M20C

Looks great...one suggestion; make the lip behind the spinner extend one inch inward (all the way around) to allow for sagging, leaning or "misplaced" spinners;-0

I punch two holes in the top of the filter (side of the filter on the upper portion), one forward the other aft, using an awl. Drain the oil over night, tape two small patches of duck tape over the two holes and hold a shop rag around the filter as I unscrew it. Minimal oil spillage.

Lemon Pledge or Slick mist.

Find an experimental builder on the airport, or an A&P. You will need a standard 1/2" (1"total width) aircraft hinge from aircraft spruce or scrap from the homebuilder, a rivet squeezer (which most A&P's, and all EAA home builders will have). I repaired mine in about 30mins; better than new.

Thanks Bonal, I haven't run her wide open yet, but at my normal power settings I seem to get about an extra six to 8 knots and much better cylinder cooling. Bill

Just finished the ARI cowl mod on my 68 M20C...Love it! Pics posted in gallery...

airplanepanels.com

I just completed the cowling mod on my M20C which required replacing the spinner assembly... I have the spinner, backplate and filler plates if anyone is interested. Excellent shape from a Mooney with 2000 hours TT

Thanks for the advise, The problem, in my case, was more likely a poor ground. This has been corrected and the LED light works flawlessly. As a benefit the annoying "hum," with the Landing light on, is gone and the LED light is brighter while using much less juice. The circuit breaker switch still works like new and the panel has been replaced with a newer style metal panel (no sag).

Taxi light works great and seems brighter than the Original Landing light.

For the Nav lights I went with: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/lednavlightsreplacement.php?clickkey=13721 For landing light, the Whelen Prometheus PAR 46. I went with the Taxi light, rather than landing light, as it provides a wider beam (both the landing and Taxi lights are brighter then the original). My older Par 46 bulb would pop the breaker switch after about 5-10 minutes use...the LED can be used continuously with no audible noise in the radios and no indication of draw on the ammeter.

I replaced mine with these... http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/led_maplight2.php?clickkey=211643

Yuri, What airport are you at?

OK...so what are you trying to do?....E model...C....? Don't mind helping but, the C and E are different animals a lll together...panel wise.... Do you want to stay "classic" or design your own "hybrid"?

Airplanepanels.com's instrument panels come powder coated and laser engraved with Lacquer filled writing ....$800 (both sides... and, yes, he's a Mooney guy too;-)

I am replacing my Battery with a smaller Odyssey battery...hows $50 sound?

airplanepanels.com..$800

You might also try www.airplanepanels.com..

Mike, That is a great price and, If you provide him with your CAD file, it will save him hours of work laying it out! Cheers, Bill

I also changed my C model panel to more of a standard T layout. You have several options, but i basicaly made new brackets to mount the pilot side shock mounts to, and mounted the copilot side flat. This was done several years ago, and since then I have done panels for another C model and two J models (I started a side business making custom airplane panels to help support my "airplane habit"). I have a website at airplanepanels.com, and would be happy to talk you through doing it yourself (no you don't have to buy the panels from me; this is as much a hobby for me as a business). You will love the cleaner look it will give your airplane..

Scott, Here is a Pic of one of the J model panels I made...

omega708, I have a '68 M20C I redid the lay out on and it really came out nice. I've also done two J models which I have not yet uploaded to my website. I charge $600 for an unfinished custom "C model" panel plus another $200 to have the panel powdercoated and laser engraved. You can find more information on my website: www.airplanepanels.com