outermarker

The issue with a push to start, is that you won't hear the SOS before starter engagement.

Earlier this year, I replaced the main gear tires with Goodyear Flight Custom III. This tire provided 10 years and 100's of hours of worry-free service. The inner tubes were from a vendor I couldn't find anymore, so I purchased Aero Classics Butyl Leakguard tubes because they were the only inner tubes with a 70 degree bent stem. The valve stem doesn't touch anything, including the dust cover. And yes, I cried when I wrote the check.

Something I noticed as I reinstalled the seats on the seat tracks with the new rollers. The distance from the roller surface, and seat track is very close. I measured the diameter of the original roller and the roller I bought, and they were the same. However, it won't take much wear before there is metal-to-metal contact when trying to slide the seat. I would suggest a harder material to use as a roller, such as the same hardness as the original roller.

Smirking here...the question was if anyone has used mouse milk to remove the fuel stain. "I saw on a previous post that someone had great success using mouse milk to remove a gas stains. Not sure if the details but has anyone used it with any success? I’ve read all the threads on out other suggestions to remove stains, but it seems like limited success with everything else." So, to answer the question, I have not used mouse milk to remove the fuel dye stain. However, I have also removed the stain by using fuel on a cloth. The dye transfers to the cloth easily, without much rubbing effort.

During a taxi, as you make a turn, the yoke should move in the opposite direction (it's trying to correct). If the yoke doesn't move, or if the yoke moves in the same direction, you have a leak. The rudder servos are the easiest to check. The aileron servos are a bear to get a wrench on... unless you do what Don Maxwell does, which is to drill a small hole in the aileron where the servo attaches, just large enough to get the socket through to secure the servo. I took out all the servos and inspected for pinholes or bad tape. This is easy to do. put a hose on the end of the servo. Put the servo in water and apply a slight positive pressure. This could be done by blowing into the tube. This will expand the rubber boot to expose all leaks. Fixing pinholes or small tears are covered in a Brittian guide. Realize that when the servo is put back into service, it is operating under vacuum, meaning that the rubber will be against the metal can, which can hide small leaks. That is why I tested with positive pressure under water. Using the proper tape is important too.

Should that be? I would think you would prime few seconds then turn off the fuel pump. An 1/8" "cracked" throttle yields about 1000 rpm when the engine is running. Anything more than an 1/8" open could cause a flooded condition and really make it difficult to start before the battery drains. What does the manual suggest for hot starts? Difficulty in starting could also be caused by the engine timing being off a touch.

What is the whining noise? I know it is not the SOS.

The one I owned had a metal tail section installed. It just takes a lot of time to inspect the wood, especially the center section, which means everything comes out of the cabin. That is why I said you could exchange the annual labor rate/hours for an all-metal airplane.

I believe the all-metal Mooney with 180hp was introduced around 1960.

Hinckley airport in Illinois has a Wood Wing Mooney in good condition that the owner passed a few years ago. It's inside. It was bought for the engine. Someone should look into this one.

If you are not an A&P/IA the labor costs are higher to inspect the wood wing. Additionally, the controls on the wing are made of fabric. With the extra costs spent on annual inspections, and only having a 150hp engine, you might be better served by buying an early 1960s model, which is all-metal and features a 180hp-200hp engine. I've owned both versions. I flew a 1958 M20 for 10 years, but that was when there were more people still working on wood and labor was ALOT cheaper.

It is well known that those who have "ram air" on the mid-60's E & F Mooney's barely saw a 1" increase in MP. It was more of a marketing feature. Is there a "kit" to eliminate the boot? I would rather have the comfort of knowing all air is going through a filter than trying to increase MP by 1".

Has anyone made a simple valve compression tool willing to post a drawing with dimensions? Something like the attached file. thanks

I assumed as much. I was hoping from all the past and present owners that someone, or many, have used these products and could provide testimony that the products won't harm the fuel tank sealant.

Does it bank with more than you in the airplane? When you taxi, does the yoke move opposite in a turn as if to correct for the turn?