acronut

http://www.mooneypilots.com/mapalog/M20J%20Evaluation/M20J_evaluation_report.html

Hmmm that pic didn't attach for some reason I'll try again... Ok it's not working I can't seem to upload any photos. Even tried to upload it to my gallery and it uploads then says error. It's just a 500KB JPEG so I'm not sure what the deal is but it's not working. Ok got a different one to post to my profile I'll try here too...

Quote: DonMuncy Kendal, I can't seem to find it in my Spruce catalog at the moment, but they call mine a Mitchell 150 psi sender, part number 10-25055, for $37.50 plus freight. I would have to look at my hangar, but I think they buy it from Mitchell, but the actual unit has someone else's name on it; maybe VDO. If my memory is working right, it has a 1/8 inch pipe thread and only one electrical terminal on it.

Yea I'm guessing the K model must be different Don. I can't find anything close to that part number or anything that looks like it might be it on Spruces site. Thanks again for the help. Wish it wasn't Saturday Christmas Eve!!! Guess I'll have to cancel my trip to my sisters on the 26th. Merry Christmas Everyone Kendal

Quote: DonMuncy I think my memory is correct, that with the wire to the transducer removed, it is supposed to read "full pressure". The transducer is a variable ground which translates into the proper pressure reading. Thus, if you ground the wire which goes to the tranducer, it should read zero. Your indications are an "open" transducer. But I would still clean both posts and terminals to the gauge. If it still doesn't function, then replace the transducer.

I guess the short question is can anyone tell me what the gauge should do if the transducer wire is disconnected, it's properly grounded, and power is applied. Thanks Kendal

Ok my airplane comes out of annual and the oil pressure gauge pegs when I tun on the master switch. I'm guessing something is shorted out. It has one wire that goes to the transducer. When I pulled the wire off the transducer I get the same result. Next I plan on puling the wire off the back of the gauge and seeing what it does. If it does the same thing I'm guesing it's the gauge itself. Is this correct thinking or does it need a "good" transducer hooked up to read zero? Its a 68 M20F but it has a 201 style panel and gauges. It's the horizontal gauges across the top of the glare shield. Any help is much appreciated. Merry Christmas everyone! Kendal

Hey folks I have a 67F model with a lot of 201 mods. Someone on here was kind enough to post the E/F cparts catalog on their website. Does anyone have one available electronically for the J model as well? At the moment I need to locate a part for my cowl flap. If anyone can help I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks Kendal

Yea it definitely sounds like an ignition problem. I had the same thing happening in another airplane. I climbed higher and it got worse. Did a mag check at altitude (lower power setting than cruise) to figure out which side it was. Replaced the plugs, then the mag leads before I realized the Mags hadn't been overhauled in over 1200 hrs. It ended up being the Mag carbon arching at altitude. I believe Mags are recommended overhaul at 500 hrs. If you have an engine analizer you could narrow it down to which cylinder. My guess is that it will get much worse the higher you climb for troubleshooting problems. Kendal

Congrats on your new airplane! I second the vote for the 830. I have the 9cylinder version in my Pitts Model 12 and couldn't live without it. I never thought I'd use the download feature but it just proved invaluable when I had an engine problem and could download all the info and send it to the engine builder. Just plug in the USB and push one button and I had over 60hours of flying in seconds. Great product easy to read and use! Kendal www.acronut.com

Quote: HopePilot I have an annual coming up in a month. Would you recommend getting some of these: http://www.ddaircraft.com/sskits.cfm or is there a more flush replacement?

Quote: Sabremech Some tricks to get screws out. Clean any paint out of the screw head. Use a speedhandle to break them loose. Use some valve grinding compound on the tip of the bit for tough screws. If all else fails get a set of easy outs. I'd only use power tools once the screws are broken loose. You will end up replacing less screws if you hold off on the cordless drills and impacts. David

Quote: KSMooniac You should purchase a bunch of replacement screws to fit the belly panels and other inspection panels and just keep them handy when working on the plane...sooner or later you'll need them! Ditto for some tinnerman nuts.

So we recently purchased a 67 M20F that had gotten a fresh paint job. I've been wondering how I was going to remove all the belly pan screws that were mostly fulll of paint. I thought I would end up having to grind the heads off of many of them to remove them. I've worked on a lot of aircraft and built a lot of things and never had much luck with any of the gimic tools. Well today I found a tool and decided to give it a try. I bought a Craftsman impact driver and figured it would be a waste of $99.00. All I can say it that it payed for itself today and I'm pretty sure it's only begun to see it's full use! It works great and lets you apply a lot of pressure onto the screw while it hammers it out. I ended up only stripping out 3 of the screws and then I fugured out an easy way to remove those as well. I simply made a new slot in the screws with my dremmel tool and used a straigt screwdriver for a good solid grip. Worked way better than I could of imagined. Hope these tips might help someone else out sometime. Kendal