Bartman

Assuming all baffling is good here are a couple of suggestions Remove and clean each injector. Do the baby food jar to confirm equal fuel flow, with the injector inserted installed. Check ignition timing. 25deg BTDC is allowed on my A3B6D but it runs hotter than 20deg.

A few years ago I saw that I had apparently I flown to Europe or something like that, but I don’t remember it.

Call LASAR and see if they will rebuild it and install new shock discs. Add a new steering horn and a couple of hemi joints and it will last another 50 years.

The antennas on top look salvageable.

Mine leaked there after a few hours on my overhauled engine. The pipe threads were not very tight. A bit of sealant fixed it. I think it was just a small drop of Permatex Aviation. Mine did not spray, but it is always possible to have two leaks.

I don’t blame you for getting the new alternator and you get a new bracket. That being said, when I installed my engine I ran a new field wire and coiled up a few inches of extra wire. The terminal at the alternator is prone to breaking due to vibration. I change the terminal every few years. Also like Yetti, my local alternator shop checked and cleaned my tractor alternator a few years ago.

Decided to put two more squares of cloth weave to clean it up and give it a more finished look. Final results with the vacuum bagging layers removed. Still had to remove the sealing tape. I had it sitting in the sun for the heat to accelerate the curing process but the sealing tape became very sticky and needs to cool before removal.

It may not be the prettiest result, but I’m pretty sure it will be much stronger than what I had. Thank you to Byron for chronicling your 2013 rebuild, and for the updated information and photos you added. After removing all of the vacuum bagging materials I’ll post a picture of the final result.

Progress report. I did much of the preparation at home and today I brought the cowl and all of my supplies back to the airport and began the finishing work. I prepared and cut all of the supplies before mixing the MGS 285L epoxy. The first thing was to add the sealing tape and cover with painters tape which provided a barrier and keep resin out of that area. I also chose to leave the existing honeycomb in place, and that turned out to be a good decision. Since part of the honeycomb was exposed, I covered these areas with 2 layers of fiberglass cloth to provide a barrier to the carbon fiber and to prevent galvanic corrosion. Since one area was lateral, I had to extend my strips of carbon fiber to cover that. I used the same mix on the epoxy as Byron. 50:50 of slow and fast hardener added to the epoxy and the 5% Antimony trioxide powder turned it a milky color. After covering the aluminum with fiberglass I laid 4 strips of unidirectional carbon fiber to cover each of the existing honeycomb ribs and the fiberglass base. I intended to use the blue foam to make a stiffening ridge, but it was not stable as I added the layers and it kept falling over so I abandoned that part. If I had done individual ribs it probably would have worked, but I needed to compete this in one bagging. Then I added 3 layers of the 19oz weaved carbon fiber cloth to cover the fiberglass and carbon fiber strips, and this layer was much heavier than the unidirectional strips. Since I already had the peel ply, the fiber, and the vacuum bag ready, all I had to do was add the layers on top of the epoxy and strips. Instead of using a fitting, I just made a wrinkle in the bagging film and used the sealing tape to seal the hose itself. I bought a cheap 3cfm vacuum pump a Harbor Freight and it worked well. The existing cracks cause excessive leaking so I added some painters tape on the outside to cover the cracks. That worked well and I achieved a good seal.

The Hartzell has a shorter lead time with the prop shop I'm dealing with I have no desire to shop around I want to be flying with a new prop as soon as practicable The McCauley prop and blades are nearly 50 years old I don't want to send for a rebuild only to find the hub and/or blades unserviceable I don't know how long the inner bulkhead was cracked, leading to vibration and more cracks Unknown vibration effects on the backing plate bulkhead and a possible undiscovered crack I didn't see a crack in the main bulkhead, but with an unknown duration, I don't want to find it later. Along with the propeller, I get a new polished spinner, bulkhead, and backing plate My wife said get a new prop Finally. I like the way the scimitar looks, and it may be quieter and smoother.

I know some would not replace the prop, but despite being rebuilt in 1999 the serial numbers show it is from 1977 when 1TF was hatched. I have decided to go with the Hartzell HC-C2YR-1BFP/F7497. With that comes a new backing plate, spinner and bulkhead. The prop govornor is working fine. Very responsive and does no leak or overspeed issues. I've had this aircraft 20 years and thinking it's time to overhaul that, but I'm willing to be talked out of that if someone has some good reasoning. The shop offered some on exachange on the old McCauley C212.

