N601RX

Sorry I put the pictures in a thread not in my gallery. The work table isn't necessary, but I already had it and it came in handy. http://www.mooneyspace.com/index.cfm?mainaction=posts&forumid=2&threadid=2085

We replaced all the side windows in our 67F. The side windows required very little trimming. We used the Mooney recommended glue. You can find it slightly out of date on e-bay very cheap. It is not hard work, but it is time consumming. Each hole has to be drilled and then countersunk. Use a drill bit and countersink made for plexiglass and you will not have to worry about cracks. As you work around drilling the holes, you need to put screws in about every 3rd hole to hold everything. You also need to dress the edge to help provent cracks. It will take a couple of hours to get the old glue off. We purchased new stainless hardware to reinstall them with. The glue is a little messy, so put one strip of masking tape around the window and one around the aluminum skin. Punch holes through the tape for the screws. When you tighten up the screws the extra glue will squeeze out around the edge of the window.Apply the glue and let it sit for about 24 hrs. At this point it is no longer sticky, but isn't hard either and will just pill right off. If you try to clean it up when it is still sticky it is very difficult. It is a 2 person job, one inside the plane and one outside. If you don't want the plane to be down very long you might try doing the front 2 and then the back 2 later. We used the .250 solar Grey and really like it. I have some pictures in my gallery.

Quote: outermarker I have a 65 M20E which needs new glass. So, the education begins...one question I have is where is the material from? US? Germany? Denmark? China? Taiwan? Could that be the reason, the quality of the materials? I would like to do the work myself....what pitfalls should I expect? Any special tools required? Sealants, which type seems to work best? Old sealant removal? thanks in advance, albert

I'm sure I still have the nut. I'm traveling today, but will be back home tomorrow to look.

I have the old switch that I removed from my plane. Aircraft spruce also sells a replacement that comes with a matching keyed door and baggage door lock.

You could do the nose gear one year and the mains later. I would replace them as sets.

Does anyone have any experience with the NEY Nozzels for extra lub on the camshaft?

Quote: flight2000 Trey, If your looking for a new gauge, they are made by Sigma-Tek now. I bought two new fuel gauges when mine crapped out and they were a direct replacement. I'm assuming they are the same style that are in my E, just horizontal versus 6-pack cluster. They are built to order, so it takes about a month to get them. I looked at getting mine overhauled, but it wasn't worth it considering the condition they were in (still originals). http://www.sigmatek.com/cluster_gauges.html Welcome to the forum. Brian

Quote: sleepingsquirrel One good thing about oil consumption like that is less frequent oil changes by draining and filling. Just keep adding and blowing it out, does that qualify as an oil change after 4 hours?

Quote: takair How high was your oil consumption?

I came these and thought I would share them. They are a collection of maintenance and performance articles from the Lycoming newsletters. Many of the subjects of these articles have been discussed here. http://pj260.com/Lycoming/Misc%20Pubs/KEY%20REPRINTS.pdf

Has anyone experienced broken oil rings in their IO360-A1A? I had been having high oil consumption and my mechanic helped me remove the cylinders yesterday. 2 of them had broken rings. The oil ring on one was broken into about 8 pieces and the compression ring on another had a piece about 1/2 long broken off. The cylinders had about 4200hrs on them with the last overhaul being about 800 hrs ago, so I have nothing to complain about. I am replacing all 4 of them with a set of low time cylinders that are still within factory new limits.

Welcome to the forum. What part of Lower Alabama are you located in? I'm in Troy, Al. If you can't find the info you need here check the MAPA site. A couple of the Mooney Service Centers monitor that site and usually answer mechanical questions.

Quote: DaV8or Jolie wrote a very good aritcle about this. The FAA investigator actually complemented her on the flight planning. If I remember correctly her dad was in the right seat and was a Mooney pilot for 30+ years. She made good choices that day, there just wasn't many good choices to choose from.

Check the MAPA classfieds. There are a couple of people there parting out Mooneys. Also look on Barnstormers, someone on there was parting out a J model.

The LSA certification could be extended to 4 place planes with new speed limits and weight limits. They could even require a PPL and medical for the 4 place planes. Another good option would be to provide a mechanism for expermintal aircraft and equipment to become certified after it had proven itself in the field by having a certain number of planes or accessories flying for a certain number of years with an accident or failure rate below a certain level. I personally would perfer a aircraft or accessory that had a proven field record over a new piece of equipment that had been through some BS certification "Process".

SWTA did not have any instock about 3 weeks ago. They have to order a min quanity and are trying to find another service center to split the order with.

The 300 series is temp only, the 655 will display temp, pressure altitude from the encoder, density altitude, and voltage. http://www.davtron.com/overview.php#600

Davtron makes some small digital dash mount models that are a little over $100. They also have some combo units that have clocks, timers, voltage, ect. www.aircraftspruce.com

Jacking up the front of the plane might help also. If it has hydraulic flaps they are fed from the same line that comes from the fluid resevor. There could air in that line getting back into the line that goes to the brakes.

Quote: tony Rage, does you tank still leak if it’s half full? Before you dive into a reseal, you should check the gasket where the sending unit penetrates the fuselage and snug up the screws. Some times that gasket dries out a bit.

We had been smelling fuel lately, especially after landing or when the tanks were full. It has bladders that are 12 years old. I had talked with O&N and they gave me some suggestions where to look for the leaks. I was happy to see that the badders were still soft and pliable with no rot. The leaks turned out to be around the cork gaskets that cover the inspection plates in the top of the bladders. The cork had squeezed out over time. There was also a leak around the fuel sender. There was also a lot of trash in the bottom of the tanks that needed cleaning out. Some of it could have easily stopped up the fuel pickup. Has anyone else found trash in the bottom of their tanks?

Here is a good link. http://www.watsonvillepilots.org/articles/DIYmaint.htm

Also look at using something other than the airplane as colateral. When we purchased ours airplane rates were around 7%. By using something other than the airplane we were able to get it for 4%. This way you will also have a "Clear" title to the aircraft. Home, Home equity, CD, Vehicle that is paid off, ect.

From O&N bladders web page. The prices do not include labor. Most of the shops they recommend charge around $85 hr. 54.8 Gallon Kit (Six Bladders) 40 $5,850.00 64 Gallon Kit (Eight Bladders) 50 $7,750.00 10-Gallon Add-On Kit (Two Bladders) 15 $2,450.00 I think a good reseal is around $8,000.