 roll servo. Works great. R&R o my end took longer because my guy had never done it before.

This has come up several times over the years. There is a small aluminum angle in front of the number 1 cylinder. You can see it looking through the front cowl. It serves no purpose other than reducing air flow over the number one cylinder. My mechanic made a new one about 1/2 inch shorter from scrap aluminum angle. It took him about 10 minutes. My no. 1 went from the hottest to coolest. Problem solved.

I believe the Plane Power will require some wiring changes. It has a built in voltage regulator whereas yours is buried behind the instrument panel.

Now we need a CB solution for the clear plastic wingtip lens $300+ last time Ichecked.

On my J the KFC 200 roll servo is in the right wing where the actuator rod for the aileron comes out of the wing. Inspection cover with pop rivets.

I’m thinking of ordering a cylinder from Boeing (Aviall ) Or Airpower. If my mechanic gets a discount I would like to have him get it and let him make a little profit. Otherwise i will just buy it direct.

How has your experience been with the Continental cylinders? How much time do you have on them? Do they have the nickle carbide bore treatment? Are the parts interchangeable with Lyc.? (valve guides, valves, pistons, rings, etc.). Sorry for all the questions.

Airpower shows to have Continental built Lyc. cylinder kits in stock https://www.airpowerinc.com/tist13-0ca

Are new ones still backordered for months? Are the Continental ones available? Who would be likely to have an exchange on the shelf?