Final plan. I will remove the two sections of damaged honeycomb as @jetdriven suggested and go all the way to the edge of previous repair that I just removed. Create a ridge of blue foam for both of those sections as Byron suggested. If I extend the foam about 2 inches beyond where it always cracks on one, and then about 3 inches on the other, it will stagger the lateral ends of the blue foam ridge. That may help relieve stress, but may not really matter since it will have carbon fiber strips extending beyond those transitions. I have a roll of unidirectional carbon fiber tape 2 inches wide. I’ll lay that up in layers all the way from end to end covering what remains of the existing honeycomb ribs laterally, and the new blue foam rib in the center. Finally, I have carbon fiber weave fabric and will lay that in a trapezoidal shape over the center section. Wider forward, and narrowing as it transitions aft. I can cut it down the center and overlap so that it lays flat. Thanks to all for the help. Will document in pictures as the project progresses.

I bought 1TF in 2007, and this repair was done before I purchased it. As you can see, it was just brushed on thick with only a couple of layers of mesh, and it delaminated, so I suspect it is not the approved MGS epoxy. I started with a 40-grit disc on a drill, and that worked pretty well, but honestly, it came off easier with just using a knife and one of those painter's multi-tools. I also burned thru one small areal so I found it best not to use the sanding disc for the big stuff. The knife would get under the edges, but it was too thin to get leverage, and the painter's tool worked perfectly for this. I did hit the entire area with 40 grit sandpaper and then washed with soap and a scrub brush. I'll have to clean with MEK and do some additional preparation, but I have a good start. As you can see, the previous repair extended all the way to the honeycomb, and I wanted to remove all the old delaminating resin from the picture. One question for Byron @jetdriven. Did you completely remove the honeycomb, or did you cover it with carbon fiber? Jamie

Since I am grounded due to a broken spinner bulkhead I decided to bring the upper cowl home and start the rebuild process. I have this 2013 thread from @jetdriven saved and will use that as a guide, but the pictures did not migrate as we changed servers. I have some supplies gathered, including the MGS epoxy and hardeners, carbon fiber in both woven sheet and unidirectional as well. Gathering supplies to do bagging, and I'll do it right to the best of my ability, but I'm certain it will be better than what I have now. Here are some pictures before, and during the removal process.

We wanted to go to Centennial. It's a bigger airport, and yes, it's more expensive and stressful, but I enjoy the experience. Reminded me of flying into Midway. Making memories.

I didn't have the 8-second ride, but it was more like the nose gear was wobbling like a bad shopping cart wheel. About 10 years ago, we sent my nose gear to LASAR for rebuilding and the installation of new shock discs. We also installed the new steering horn, and basically everything is like new.

We flew into Centennial in June and I think we used Signature. Believe it or not, they had the cheapest fuel on the field, but honestly I've never wasted my time fretting about fuel prices at a destination airport. We saw a concert at the Red Rocks and it exceeded my expectation, and had a great experience in Golden, Morrison, Colorodo Springs, and Pikes Peak. I would use APA and Signature again.

My wife was there when the piece hit the asphalt and she said buy a new propeller. I’m pretty sure it is best I not argue.

Flew back today from a weekend beach trip and when washing the plane the missing piece fell to the ground when I turned the prop. My wife was helping wash and she heard it hit the ground and said “that didn’t sound good”. No doubt it wasn’t snug enough last time I had the dynamic balance done. We both enjoyed an OH CRAP moment together followed by a beer. I’ve had this plane since 2007 and basically done nothing to the prop or the governor but the blades have been dressed several times so I doubt they would pass. I’m thinking new McCauley C212 for $12,836 per their website.

That’s not Mooney.

Replacing the rollers when they were 35 years old was one of the easiest and best things I ever did. That was several years ago and I did get them from LASAR. While you are at it, consider swapping the pilot and passenger seat locations to even the wear on the frames. While you are at it, clean out the holes in the rails with a hand held drill bit. Good for another 35 years.

I would put the plane safely on jacks and have the maintenance and parts manuals on the wing. Have someone actuate the gear while you watch and listen. Locate every fitting, some are not easily seen. I don’t have my manual with me but I recall @Hank once documented all of the fitting locations. Mine has one missing and I have to use the needle on that one. Also, you may find the fitting takes grease better in a semi retracted position, and may not take grease at all sitting on the ground. Not trying to tell you what to do, and hope this helps.

Best I remember I see 18.7gph on takeoff but that was summer temps and DA so may be a little higher in cooler air. 17gph would be low, but would not explain not making full RPM.

Looks like the crack goes through the hole for the fastener. If it were my spinner I would get that repaired if weld can fix it, or replaced. Mine has fiber washers under the fasteners.

There is a thread on here somewhere that details switch removal, opening it up, internal contact cleaning, and the results. If you determine it’s the switch, that thread may be helpful.