outermarker

So, what tire and tube resolved this issue? Was a tube with an angle used, and does that tube hold air throughout the year? I'm asking because it is time for me to change my tires and tubes. I, too, have straight stems and live in fear of ruining the inner tube by pulling the stem away to check and apply air. Goodyear FS III has been on it since I bought it, and I'll assume the inner tube is also a Goodyear. The FS III is the only tire using Kevlar and has a speed rating of 160mph. Currently, a Goodyear FS III and tube are over $500; therefore, spending around $1500 for three tires and tubes and then the labor costs is a bit steep for the shallow pockets I wear. I have a lightweight, short-bodied E. A perfect scenario for me would have these elements. Inner tube: 1. the tube holds air throughout the year without leaking. 2. the valve stem with the metal cap on doesn't rub, lie against, or interfere with anything. Tire: 1. easy to balance or balancing is not required 2. good tread depth 3. resistant to dry rot or cracking after a few years Is there a tire and tube that meets all of the above? Surely there have to be people out there who are overjoyed with their tires and tubes AND happy with the price paid for the tires and tubes. I would really like to hear from you. thanks!

Isn't the main difference between the Goodyear Flight Custom III (with Kevlar) a higher speed rating of 160mph vs the FC II with a 120mph speed rating? I sure hope I'm not touching down at either of those rated speeds. As far as Goodyear tubes, they don't have a 70-degree valve angle. I have had Goodyear products for a long time. I hate the straight valve angle. I feel like I'm going to cut into the valve stem every time I check or have to add air. Will the 90-degree angle stem work (with the valve cap on) without hitting the dust cover? 600 X 6 6 Ply/5.00 X 5 4 Ply Package | Aircraft Spruce

"I built an engine dehumidifier a few years ago using a Peltier cooler and aquarium pump." My limited understanding of a Peltier is one side is cold, and the other side is heat...depending on the amount of current you push through it. In order to maintain 90 degrees engine/oil temp I would think you would have to have a pretty large power supply and amps of current?

one thing to consider is the original ignition switch has a push to start feature. The reason is because of the plastic overlay. The nut tightens on the overlay. So, you don't have to overtighten the nut if you have to push. The other type you have to overcome the tension of the internal springs to engage the start mode. If the nut isn't tight enough the switch will rotate. Then you have to open the radio panel and reach in to hold the switch. Then get channel lock plyers to over tighten the nut (which will cut into the plastic overlay) hopefully enough without stripping the threads and not bugger up the nut surface. Then every time you go to start you will be aware that a bit too much pressure and the switch might rotate again before you get into the start mode. If you still have a plastic overlay, it is not worth changing the push to start feature for a twist to start feature. I know this because when I bought my Mooney it had a turn to start switch and for a long time, I thought it was correct...and for a long time I had from time-to-time issues with the switch rotating.

They do, three springs and caps for about half the price of a new switch. Bendix is really proud of their switch...the price reflects that pride!

I have been down this path a few years ago. I bought several used switches to take apart and swap innards and to see how it works. I also considered the rebuild kit from Bendix but even that was pricey! After I rebuilt switch worked but I still wasn't completely satisfied. So, I took the switch apart and under a microscope I saw where the key wears material away leaving you hunting for the sweet spot to where the starter will engage. The ACS switch your looking at uses a smaller diameter hole that will have to be considered. If you make a mounting plate for a proper fit you then have to attach the plate to the panel. There are a lot of wires behind the panel that drilling a few holes would make me nervous! So, when you consider the extra labor to mount the ACS switch that feels like it doesn't have the life cycles of the Bendix (or the price) have you really saved that much overall? I understand the ACS is certified for Cessna's so there is some quality with the switch. Since I have an Aircraft Spruce close to me, I had the advantage of actually going to the counter and comparing both switches. I left with taking a chance on rebuilding a Bendix over a new ACS for all the above reasons, mainly the smaller diameter mounting hole issues. Good Luck with your discission. Now I'm back considering paying that outrageous price for a new Bendix switch. It feels more robust than the ACS switch. Plus, it is an easier swap.

I doubt the gears have been heat-treated. It would seem like that would make the gears too hard and under load/stress the teeth would break easily.

Just as an add-on. When looking in the maintenance manual for grease with the required Molly percentage I couldn't find one, there is a grease with Molly infused but not at the percentage Mooney requires. So, I asked myself, that requirement was back in 1965 (I have a 65E with electric gear) and greases have changed over the decades so do I ignore the percentage difference? It's not that much more. Then I looked up Molly, what it does, and how it applies to Mooney. This is what I learned. The reason why Molly is used is to fill in the areas between the gear teeth. It's also used to reduce the wear of the gears. The grease with Molly is used in a high-pressure environment, like the sudden pressure placed on the gears when you select up or down. So, understanding the reason why Mooney wants a certain percentage of Molly/grease in that area, do you accept the off-the-shelf product or mix your own? If you mix your own, you have to now consider which particle size to use, the fine or coarse. Just a bit more to consider when talking about those two tiny little gears and what you are asking of them perhaps thousands of times! albert

Wasn't there a mention of placing a fuel filter by the Duke fuel pump?

I flew 5261B for 10 years. A good wax will keep the wings very slippery! There is another wood wing in a hangar at Hinkley Airport in Illinois, just west of ARR. It's ready to be picked up. The guy bought it for the engine.

It's too soon to know the longevity of the rollers I installed. The tracks are clean and the seats roll with ease. I like the idea of a metal bushing making contact with the bolt vs. just the molded part but it might not matter because how often are the seats being moved up and down the tracks? I would think the weight of the person in the seat impacts the roller's longevity most.

I reached out to Mooney and received this reply: Hello Albert, This is from my Electrical “These are all 3AG fuses. These are "fast acting" fuses, but are neither fast or slow blow. They're considered medium or normal blow. The differences between the 3 have to do with environmental and other factors that are not pertinent to our usage, therefore we do not specify a particular one. Any of them are acceptable.” Littelfuse 311 Series 10 A Cartridge Fuses – Mouser I checked Littelfuse and found this out while talking with Mooney. Neither Mooney nor I couldn’t determine what the Q meant. I did find out that 312/318 series is fast-acting. The 313/315 series is the Slo-Blo type. The 31101(0)Q might specify which series. Albert Littelfuse 311 Series 10 A Cartridge Fuses – Mouser

To further explain what happened. I didn't blow a fuse. I was going to check the fuse because I didn't know how old it was and wanted some spare fuses to have in the airplane. When I opened the fuse holder, I didn't realize it was under enough spring tension that the fuse launched itself never to be seen again. I then opened the other fuse holder and read the 250v @ 10A, noting it was also the slo-blo type. I went to the parts manual to look up the part number. That is where the Q on the part number came into question. This was simply a matter of checking something done before I owned the airplane and ensuring it was correct and having a few spare in the airplane. For all I knew, the fuse could have been 50+ years old. So, onto this great forum for answers for all to benefit from.

The fuse was a 250v@10A slo-blo question the 250v value.

I have to replace my shunt fuses. The part number is 31101Q, 10A. What does the Q stand for? What is the voltage? The retainer part number is 155020A. Does this number determine the length of fuse? Littlefuse isn’t any help. thanks! albert