outermarker

During a taxi, as you make a turn, the yoke should move in the opposite direction (it's trying to correct). If the yoke doesn't move, or if the yoke moves in the same direction, you have a leak. The rudder servos are the easiest to check. The aileron servos are a bear to get a wrench on... unless you do what Don Maxwell does, which is to drill a small hole in the aileron where the servo attaches, just large enough to get the socket through to secure the servo. I took out all the servos and inspected for pinholes or bad tape. This is easy to do. put a hose on the end of the servo. Put the servo in water and apply a slight positive pressure. This could be done by blowing into the tube. This will expand the rubber boot to expose all leaks. Fixing pinholes or small tears are covered in a Brittian guide. Realize that when the servo is put back into service, it is operating under vacuum, meaning that the rubber will be against the metal can, which can hide small leaks. That is why I tested with positive pressure under water. Using the proper tape is important too.

Should that be? I would think you would prime few seconds then turn off the fuel pump. An 1/8" "cracked" throttle yields about 1000 rpm when the engine is running. Anything more than an 1/8" open could cause a flooded condition and really make it difficult to start before the battery drains. What does the manual suggest for hot starts? Difficulty in starting could also be caused by the engine timing being off a touch.

What is the whining noise? I know it is not the SOS.

The one I owned had a metal tail section installed. It just takes a lot of time to inspect the wood, especially the center section, which means everything comes out of the cabin. That is why I said you could exchange the annual labor rate/hours for an all-metal airplane.

I believe the all-metal Mooney with 180hp was introduced around 1960.

Hinckley airport in Illinois has a Wood Wing Mooney in good condition that the owner passed a few years ago. It's inside. It was bought for the engine. Someone should look into this one.

If you are not an A&P/IA the labor costs are higher to inspect the wood wing. Additionally, the controls on the wing are made of fabric. With the extra costs spent on annual inspections, and only having a 150hp engine, you might be better served by buying an early 1960s model, which is all-metal and features a 180hp-200hp engine. I've owned both versions. I flew a 1958 M20 for 10 years, but that was when there were more people still working on wood and labor was ALOT cheaper.

It is well known that those who have "ram air" on the mid-60's E & F Mooney's barely saw a 1" increase in MP. It was more of a marketing feature. Is there a "kit" to eliminate the boot? I would rather have the comfort of knowing all air is going through a filter than trying to increase MP by 1".

Has anyone made a simple valve compression tool willing to post a drawing with dimensions? Something like the attached file. thanks

I assumed as much. I was hoping from all the past and present owners that someone, or many, have used these products and could provide testimony that the products won't harm the fuel tank sealant.

Does it bank with more than you in the airplane? When you taxi, does the yoke move opposite in a turn as if to correct for the turn?

I read that both Decelin (better than TCP) and Techron are approved for Continental and Lycoming engines. Does this also mean these two products won't harm the sealant used for Mooney fuel tanks? Will MMO harm the fuel tank sealant? thanks!

I don’t get an opportunity to give back and I’m so grateful to everyone who gives me help. This is an opportunity to perhaps help others. For those changing their tires and tubes I’ve enclosed a photo of the 70 degrees valve stem installed on the main tire. I used a Harbor Freight mini tire changer($56) to break the tire bead. Some hiccups I encountered. I wanted to use new bolts, washers and nuts on the rim halves. What I had was too long so additional washers were used. The bolt p/n in the Mooney parts manual was 1/8 too short. Also, the nut is a high temperature nut. Aircraft Spruce only has Nylock for that size. Nylock can be used on the nose wheel. What I learned was that I should have checked the Cleveland Parts Manual for the bolt length. So much for a DIY project!

Today I attempted to install a new LEAKGUARD tube with 70 degree stem on the main rim. The new tube has about a 1/4” of rubber at the stem base that has to seat through the stem hole on the rim. I could not get the rim mounted onto the tire and the valve completely through and seated into the stem hole. I gave up completely defeated. What’s the secret?