Bartman

If mine does not start on the first try, I do the flooded start procedure and it starts every time. Mixture to the wall and hit the boost pump. Mixture cutoff and throttle to the wall and crank. She starts every time but you have to be quick with the throttle and mixture adjustments when it catches.

OMG I’ve watched it twice and I am still laughing !

In 20 years of Mooney ownership, I found that the connection at the alternator is weak. The constant vibration of the wiring harness causes the wire to break at the terminal where it connects to the alternator and mine broke a couple of times. I think it’s the field wire. A while back we replaced the wire because it was just a bit short and left a couple of inches of extra wire looped and tied so that I would have fresh wire when the time comes. I’m down for annual right now and will use this thread as the reminder to install a new terminal.

Don't forget the finger screen at the rear of the engine. You don't want to miss out on that fun, and you might find something. I did mine last month.

Look at the misalignment between the cowl and the spinner. I would think the engine mount and Lord shock mounts took a beating in the few seconds she was at full RPM. That is one lucky pilot.

Wow ! We always check the prop for nicks that can propagate, but I don't see anything on the closeup.

Thank you both. I already had the SI saved and think I have it from here. The SI does not state that the induction system needs to be removed but it would only take a few minutes. This will require grinding the existing rivet heads down on the butterfly valve housing and either punching or drilling the remainder of the rivet, which would end up in the induction system. I thought removing the intake would 100% ensure that no stray particles or rivets would ruin my whole weekend and then some. The alternate air gasket needs attention too, and I have the 1300 adhesive for that.

Good evening smart people, I am about to delete the ram air and have a couple of questions. My plane is 2 hours away and I left my parts manual and service manual with the plane. I downloaded the manuals but cannot find what I am looking for. My goal is to have all of the supplies and do as much as I can, and minimize AI time. 1. One of the four bolts attaching the intake to the fuel servo needs to be replaced. The parts manual I downloaded shows studs and nuts and I circled that in the screenshot, but mine has bolts and requires safety wire. What is the part number for the bolt, and can I get that on Spruce? 2. The parts manual does not show a gasket between the intake and the servo, and I marked that area with the arrow. Is there truly no gasket here ? The maintenance manual I downloaded does not mention this in the engine section and I cannot find what I am looking for on the Lycoming site. 3. I need to get the proper piece for part #5 to cover where the butterfly valve once attached. LASAR shows out of stock. Where can I get that, or what grade of aluminum sheet should I order ? 4. I bought the proper epoxy, antimony, carbon fiber, and other supplies to fix cracks and stiffen the upper cowl. I can use those supplies to delete the hole in the lower cowl or even rivet a temporary cover plate. No concern here.

I appreciate your caution and understand what you just said well enough to know this is not in my wheelhouse, and I do not intend to do this work, but I like to learn. That's why I leave this work to a very knowledgeable A+P friend who owns 2 Mooneys and maintains other Mooneys. He has the necessary tool, has done this many times, and we will perform this work together later this summer. For now, we will use the last bit of LASAR grease in my finger pump style mini grease gun for this annual. I can pull the plunger rod back 1 inch, and that should be enough for now. The chamber should be sufficiently full as long as grease comes out the top bolt hole. However, when we remove the actuator to properly service the gears, we should use this as an opportunity to maintain the gear thoroughly. If the gears look good in Part I, we will continue the instructions in Part II of M20-190B, and this will be my opportunity to start using my personal supply of Aeroshell 7 with 10% Moly. I can pump a grease gun and do many other things, like change a tire. For more technical issues, I research and mark the relevant sections of the maintenance and parts manuals, save documents like SB M20-190B, and research on Mooneyspace. I gather information and the necessary parts and supplies, help with the annual, and learn along the way. This way, I know the work is done properly, and I don't have to pay the local A+P to do the research. I am not trying to change the subject, and I am not looking for a reply that will cause thread drift, but yesterday, while replacing brake pads and packing wheel bearings, I found two other issues. One of the MLG only has 7 of 8 Zerk fittings, and the one on the forward end of the main rod (trunnion ?) is missing. I'll look it up in the parts manual, but it looks like one that is pressed in. Might be able to use a rubber-tipped grease nipple for now while I get the correct Zerk. I also discovered the MLG discs do not expand enough to fill the space when on jacks. I'm ordering discs today, but looking at prices, I wish I had made that purchase a few years ago. THIS is the value I bring by participating in maintaining my aircraft. Lord discs and other supplies will be here on Wednesday.

