rxo188

CHTs heat up to the 360s. I have thermocouples on each can. All temperatures are within manufacturer limits.

Max RPM and WOT. EGT 100+ish ROP. I've done lots of climbs to 12.5. Use your ram air in dry VMC.

Hi. I have a stock M20J and I want to turbonormalize it. There's almost absolutely nothing about this on the internet except for one company that is so out of date their email bounces back. http://m20turbos.hypermart.net/turbo_kits.htm I can't even find anything on youtube. Has anyone added a turbo to their IO-360 on the J model? I'm probably scratching at nothing here, because it seems the price for a turbonormalizer would eclipse the cost of an overhaul, but I'm curious if anyone's done it.

In my case it was the gauge. At first the needle lagged with advances in power from idle, and then the lag got longer, to the point that I could hear it at full power pitch and a few seconds later the needle caught up to max RPM. And then the needle wouldn't go over 2000 with full power. This happened over about 5 flights and 2 weeks. Had the gauge replaced and it works normally. At the time of replacement the gauge had about 3500 since new and about 600SMOH.

So, from what I remember studying aircraft systems, doesn't an oil cooler have a thermostat-like device that bypasses the cooler until a certain operating temperature is reached? My 1987J model oil temperature runs low too. Normal summer months it's barely showing up on the gauge which starts at 150f. This is verified by the digital readout on the JPI instrument that normally operates in the 130s when I fly in single digit Celsius OAT. On hot days it might crack 150. I've ran it like this for 900 hours and I have no compression, consumption or contamination issues. I thought about partially blocking off some of the cooler for the winter. Has anyone actually blocked the cooler and experimented?

One quart every 6 hours. Plus or minus an hour. I never put more than 7 quarts in, as they'd be blown out. Compression is good. I logged about 900 hours on this engine, which is about to reach 1000SMOH.

Hmm.. ..somehow I always have parts left over after I take something apart and put it back together...

I found it in the POH. Apparently the doors can be routinely removed if desired.

Sweet! I'll look up the POH. I seem to recall something about those doors and grass fields. Kortopates: there are just 2 pieces of metal that cover the gear. The one hinged to the wing outboard of the strut, and the one bolted to the wheel hub, where the brake is. There is no other door. I've seen the door you're talking about, hinged to the wing/fuselage, inboard of the strut. (I think the p51 is like that)

I have a 1987 M20J and I took the inner landing gear fairings (the ones attached to the strut) off for hairline crack repairs. I'd like to know if I can safely operate the gear without the inner doors. It appears the me that without the doors it's just an M20C. They don't have any structural role, and nothing really dangles into the airstream. This video of a gear swing on a 1977 M20J leads me to believe I can operate without the fairings. Any nuggets of knowledge would help. Thankyou.

I have a stock 1987 J model and I've observed my analog RPM gauge surge up to 3500. It started a year ago with the RPM going 1-200 RPM over the 2700 limit, so I would dial the prop lever back a shade to bring it back to the limit, but now the oscillations have grown to span the entire RPM gauge. When I dial down the RPM at high power settings it will stop oscillating above the red line when the lever is at about 2500, at which point it locks on and stays unmoved at 2500. If I increase above 2600 at high power settings it will immediately oscillate around 3000 +/- 300. The needle goes anywhere from 2700 to 3500 and oscillates 3-400 RPM in that range during high power settings with no audible change in prop pitch, no changes in egt/cht, no changes in fuel flow, and no feel of acceleration/deceleration, as one would expect from such quick changes. This only happens at high power when the prop lever is all the way forward, such as on T/O and climbout. In cruise at when I reduce power to about 23MP it settles in the green range at the RPM I want. If I take it to 2700RPM at 23MP, then add full power there is no change in prop noise, but the rpm will again fluctuate up and down from 2700 to 3500. In cruise flight about 10 min into a flight it works like it should. Anyone else see this? I haven't yet taken it in.

I have an 87 201 and my stall horn circuit breaker is pulled. I moved from the FL coast to the CA desert (humid to dry) and the switch started acting up. It degraded over 2 weeks: first it would go off intermittently on the ground when taxiing over asphalt joints, but work well in the air. Then it would blip in the air when bounced by turbulence. Gradually it chirped more and more on the ground as it got sensitive to smaller taxiway irregularities, then reacted to lower levels of turbulence, and decided to remain completely ON. I'm thinking the switch itself in stuck because of the dry atmosphere. I've seen this in some of my tools that have electric switches. Has anyone seen this before? How can I remove, inspect, clean the switch in the wing? Is it through the small access pannel about 2ft behind the switch? Any suggestions will be appreciated.

I'd like to piggyback on this subject. I would like to replace my yellowed plastic lens as well. I heard they're an arm and a leg. I was thinking of creating at mold and bending my own plastic.