Sabremech

It was confirmed that I’m missing the Solidworks drawing for the down lock block. I’ll get that tomorrow and send it to Anders. Thank you, David

Just a quick note that the alloy called out in the drawing is not currently the alloy that’s needed until that’s determined by testing. Thanks, David

Hi Don, We can make the parts if needed or requested. I asked my shop to quote a quantity of 10 each of both up and down lock blocks to get an idea of cost to manufacture them. The final piece we need to determine for certain is the aluminum alloy. I’ll donate my old down lock block to the cause for alloy testing. I have used a testing lab near me in the past and could do so again but will need to find out the cost. I can work on that and report back. Thanks, David

The drawings are complete and I e-mailed them to Andersj as he did the go fund me. Please contact Andersj for your copy of the drawings. I do need to check the solidworks drawings to make sure one is the down lock and the other the up lock as they are both labeled up lock. I don’t have the software to open the files but will confirm them in the morning. Thank you, David

I should have the drawings by the end of next week. I’ll need to know where the drawings will go as they are being paid for by a small group. Thanks, David

Definitely not overthinking the alloy. This part must be the equivalent of the original. We can’t guess at the alloy to comply with the rules. I have had to use a lab near me to determine the alloy in the past and can do the same with this part. David

Definitely would be a simple repair process, but is it legal to do as an owner part? How would the repair be signed off? I personally would not want the responsibility of signing the repair as it is a very important piece of the landing gear system. It’s not a structural piece of the airframe but is for the landing gear. Without a repair from Mooney or a repair station license with this type of repair listed on the repair station, how could this repair legally be done? I did think of this the other day, but found no easy way to get it back in the airplane with a legal sign off.

Parts headed to the machine shop for drawings. David

One other item that we need to consider is what alloy will be equivalent or stronger than the original casting the part is made from. I’m willing to donate my old part to the cause to determine what alloy to use if needed unless someone already knows the alloy? David

Awesome group. I will get the parts to the shop tomorrow for the drawings. I’ll also contact via e-mail and we’ll take care of the funds after I provide the drawings. Shouldn’t take too long. Thank you, David

As far as part cost per unit, I believe LASAR has them listed at $390 each. I’d rather not set up a go fund me as I’m quite busy enough. If someone else wants to do that, I’d prefer that. I’ll do my part by removing the parts from my bird and get the drawings when it looks like the costs are covered. Thanks, David

Ok, the cost for me to have both the up lock and down lock blocks drawn in Solid Model is $400. I’m willing to pull both of mine out of my airplane to have them drawn if the cost of the drawings are covered. Thanks, David

Hi Cliff, as a fellow A/P/IA I’ll offer my view. I don’t do annuals on small GA aircraft and have only done a few in my career. My feelings are that the only thing I’m liable for would be something directly tied to negligence on my part. Once an annual is done and the airplane leaves your hangar, how are we to know whats been done to that aircraft by the owner or other mechanics and not put in the logbook? I feel my signature only states that aircraft is airworthy or in safe condition for flight right then and there. Once the owner takes it, the liability falls to them except for that negligence term that will fall to me until the next annual or condition inspection is done. Just my thoughts, but I can’t live my life worrying about a what if. David

There are plenty of airplanes that the manufacturer has gone out of business, stopped production or support for some models. There’s still plenty of used parts to support the airframe along with the fact that if there’s enough demand, someone will make the parts. David

So do you still want me to get mine drawn? If not, let me know as I don’t need to pull apart my bird then. Thanks, David

Ok, I’ll work to get a quote for the blocks. Will take a bit as I’m traveling the next few days, but will pull the blocks out and drop off for the quote later in the week. Thanks, David

Looks like LASAR expects to have the blocks available in a month. Does the group here want to wait and see if that happens or at least press forward with drawings if the parts don’t materialize?

Ok, I’m going to make a call to LASAR to see if my shop can help them get their parts back in production first. After that, if they don’t want to do that, I’ll remove my up and down lock blocks and get them drawn. I’m willing to get the drawings done if the group can cover the cost of the drawings? I’ll get a quote for the drawings in pdf and post it here before proceeding. Thank you, David

No, I think we have this handled.

One relatively inexpensive engine monitor that will give you what you need is the Insight Avionics G2.

Correct. They may need adjusting to ensure they are the same. The measurement is different for the opening closest to the crankcase halves than the opening towards the cylinder head. The important thing is to have them as close to the same on all four cylinders. Again, I’lol locate the measurement unless someone beats me to it.

As long as the purchaser complies with one part of the owner produced rules, such as supplying the aluminum.

There’s a specific measurement that should be set for the gaps at the bottom of the cylinders between the center cylinder baffle and the front and rear wrap around baffles. I don’t have them off the top of my head right now, but will work to locate them. Carbureted engines run warmer than injected engines. Just the nature of the beast. I recommend getting a four cylinder CHT/EGT gauge and don’t rely on the accuracy of the original single cylinder gauge. David

There’s a couple of options that I’ll put out there. I can take my parts to my shop and have a drawing made which will give your shop the dimensions they need to make them. Your shop would need to program them into the CNC. Think this option would cost the least. Or, I can have them drawn and then made by my shop. Thanks, David

Not much tighter than an original. The round inlets make it a challenge to fi the air filter low enough to not disrupt the airflow too much. I’m also trying to use as many certified parts as possible to hopefully ease my certification. Carb air box is the next challenge as the new cowling slopes up more from the bottom than the original. I still have your pictures and thank you again for sending them. David