dcastor

I know the Bravo and Ovation were significantly different. The Bravo is more like the M20J, but there are some minor differences…the armrest is larger to accommodate an O2 gauge mounted inside. Early M20Js have a different ceiling panel based on redesign of the air vents. …and then there is the round windows vs square.

All, I began the process of replacing the interior plastics of my M20M earlier this summer. I pulled 4 panels and brought them to Vantage Plane Plastics. They said they were willing to make molds of my panels to produce replacements, but on arrival to their factory, they said they already had molds for most of my parts. When they sent me the replacements, they were close, but didn't fit. I suspect the round window panels were for an M20J/K or something. Now they seem unwilling to make additional molds for my airplane. So, I intend to produce my own. I will start small pieces vantage also doesn't produce and scale up. Parts will be molded in a plastic that meets the requirements of FAR part 23. Here is a mold for the first piece, it's a cover for the luggage door inside release. Will post updates as I go, let me know if I can help you with similar pieces. Dave Castor

I just moved to NE Florida, KFIN area. As far as I know, no maintenance available at the field. Anyone have good experiences with mechanics in the area? Thank you!

Asked for a quote for a JPI EDM-900 into my Bravo and the quote came back north of 17,000. Ugh. 80 man-hrs to install. Really?

I have a TKS system in my Mooney Bravo with an ice light. The wire leading to the ice light has pulled out of the back of the connector. I'd like to get some replacement contacts, but having trouble identifying the type of connector. Anyone have a guess?

Is this a Mooney part original to plane or did a previous owner add it?

I'm seeing a lot of broken image icons. Images that users have included in their posts, but don't seem to work. As an example, I am looking for Mooney tug ideas and found a thread labelled "show your tug". Most of the images in that thread are not visible. Was there a change to a new server that broke these images or some sort of data cap we've hit and the hosting company is blocking images? Sorry if this is a repeat question, I did look to see if something like this was previously asked and found nothing. David Castor

Have you noticed low voltage warning on either alternator when throttle is at a lower setting?

Appreciate the post. Is there a limitation on how long full power should be used? I'm not one to push the engine hard, but flight instructor asked me because a Bonanza he flew with a turbo had like a 2 minute limitation. Thanks!

I am installing a newly upholstered set of seats and when removing the rear bench seat I found these massive steel springs under the lower seat cushion (see photo). I think I remember reading somewhere that the foam used these days is better and the springs can be removed...any other opinion? I'm leaning towards removing because when I took the bench seat out the springs were folded backwards which caused scratches on the aluminum. Dave C

My SVS control was at one time I attached to the side of the footwell near where your A/P is, then moved by a previous owner to just below the yoke. I don't thonk you need to modify the cable to make it work. I suppose the big concern is introducing slack on the cable that allows the cable to move and reducing effectiveness of the cable.

I talked with aircraft engravers a long time ago. I figure if he can't engrave on the plastic we use...then it should be possible to use the same mold with a different plastic formula. Alternatively, I've also been looking at options for hot stamping (like the originals). Dave

Shrobby, I built a 3D model and sent it to an injection molding company. They had some concerns with the moldability of the design, and suggested some modifications. I intend to make those changes. The cost of making a mold is about 5k, so I think we would need to have a commitment for at least a few hundred of these covers to make the cost worthwhile. I don't know if tge demand is high enough for that. Definitely not high enough if there are more than one of us producing the covers, so thats why I don't want to share my model. I did share a version formatted for 3d printing and I think it has been used to produce many of the 3d prints you see in this thread. Dave C

I had a similar problem, found a short between the mic and phone jacks that only occurred when headset was plugged in. Try a different headset to make sure its not a in your headset. Dave C

That's good news, but I would like to see them improve the accuracy of the parts...I read about a guy who ended up returning at least the headliner because it wasn't an accurate reproduction of the parts in his plane. I'm all for updating, but as an example they eliminated the recessed areas where stall/gear warning horns are supposed to go. Offering a couple of colors would be a nice improvement as well. Dave C

Be sure to check the nose gear truss, if the nose gear is forced to turn too tightly with a tug, the tubular structure can be damaged. LASAR has an STC'd truss with stops but someone actually broke the stops off mine and then damaged the truss. You can see the area Im talking about if you use the tow bar and move it to one side or another just until it stops. Cost to repair is about $750 plus labor and freight. Dave C

Marauder, I am using 3d prints from my model in my airplane without any modification. There are some settings that can affect the final outcome so it's possible that the "Oshkosh contact" is using slightly different settings and that may result in a slightly different fit. As to the labels, I have experimented some with printing with a void for lettering...the text comes out pretty clean, but adding contrasting color is the challenge. I'm still working on that solution. The Shapeways .7 version was made by someone else, I bought an earlier version (.5 maybe?) and I was also unhappy with the fit. I can't speak to how well .7 fits. Shapeways material uses a technique that results in a rough surface and the plastic powder tends to shed unless you seal it somehow (spray paint)? My method is filament deposition...the surface appears to have stripes but at least it doesn't shed. Dave

I can 3d print these covers without text for anyone that wants them at $5 each plus $6 shipping, color is currently limited to white or black. Send me a PM. I shared my 3d model with the "Oshkosh contact" so the shape and fit should be identical. Send me a PM. Dave C

Can you provide a picture of the schematic with the fuse you are referring to identified? 1 Amp is not enough power for a starter circuit, and it's not clear what light you are referring to.

There are a couple of amphenol connectors in that area. I don't know if that wire passes through there, but probably it does. If you're lucky it's a loose connection or corrosion at that connector.

It comes through the wing root, then forward to a bundle under the instrument panel then up what you would call the A pillar. Wiring diagram can give you the number Mooney printed on the insulation of the wire every so often so you might be able to find it in that bundle before removing any plastics. If I had to guess though its shorting behind the panel to the pilots left...lots of sheet metal there and screws there, and it has to be between the horn and switch. Be glad its not the switch, safeflight charged me 2 AMUs to overhaul. Dave C

Yes, Quality Aircraft overhauled mine in I think 2015.

I am Castor... Lettering doesn't matter to me. You might try to make sure you can fit STROBE/LITE or BOOST/PUMP. (/ = new line) Dave

Klixon sells these switches with blank operators for a lot... They won't sell the operators apart from the switch. Maule also used these switches in at least one of their airplanes.

As I said...it's just magic marker, it was a prototype. Sanding isn't an option with this design because the letters are raised. If I do a version with recessed letters I might try that. I'd also like to try some of your UV ink idea, but I haven't been able to find a suitable source. So far I've only find UV ink for printers.