cliffy

I've said this for years now! Like make up hoses, do cylinder work (valve seats and guides), even magneto repair. Most everyone wants to just order parts.

I can rely on 16 MPG 155 statute at 9.6 GPH Been doing that for years WOT 2500 RPM @9,000 ft

Back in the OLD days one could order a pump kit and rebuild them on the bench. Nothing near rocket science to do it but torque the screws correctly and check for wear. All the over haulers have the parts but no one can release them to the public now.

Also make sure the seat mechanism is fully functional and lubed correctly so it does its job in sliding down as far as it should. I've seen those jammed up due to wear, dirt and no lube and wouldn't fully engage with the track. Make sure the springs are not worn or too soft to pull the pins down. Check seat alignment left to right on each seat to make sure both of the pins are squarely over their holes before the handle is released The seat can be bent slightly and one pin doesn't enter its hole at the same time as the other.

I think (IMSMC) that the original 201 mph was supposed to be at sea level. I could be wrong but that's what I remember.

Braggart! :-)

Go there nd check the prices!

Some of us can't open it

Green is good, Red is bad The old days had everything at specific numbers (Boeing 727 training vs AB 320 training :-) We used to fly for years with only an oil pressure gage and a temp gage then we got EGTs and started to worry about 50 degrees difference in EGT THEN we got engine analyzers and now we worry about 10 degrees ? We flew Cherokees by leaning to rough and enriching to smooth running all day long. Same with all small a/c before analyzers came along. Perhaps we worry too much these days with 21st century electronics and 1945 engines.

Seems I have seen many rubber hangers made from old tire sidewall material. Never really gave it too much thought though

YUP :-) :-)

I moved mine to the outboard aft corner of the left wheel well No panels to remove or get inn the way of

How about a small piece of 4130 sheet steel and a small steel bushing and a little brazing flux and rod. Drill through the hole and be done with it. 2 hours tops. Seems like that would repair the problem eezy peezy. But maybe their aren't any real A&Ps anymore :-) :-) ;-)

I've seen this before but wondering as to why one of the Heim joints had a castle nut and cotter pin (rotating joint) and the other doesn't (only a shake proof nut). Just wondering Same kind of connection (Yes I can be OCD at times) :-) But still that is one of the leanest nose gears around. I found one down in Australia that was MUCH better though. Couldn't believe how well that airplane was maintained It looked almost new everywhere..

I have seen one other Mooney that has the nose wheel skid marks on the top of the wheel well. A lot of info was taken for granted in the early models and their maintenance manuals. Take for instance the description of how to set the elevator bungees from the early short bodies to the J manual explanation. Lots more description in the J manual.

2400 16.5 inches and just rich of leak EGT (25 deg) seems to be the longest endurance in the J manual up around 8000 to 10000 ft A little over 7 hrs

I read somewhere long ago that the intake was optimized for 2500 RPM

The rod ends are listed in Heim's catalog in the "Aircraft Quality" section Aircraft quality means they are magnafluxed for cracks before delivery.

Correct In fact lots easier with the gear doors removed along with the tire and wheel The manual only talks to using the eccentrics for how high in the wheel well the tire goes and not to looking at this interference fit on the link rod at the same time. It was probably tribal knowledge 40 years ago at the factory.

I agree but I will check anyway

EVERYONE learns here EVERYONE! In fact I hadn't thought to look and see if way back when someone before me (27 years ago) might have reversed the link. I'll be looking at it today before I relube everything under the floor and replace the belly panels to see if there is a flat spot on the other end. Now my link does NOT have any threads showing on the male side Interesting difference I've seen on 2 other Mooneys. The original maintenance manual (the only one we ae REQUIRED to go by) is very sparse. Back then A&Ps were on their own a lot - before attorneys.

Been there done that No issues found Removed bottom plate on firewall for better access and still no problem noted See above :-) Nothing on the autopilot install that would have affected it Roll is ailerons and pitch of course is elevators @MikeOH Not yet but I will Don't know if that ever happened 25 years ago when I had a 737 lock up in roll twice! Company had me do a test flight with maintenance on board- scared him when it happened again on the test fight. Typical "can not duplicate squawk" until the test flight. Turned out to be a bad roll control module mounted on the keel beam in the wheel well. 47U Your pictures are correct It has now been looked at by 6 A&Ps None can see any reason WHY it happened but can see WHAT is going on. NOTHING is broken, bent, loose, missing. Even used pry bars to see if we could find any loose play - NOTHING. We adjusted the eccentrics to lower the nose gear in the wheel well (slight movement down) so that it now clears the arm. Spent the day in another shop with them looking at it and doing the adjustments. The nose gear doors also needed to be adjusted after lowering the gear in the well of course. Gear works just fine now along with the rudder input. Only thing left is reassembly and test flight. 47U WHO has a nose wheel well that clean? :-)

As it says 'Manual Gear" Nothing out of the ordinary was noted up until the last flight. No hard landings either. Have 2700 hrs in this aircraft. Its being looked at again by another set of A&P eyes tomorrow to see if anything can be seen that hasn't been seen yet. That will be 5 A&Ps looking at it.

Have a short body in the hangar with a serious rudder problem that suddenly showed up on last flight. Takeoff was normal, climb was normal but on climb out it was noted there was no left rudder input available. Only right rudder responded with appropriate movement. The left rudder input was blocked solid, couldn't move the pedal. Landing gear extended for return and rudder worked normal both directions. In the hangar the jacks were pulled out and upon retracting the gear again the left rudder input was totally blocked but we found the culprit- the arm that comes down from the rudder cross shaft that connects with the linkage at the top of the nose wheel well was being locked by part of the nose gear tubing when in the retracted position. The question in mind is - how did this suddenly appear as it never has had a problem before ? It looks as if the gear retracts too far up in to the wheel well allowing the nose gear tube to go slightly above the bottom of the shaft coming down from above. In looking at 2 other short bodies- one shows that the Hiem joint ball end has been slightly ground off for clearance and the other shows a slight touching of the Hiem ball end on the nose gear tube so this may be more prevalent than thought. It appears as if the nose gear retraction can be lessened (by the use of the eccentric bolts) and allow enough clearance to alleviate this issue and still allow the tire to retract far enough to clear the bottom of the nose gear doors. This will be tried Monday. The question still remains on hw this suddenly showed up No markings on the tubing blocking the rudder except for just a little paint missing so this has not been going on for a long time. Complete visual inspection by 3 A&Ps has found no discrepancies. No broken or bent parts, loose or missing parts, nothing seems out of line from the gear bell crank under the floor (manual gear airplane) forward through the entire nose gear section. The arm coming down is not bent or broker (still welded to the rudder cross shaft), nothing so far has been found wrong. Has anyone ever seen this problem before- blocked left rudder? This is a new for us here.

Good points all