I bought a couple of 6oz bottles of Molybdenum Disulfide on Amazon, and I have Aeroshell #7. However, I have been using the mix from LASAR, and in this and the "Let's Talk Lubrication" thread, there is mention of incompatibility. I need to grease the Dukes Actuator gearbox for the annual, but I don't want to remove the actuator for complete cleaning until summertime when a friend with the landing gear tool will help set preload. I have read Aeroshell 7, 33, and Lubriplate 630AA with 10% Molybdenum Disulfide in these lubrication threads. What does LASAR use, and what do you guys use? I only have plenty of #7 and a dedicated small grease gun for this purpose.

This is by far the most important post on this thread.

If cruising ROP, I am always at least 125 ROP.

9.3 GPH sounds about right for that power setting at that altitude. I typically aim for 10-15 LOP at that altitude and the higher I go the closer to peak EGT. As posted above, I lose more than 5 kts at the power setting you described. I'm typically 145 kts LOP, but others may see more. I can do 155kts under optimal conditions while ROP, but the juice is not worth the squeeze.

Sorry, this is the first thing that came to my mind, and I could not resist.

This is precisely what I did. After removing the inner gear doors, that space was perfect to slide a couple of 2x6 for a base and add 2x4 as I jacked it up and provided a solid base while I changed the tire and tube. The 1" solid bar worked great, and based on the amount of flex seen, I would not trust anything hollow. As an owner/operator, I can perform everything required for this repair and then fly home without engaging an A+P. I can remove, install, and repair landing gears and tires, service wheel bearings, and remove non-structural fairings. The POH recommends the removal of the inner gear doors if going into a grass field. Removing the inner doors does not require touching the outer gear doors, so a gear swing is unnecessary. We will swing the gear when we put the inner doors back on later.

I love my J, and we have taken other couples on trips many times. It requires 1.5 - 2 hour fuel stops, but not a deal breaker. The F model becomes very attractive if you want the best entry cost, enough space, and useful load to fly another couple. Many of them are modified and essentially a J model.

That's what I needed to know. I can get a 1" diameter cold rolled rod at Tractor Supply, and I have a jack, blocks, and jack stand. I should be good to go. Thank you !

I can't say enough good about Edison. He did my tanks nearly 15 years ago, and I have had zero problems. He finished the work on time, and I have no regrets.

Columbus OH KTZR

After nearly 20 years of ownership I had my first flat over 5 hours from home and no service available this past Saturday. I have always used Goodyear Flight Special II with Michelin Leak Stop tubes and know to check and add air periodically, especially when the temperature drops. On landing, it was apparent that I had a flat, and I knew not to try to "make it" to the intersection and taxiway. The line guys brought a specially designed tire dolly, but with the gear doors, it requires jacking the plane to position it correctly. One of the line guys had a strong back, so the two of us used our backs to lift her from under the wing........ Yes, I tipped the line guys very well. I can change the tire this weekend after I drive 5.5 hours back to where she sits on the ramp, and I'll have to bring any tools back with me in the plane, so a wing jack may not be the best option. I know I can use a bar and floor jack, but my question is, what kind of bar? A previous thread suggested using the tow bar, but mine is not solid, which does not sound like a good idea. I want to be prepared when I get there and have everything needed. What size bar and what kind of material should I get, and where can I find it ? I don't want to buy something that will bend and not lift the plane.

I used a couple of pieces of foam for a while, then my wife bought the tail cover from Bruce a few years ago. I cannot say it is the easiest thing to put on, but it keeps the birds out. I use it when traveling and parked on the ramp, especially in the spring.

Replace those worn out baffle seals with the ones made by @Gee Bee Aeroproducts

@IdahoMooneyPilot If you have concerns about water in the system, add some 99% Isopropyl Alcohol. IPA absorbs water, but you don't want the stuff you get at CVS which is 70% IPA, you want the 99% stuff. I think I got some from Aircraft Spruce years ago. The POH for my J gives specifics on amount and/or concentration. Add to the tanks and go fly.

I had the same issue even after replacing the spark plugs. I diagnosed it the same way. A new ignition harness for my A3B6D solved the problem, and instead of some fabric-looking insulation, I now have red silicone that looks like it belongs on a hot rod.

My flap has been stepped on too. Wife and I know better, but I lower the flaps before allowing ingress or egress for passengers.