Bartman

My wife was there when the piece hit the asphalt and she said buy a new propeller. I’m pretty sure it is best I not argue.

Flew back today from a weekend beach trip and when washing the plane the missing piece fell to the ground when I turned the prop. My wife was helping wash and she heard it hit the ground and said “that didn’t sound good”. No doubt it wasn’t snug enough last time I had the dynamic balance done. We both enjoyed an OH CRAP moment together followed by a beer. I’ve had this plane since 2007 and basically done nothing to the prop or the governor but the blades have been dressed several times so I doubt they would pass. I’m thinking new McCauley C212 for $12,836 per their website.

That’s not Mooney.

Replacing the rollers when they were 35 years old was one of the easiest and best things I ever did. That was several years ago and I did get them from LASAR. While you are at it, consider swapping the pilot and passenger seat locations to even the wear on the frames. While you are at it, clean out the holes in the rails with a hand held drill bit. Good for another 35 years.

I would put the plane safely on jacks and have the maintenance and parts manuals on the wing. Have someone actuate the gear while you watch and listen. Locate every fitting, some are not easily seen. I don’t have my manual with me but I recall @Hank once documented all of the fitting locations. Mine has one missing and I have to use the needle on that one. Also, you may find the fitting takes grease better in a semi retracted position, and may not take grease at all sitting on the ground. Not trying to tell you what to do, and hope this helps.

Best I remember I see 18.7gph on takeoff but that was summer temps and DA so may be a little higher in cooler air. 17gph would be low, but would not explain not making full RPM.

Looks like the crack goes through the hole for the fastener. If it were my spinner I would get that repaired if weld can fix it, or replaced. Mine has fiber washers under the fasteners.

There is a thread on here somewhere that details switch removal, opening it up, internal contact cleaning, and the results. If you determine it’s the switch, that thread may be helpful.

We removed my oil separator in 2020 when we installed the overhauled engine. I add at 5 and fill to 6. I'm happy with a clean belly.

Same. PS Engineering 7000 series.

If I remember correctly, mine had some sort of locking nuts on the end of those screws and I had to hold them from the inside. It was definitely not an enjoyable project, and I am thankful that the cuts and abrasions did not leave scars on my forearm.

Above 8K I fly at peak and you cannot hurt it at that altitude with the mixture. My EGTs are closer together while ROP but they peak individually at much wider spread and this will definitely affect the reading while 25LOP. Assuming both mags, wires and plugs are performing nominally, and the injectors are clean, the absolute EGT numbers do not matter. I aim for 10 LOP at lower altitudes. As previously stuggested, try to get the fuel flow from first to peak to last to peak as close to 0.0 as possible. 0.5gph will likely run well, but the closer your spread the smoother it can potentially run while LOP and also generate optimal HP. If one or two are very lean compared to the others, you will give up more HP while LOP and it does drop off quickly. We swapped out the injectors for the highest and lowest fuel flow and went from 0.5 to 0.2 consistently and often they peak simultaneously. I am also happy with 143kts @ 8.6gph and 2450. Can easily see 155 while ROP, but it’s not worth it to me.

In 18 years of ownership we have repaired the field wire terminal 3 times. The vibration causes the wires to break at the crimp. In 2020 when we installed the rebuilt engine I coiled up a small loop of extra field wire at the alternator and secured it such that there was minimal movement between the wire loop and the terminal. I installed a new terminal and decided I would just install a new terminal in years divisible by 5. It looked good this year but I replaced it anyway. Good for another 5 years. I think the field wire terminal is the weakest link on the M20J

At last annual I/we installed a new WAT Parmethus PAR 46 landing light along with LED wing tip lights and I am very happy with the result. However, I must say that in the 18 years that I have owned 1TF the GE landing light has only been replaced once, and that was about 15 years ago. That being said, the WAT was expensive, but the LED is so much brighter and I’m happy with my purchase.

The PMA7000 series is slide-in compatible with the KMA24. Might be an option.

I had Comm issues and a new set of spark plug wires fixed it. You may find a difference by switching off L or R magneto. That’s how I found mine.

I will retire in about 5 years and I would enjoy an air race. In several speed runs with the average of the cardinal directions I have seen as high as 158kts and as low as 153kts on my stock ‘77J. My bird will never see 165kts in level flight like yours and I would have no chance to win, but if it helped get to 5 entries, it would help get YOU the trophy for the class.

If not already done, consider removing the air plenum and remove the “hog hair” fibers. This acts as a filter and if you were flying in rain with the vent open it would allow it to drop out and drain, but who flies with the overhead vent open in the rain? I found the filtration benefit did not meet my expectations and it acted more of an impediment to flow. When we redid mine a few years ago I also rigged the new wire to open a bit more than previous. It now opens about an inch and I now enjoy much improved air flow, but it does adds drag and decreases airspeed a few knots when open. I have no regrets about those minor changes.

Reminds me of the tractor scene in Footloose.

You cleaned the shaft, lightly lubricated it, and stated it seems to be a solution. After lubricating hemi joints and ensuring nothing is causing binding of the push/pull tubes to the tail, I would not hesitate to fly.

The key that came with my plane would only work if you jiggled it up and down as you turned it. It was the wrong key and probably a cabinet key. A friend on the field had a Mooney and the key works like it was made for the lock. I made three copies, and keep one on the key ring, one in the headset bag, and one hidden in the aircraft.

I have an Aidyne 440 driving a King HSI and a nice audio panel and that’s about it. My Century IIb requires the vacuum AI so even if I added the G5 in that position I would have to keep the vacuum, but I have never found a justification to get a new autopilot. If my Century IIb augmented by the STEC Alt 30 for altitude hold ever dies, it will be the start of a whole new panel.

I have flown there several times and have used both MLB and TIX. If I was going to Cape Canaveral, I would fly into TIX.

Leg room side to side may be model dependent. I have the early J with the quadrant levers and it does box in the legs. Other models with push/pull engine controls on the panel without the quadrant should have more leg room.

By the way, we did the same thing on my A3B6D with a refurbished case due to a crack, and my oil temps are lower than before the repairs. The only thing we did was have the oil cooler flushed.