Bartman

When I rebuilt my roof vent cable I found the piano wire at McMaster Carr. If it’s a push-pull cable, will likely find the wire you need there. I didn’t heat the wire to make the pigtail, but I did use a drill bit a couple sizes smaller than the pin and wrapped it around tightly about 3-4 turns. By “unwinding” it slightly the pin slid in and when released it held in place with lots of grip. After nearly 10 years it still works perfectly.

In 1500 hours I have experienced the following, approx hours of ownership listed in parentheses: -VR failure 3 hours from home, turned into a great 4 day weekend adventure at OBX (100) -uneventful vacuum pump failure in VMC (150) -cracked spinner noted on landing at home (300) -D3000 mag failure in flight, diagnosed in flight by 100deg EGT rise on all cylinders (350) -lost alternator in flight, broken field discovered after landing at home (500) -coms and transponder failure, resolved with replacing wiring harness (800) -skytec starter failure 4 hours from home (1000) -broken spinner bulkhead (1500)

I didn’t do all of that, but we did replace the field wire and allowed for a loop of extra wire. In addition to regular inspection, every 5 years I install a new connector on the field wire. This is 2025 and even though it looked good, it got replaced this year on a fresh cut of wire.

Hartzell Top Prop installed and I did the test flight yesterday. Here are a few first thoughts. The old McCauley C212 had a yellow arc to avoid continuous operation from 1600-1900. Operation in that range produced a lot of vibration and from personal experience, it was there for a reason. It would definitely get your attention, and learned to avoid it altogether. I knew from reading and research that the Hartzell Top Prop eliminates that restriction altogether, and I looked forward to this. The vibration eliminated in the 1600-1900 RPM range by this new propeller was truly remarkable. While I nearly completely avoided that RPM range I the past, I found it basically eliminated it. From a smoothness and vibration perspective, it is like flying a new plane. I slowly reduce the throttle from full to idle cutoff, and there was no vibration. Very remarkable. The old McCauley C212 was smooth enough in climb and cruise, but anything less than 2400 produced some vibration and was worse as RPMs decreased. The Hartzell Top Prop was smooth well below 2400 and I look forward to experimenting with new settings. I only had time and ceiling for a a couple of trips around the pattern, and I look forward to evaluating in cruise flight with different RPM settings. I am glad I made the change, and I would do it again.

Aeromotors LLC

I have followed this thread and the original “right out of the gate” thread closely. Other than liking posts by @EricJ @Yetti and @donkaye, MCFI that focused on contamination and cleaning the filters and screens, I did not participate in either discussion. I also very much appreciated what @LANCECASPER and many many others brought to the discussion. Mooneyspace members tried to help. This is the most tragic outcome possible, but beyond agreeing with much that has been stated in these two threads and given the outcome I will not comment on what I would or would it have done. I do pose one question to those with more knowledge than me. In reading the history of this aircraft it does not appear to have flown very much since about 2022. I understand that the plane was filled with fuel prior to engine stoppage. If the tank is full and not much airspace, the engine should not have to draw much fuel from the tank before it created such a vacuum that no more fuel would flow. Is it possible that the fuel tank vent was clogged and played a role in fuel starvation ?

I have notice my altimeter being jumpy and also affects the STEC 30 Alt hold, but not 800ft. It disappears when I open the alternate static and is a reminder to drain the water out of the system.

Raise the nose and shake the nose gear.

@unicom I am traveling, have not read that section of the manual in several years, and cannot answer your question. I am sure one of our more knowledgeable members can answer. I can say that my 1977 tail looks like the second picture posted by @DC_Brasil Mine does not look like yours with the indicator in the takeoff position When we rebuilt my jack screw I had that section of the manual marked, opened, and ready for the IA to discuss. We also made 3 reference marks on the tail feathers with magic marker on a piece of tape. One full up, one full down, and one at my normal takeoff position. Everything lined up after repairs, the indicator was in the right position, and I had confidence that it was done right.

Last year I bought supplies for cowl cracks and rebuild. Did the work this year. This year bought new main gear pucks and engine driven fuel pump. Will get new fuel hoses before we begin. Will install pucks and pump next annual. My big project this year is the new Hartzell Top Prop install. Doing that under supervision of my IA who over the years knows and trusts my work. I installed it yesterday but still need safety wire, IA inspection, log book and STC paperwork. After a thorough inspection I have no problem becoming the test pilot for return to service. Every pilot cannot be as involved or have a relationship with an IA who will work with you like this, but I appreciate it and I really enjoy the work.

