Bartman

Best I remember I see 18.7gph on takeoff but that was summer temps and DA so may be a little higher in cooler air. 17gph would be low, but would not explain not making full RPM.

Looks like the crack goes through the hole for the fastener. If it were my spinner I would get that repaired if weld can fix it, or replaced. Mine has fiber washers under the fasteners.

There is a thread on here somewhere that details switch removal, opening it up, internal contact cleaning, and the results. If you determine it’s the switch, that thread may be helpful.

We removed my oil separator in 2020 when we installed the overhauled engine. I add at 5 and fill to 6. I'm happy with a clean belly.

Same. PS Engineering 7000 series.

If I remember correctly, mine had some sort of locking nuts on the end of those screws and I had to hold them from the inside. It was definitely not an enjoyable project, and I am thankful that the cuts and abrasions did not leave scars on my forearm.

Above 8K I fly at peak and you cannot hurt it at that altitude with the mixture. My EGTs are closer together while ROP but they peak individually at much wider spread and this will definitely affect the reading while 25LOP. Assuming both mags, wires and plugs are performing nominally, and the injectors are clean, the absolute EGT numbers do not matter. I aim for 10 LOP at lower altitudes. As previously stuggested, try to get the fuel flow from first to peak to last to peak as close to 0.0 as possible. 0.5gph will likely run well, but the closer your spread the smoother it can potentially run while LOP and also generate optimal HP. If one or two are very lean compared to the others, you will give up more HP while LOP and it does drop off quickly. We swapped out the injectors for the highest and lowest fuel flow and went from 0.5 to 0.2 consistently and often they peak simultaneously. I am also happy with 143kts @ 8.6gph and 2450. Can easily see 155 while ROP, but it’s not worth it to me.

In 18 years of ownership we have repaired the field wire terminal 3 times. The vibration causes the wires to break at the crimp. In 2020 when we installed the rebuilt engine I coiled up a small loop of extra field wire at the alternator and secured it such that there was minimal movement between the wire loop and the terminal. I installed a new terminal and decided I would just install a new terminal in years divisible by 5. It looked good this year but I replaced it anyway. Good for another 5 years. I think the field wire terminal is the weakest link on the M20J

At last annual I/we installed a new WAT Parmethus PAR 46 landing light along with LED wing tip lights and I am very happy with the result. However, I must say that in the 18 years that I have owned 1TF the GE landing light has only been replaced once, and that was about 15 years ago. That being said, the WAT was expensive, but the LED is so much brighter and I’m happy with my purchase.

The PMA7000 series is slide-in compatible with the KMA24. Might be an option.

I had Comm issues and a new set of spark plug wires fixed it. You may find a difference by switching off L or R magneto. That’s how I found mine.

I will retire in about 5 years and I would enjoy an air race. In several speed runs with the average of the cardinal directions I have seen as high as 158kts and as low as 153kts on my stock ‘77J. My bird will never see 165kts in level flight like yours and I would have no chance to win, but if it helped get to 5 entries, it would help get YOU the trophy for the class.

If not already done, consider removing the air plenum and remove the “hog hair” fibers. This acts as a filter and if you were flying in rain with the vent open it would allow it to drop out and drain, but who flies with the overhead vent open in the rain? I found the filtration benefit did not meet my expectations and it acted more of an impediment to flow. When we redid mine a few years ago I also rigged the new wire to open a bit more than previous. It now opens about an inch and I now enjoy much improved air flow, but it does adds drag and decreases airspeed a few knots when open. I have no regrets about those minor changes.

Reminds me of the tractor scene in Footloose.

You cleaned the shaft, lightly lubricated it, and stated it seems to be a solution. After lubricating hemi joints and ensuring nothing is causing binding of the push/pull tubes to the tail, I would not hesitate to fly.

The key that came with my plane would only work if you jiggled it up and down as you turned it. It was the wrong key and probably a cabinet key. A friend on the field had a Mooney and the key works like it was made for the lock. I made three copies, and keep one on the key ring, one in the headset bag, and one hidden in the aircraft.

I have an Aidyne 440 driving a King HSI and a nice audio panel and that’s about it. My Century IIb requires the vacuum AI so even if I added the G5 in that position I would have to keep the vacuum, but I have never found a justification to get a new autopilot. If my Century IIb augmented by the STEC Alt 30 for altitude hold ever dies, it will be the start of a whole new panel.

I have flown there several times and have used both MLB and TIX. If I was going to Cape Canaveral, I would fly into TIX.

Leg room side to side may be model dependent. I have the early J with the quadrant levers and it does box in the legs. Other models with push/pull engine controls on the panel without the quadrant should have more leg room.

By the way, we did the same thing on my A3B6D with a refurbished case due to a crack, and my oil temps are lower than before the repairs. The only thing we did was have the oil cooler flushed.

Ensure the hoses are hooked up to the oil cooler properly. I'm not sure how accurate this information is or if I'm stating it correctly, but previous threads have suggested that reversing the oil cooler hoses can cause this issue. Not sure if this is even possible due to length and fitting configuration, but worth mentioning. While at it, I would flush the oil cooler and ensure the baffle seals are in good condition. You said nothing about CHTs so probably not baffle seals.

I had a mag die in flight once. All EGT increased by over 100 across the board, and there was no roughness. A stuck exhaust valve would allow combustion gases into the exhaust and increase EGT. That is not what you are describing and that's not what I see on the screenshot. This appears to be a partially clogged injector to me. I had that happen once right after I had my JPI installed and right over an airport. I circled down, taxi to the shop, and asked them to clean the single injector. After a test flight around the pattern, I completed the remainder of my 4-hour flight that afternoon. Under IA supervision, I just cleaned all four injectors at the annual inspection using Hoppes #9 and a basic ultrasonic cleaner. Using knowledge from previous threads on this website, I used a water bath in the ultrasonic cleaner and put the injector and the restrictor in separate baggies into the water. I ran it a couple of times and used fresh Hoppes #9 each time. I did them one injector at a time, and they were returned to the same cylinder. In 2020, all injectors were cleaned, and my EGTs all changed nearly simultaneously in transition to LOP. That drifted over time until the GAMI spread reached 0.6 in 2024, and you could feel a slight vibration while in LOP. Now I'm back to simultaneous EGT transition and zero vibration LOP.

break in - expect higher temps oil level low Bad sensor bad gauge Oil cooler fins, flush, etc vernatherm Outside air temp baffles and seals cowl flaps

I removed the plenum for repairs many years ago. Overnight, a rogue hangar elf tossed the hog hair material. I now have great overhead vent airflow, and sacrifice by not flying with the vent open while raining.

I would consider this, but you have to weigh the equation's benefit/cost/time components. You already have 6 new cylinders that will get you back in the air quicker than playing whack-a-mole, which is a significant benefit too. Even if you don't send these new ones off, I would definitely send the ones you remove for rebuilding. Store them properly and you have 6 ready for the overhaul a few years down the road.