DaveL

It'll be whatever I can get from the <400 SMOH engine and prop. The avionics are vintage '62.

Thanks. I've send the first three photos to Mike at Lasar. He's always been very helpful. I'm going to send him more when I get them, but he said that if the spar is 'exfoliating' it's pretty bad, and he tentatively agreed that $15,000 might be a ballpark repair estimate (before he saw the photos). He's also going to try and give me some ballpark values for my low time engine and prop, etc.

The shop doing the annual said it would likely be $15,000 to repair, and they wouldn't do it. I have no idea of the legal options if any exist. Perhaps it would be a good idea to explore that with an aviation specific attorney?

I never thought this would be me after reading similar stories on here in the past. I purchased a 1962 C just one and a half years ago from Phoenix. I had a local A&P do a pre-buy - I even flew commercial down to help out. I just got a call from the shop doing my annual with bad news. Apparently the stub spar is thoroughly corroded and the airframe is not airworthy. The said the stringers in the tailcone are also severely corroded. I still owe over 20k on the plane, and now it looks like I'll be parting it out in the hopes I can salvage something. My flying days are certainly over. The lesson here for those who are looking to buy is to do whatever it takes to get a *complete* pre-buy inspection from someone who knows/specializes in Mooneys. As for me I'll be paying for this for the next four years and not flying - a very expensive and life-altering lesson. Dave

I use a GDL39 in my '62 C which has a one-piece windshield, but not the 201 long one. I just wedge the 39 in sideways to the right of the tubular center brace. It sticks in tight between the dash and the bottom of the windscreen, and the antenna freely rotates so is easy to position. I've never had it bounce out during maneuvers or turbulence. Dave

Is the switch, when on, close to the shock mounted panel? My landing light switch does the same thing, and it appears to be sagging isolaters letting the dash knock the switch off.

I use Phillips X/C 20w/50 only because that's what the previous owner used. 100W is a straight 50w? I'm not sure I'd want to use that without a block heater this time of year!

I've got a question - I just changed the oil on my '62 C which has a spin-on filter on the back of the 0-360 engine. I added six quarts of oil, ran the engine to check for pressure and leaks before safety wiring and re-cowling. I buttoned it up, checked the dipstick and saw the oil level was well below - like a quart below - the '6' mark on the dipstick. I came back the next day and checked again with the same result. I'm guessing the dipstick is calibrated for the engine with a screen only and no spin-on filter? This plane goes through quite a bit of oil - perhaps one quart per two to four hours of flight, and it's worse the higher the oil level is. I've always added oil if it shows below the '6' mark, but now I'm wondering if I can safely run it a little lower and possibly reduce my oil consumption. Any thoughts?

I usually just pull the throttle wide open and let the plane sit for fifteen minutes at least. After that I start as usual.

That does sound pretty cool - I'll look into it. Right now I'm looking for the pattern for the overall panel with mount holes and such.I'm hoping to get something that I can send to a laser/water jet cutter for the overall panel, and then I'll cut the dial holes on my mill.

I want to start building replacement panel for my '62 C model in order to arrange the dials where I want them and to make better use of the limited space. Quite some time back I saw a thread where someone had a CAD drawing of the panel(s), but the thread was fairly old. I messaged the person and didn't hear back. Does anyone have or know of an accurate drawing around? It'd sure be nice to have something already cut before disassembling my existing panel. Thanks! Dave

I bought my C before I'd completed my PPL. I was able to get insurance, but the policy was written such that I had to fly with an instructor until receiving my PPL. I however took my training in C-152s and C-172s, and I'm glad I did. There is a lot to deal with the first half at least of PPL training, and it's easy to get flustered. I think if I'd started off in the Mooney I'd have had to spend more money and taken longer to get my PPL, and certainly put more stress on the plane with the less than perfect landings that studying and simulation won't prepare you for. I brought my airplane home by finding a very helpful CFI here (on this forum) that flew commercial with me to pick up the plane, and then I got to fly it back. It was a great experience! I also did fly the Mooney with the CFI a few times outside of my regular flight lessons to build time in it. Once I got my PPL it only took a few more flights in the C before I got the complex endorsement.

Yep, I saw that little gap there. I'll have to get some silicone with the thin nozzle and squirt it in there (and check the other windows).

Thanks, yeah I saw that the box section stopped at the top of the window. It's just to hold screws for the trim apparently. I too got the Dremel and disks out!

I bought a shoulder belt for the right seat of my '62 M20C from LASAR, and today when I removed the panel to install the belt I found stuff I wasn't expecting after seeing the left side setup. The frame tube is completely enclosed within an aluminum box section. The people I spoke with at LASAR didn't know anything about it. It looks like I'll either need to cut a section of the box out to access the frame tube within. The alternative would be daunting, and that would be trying to remove the interior and remove the entire box section piece by drilling out rivets and such. Has anyone run into this before that can give me some guidance? Thanks, Dave

I too have chrome cylinders and use at least a quart every three+ hours. #2 cylinder seems to be the main culprit with oil on the plugs, and definitely getting blowby as the bottom of the plane is definitely rust-proof.

My '62 M20C came with a Mooney/ARC autopilot with 'inop' taped to it. I don't know how to test it or even know if the DG I have is the right one for the autopilot? I'm looking for consensus on whether it is worth trying to repair or whether I'd be better off removing it and the gyros and servos for the payload returns I'd get. I'm doing mostly cross-country flying and intend to do lots of long trips in the future if that factors in. Thanks! Dave

Quote: BigTex I recently scanned in my near mint 1965 M20C Owners manual. It includes a supplement section that references differences with the 1962 - 1964 models documented in the 1965 M20C manual. PM me if you'd like a copy. Some of the text has faded but overall it turned out pretty well. It's also pretty big (4MB).

I've found that I don't have that problem if I use Google Chrome, but it happens every time with Internet Explorer.

Quote: lamont337 PM me your email address and I'll send it along. But only if you tell us about your sweet new ride! Congrats.

I'd like to resurrect this thread and ask for where I might find a POH or owner's manual for my recently purchased 1962 M20C. Thanks! Dave

Quote: Mitch Tell us more about the airplane please. Pre-buy accomplished? Weather permitting, it sure could be done in 1 day.

Hi All, I just purchased an old M20C from a guy in Phoenix. The plane is at Falcon Field (FFZ), and since I'm still finishing my Private I'm looking for a cost-effective way to get the plane from AZ to Paine Field in Everett, WA. I've been quoted $200 per day plus per diem and a one way ticket back, but the guy wants to take two days to do it (It looks like an eight hour flight). Any ideas? Thank you, Dave