If I have work done that involved the elevator trim or another critical system I would absolutely research. The Mooney trim system is unique and I would absolutely provide crucial information including maintenance procedures to the shop performing the work. I use “teach back” all the time and I would make sure the shop can verbalize the importance, and would specifically ask about the install and rigging on pickup. I would also be aware of potential incorrect rigging of the trim system and know how to test it during preflight to ensure travel to the stops in both directions and confirm the indicator is working properly too. I’m not trying to make myself look better than anyone else. My brain just thinks risk mitigation and I’m simply putting the things I have learned from experience and on Mooneyspace into practice.

This is exactly why I own maintenance manual, illustrated parts catalog, research and interact on mooneyspace, and participate in my own maintenance. I’m a physician but have a mechanical background, and the thought processes for differential diagnosis and treatment of illness are the same as mechanical issues. I am blessed to have a great IA that I work with and he appreciates all off the research and information I bring to the table before anybody touches my airplane, including him. For example, about 15 years ago we removed the trim jack screw and sent to LASAR for service. All of the information was in the MM and had been discussed here on Mooneyspace, and we avoided this exact issue during installation and return to service. I am very thankful for this community ! As a couple of members stated above, this should be entered as a service difficulty report.

Look at the advertisement in the first post

So for $700 you get 3 jack frames but not the bottle jacks. I see some benefit in these, but I would spend my money on a good set of aircraft jacks first.

I agree it is not always practical to do an inspection away from home and in this instance I may do the same thing. I had a pre buy done at a well known Mooney shop in 2007 and they did find and fix a couple of things at the seller’s expense. No corrosion or big ticket items except for leaking tank which I knew I’d have to fix. However, over the next couple of years we found several other items that needed to be addressed. There will be things this shop does not find, but hopefully you can avoid the gotcha items as I did.

I’ve had that before and 75 LOP is too lean. I typically run 20 LOP at lower altitudes and the higher I fly, the less LOP. By the time I’m at 8-9K I’ll be at or near peak. If over about 10K I’ll lean to the first cylinder to peak or run slightly ROP. GAMI spread of 0.4 sounds good, but the deeper LOP that spread likely increases and as Skip stated, the cycle-to-cycle variations can amplify the misfire. The closer to 0.0 you can get, the deeper she will run LOP without a stumble or running rough. Cleaning the injectors and swapping the first to peak with the last can improve the GAMI spread. That worked for me. Try a magneto check in cruise around 8,000ft and 50LOP. You may discover which cylinder, and find something that points you toward a bad plug, wire, or magneto.

Oh I see now. I thought it was bent outwards by wobbling, but it is actually bent inwards.

Wow ! It is likely that the bulkhead deformed because the tape on the hub was not sung enough. If it’s not tight enough at the bulkhead-hub interface, the spinner was wobbling around at 2700 rpm and results in cracks in the spinner. You better take a really good look at the backing plate. I would not be surprised if it is cracked too.

The best way to make a small fortune in aviation is to start out with a large fortune. I’m not touching this with a 39 and 1/2 foot pole.

Assuming all baffling is good here are a couple of suggestions Remove and clean each injector. Do the baby food jar to confirm equal fuel flow, with the injector inserted installed. Check ignition timing. 25deg BTDC is allowed on my A3B6D but it runs hotter than 20deg.

A few years ago I saw that I had apparently I flown to Europe or something like that, but I don’t remember it.

Call LASAR and see if they will rebuild it and install new shock discs. Add a new steering horn and a couple of hemi joints and it will last another 50 years.

The antennas on top look salvageable.

Mine leaked there after a few hours on my overhauled engine. The pipe threads were not very tight. A bit of sealant fixed it. I think it was just a small drop of Permatex Aviation. Mine did not spray, but it is always possible to have two leaks.

I don’t blame you for getting the new alternator and you get a new bracket. That being said, when I installed my engine I ran a new field wire and coiled up a few inches of extra wire. The terminal at the alternator is prone to breaking due to vibration. I change the terminal every few years. Also like Yetti, my local alternator shop checked and cleaned my tractor alternator a few years ago.