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Dimensions for the switch are available from Sensata website, drawing… the chance of any matching switch not fitting… is slim to none… they have all been the same basic shape for several decades… PP thoughts only… Best regards, -a- inviting @jkarch

Invite Rich and Doc Jon to the conversation… both have a turbo connected to their IO360… @M20F-1968 @tomgo2 interesting contact for this conversation… @N201MKTurbo Best regards, -a-

Sensata doesn’t sell direct to customers… because they suck… (plus they won’t sell just the printed switch caps) I use aircraft spruce… they may have them in stock, or can get from Sensata quite quickly… +1 for holding onto your existing switch caps… they snap on and off an oversized metal body… Landing lights of the original kind…(not LED) use a lot of electricity and generate a tiny spark each time you turn them on… this tiny spark knocks a micro piece of metal off the contact surface…. After years of operation, the CB switch loses its over center nature… the click gets softer and softer over time, as does its ability to resist tripping. PP thoughts only, not a mechanic… best regards, -a-

Quick reminder… IO550s love their cooling fuel at WOT… what is your max FF? 28, 29, 30gph, or more? PP thoughts only, not a mechanic… -a-

My favorite discussion…. Always take the extra time to type a lot of extra details… just when you think they aren’t important… somebody is going to ask for them anyways… typical flight for my O3 powered O1… Take off… full rich, or blue/white box if using EGT method at higher altitudes MSL… climb… leaning above 3k’ or so… using the blue box, or white box if you are G1000 equipped. the boxes keep the EGTs within 2-300°F ROP… modern Mooney’s with IO550s have calibrated EGT gauges providing real data… Cruise… Above 8k’, the MP is too low to damage the engine… I typically run about 2°F LOP… ensuring all of the fuel gets converted to noise… Gamis are good… but, the io550 may already have a Gami spread of about 0.1gph between all of the cylinders… So… measure your gami spread first… the curvy intake tubes you paid for actually do something good! If you have the 310hp STC… climb out at 2700 cruise climb at 2550 cruise at 2550 Some people descend using a lower rpm… others will adjust the descent rate to maximize ground speed… while being cognizant of the maneuvering speed and bumps… going 50°F LOP has its limitations… use it when you need to, not because it is a good idea all the time. getting used to these ideas probably takes a year… getting to know a chart of data, then speeding your way through leaning procedures properly… Start with the blue/white box… Climbing LOP… nice idea, but too challenging to get right… with 310hp, your climb rate is 2k+fpm…you won’t be climbing for all that long… Best regards, -a-

The big thing to recognize… 1) Know what your base line CO number generally is… 2) your meter may read 10ppm while taxiing on the ground or doing a run up… it’s nice to see your meter working… 3) if your meter starts reading a different number or different range… your meter is talking to you… you may be running rich on the ground, while normally running very lean…. 4) +1 for using the CO monitor as another instrument… if it hints of reading high in its current location… move it to a different location. move it in front of the heater outlet to see if it goes vertical, Mav…! 5) number of air molecules in the cabin declines with altitude, while the engine produces a never ending supply of CO (comparatively…). 6) maximize the O2 in the cabin… maximize the O2 reaching your nostrils… - turn your O2 system up safely… - check your air vent CO level! minimize the CO production… - lower engine power… - lean of peak… - consider flying at Carson’s speed… minimize CO production, but may extend time aloft… 7) remember, above 10k’, we are running pretty low on O2 under ordinary conditions… the sticky CO won’t go away fast enough… 8) Cognitive skills decline as O2 levels drop off… similar to the effects of alcohol… the brain has a few different capabilities that will all be effected differently…. Memory and thought processes are two important components… with a mega headache… we get a whole new level of distraction added to the pile… 9) cutting torch under the cowl… is a land now opportunity. Review the procedures often… Fly Safely! Partial PP summary only, not a CFI or safety guru… thanks to everyone who added a thought, or just read the posts… best regards, -a-

@exM20K Dan, I’ve got you covered! thanks to Hank @Hank… Best regards, -a-

Nice input everybody! I enjoy the related rates conversations… very chemical engineering-ish… 1) the rate of CO absorption vs CO exhaustion… CO gets an unusually strong bond… 2) strength of CO / hemoglobin bond vs O2 / hemoglobin bond… 3) And mostly… the increase of CO2 production vs CO production while lean of peak… excess O2 vs O2 limited… when it comes to cracked metal parts… a small leak can turn into a very big leak when the crack propagates without telling anyone… can be similar to a windshield chip, turned spider, turned crack, turning into a crack that runs across the entire windshield… know your V-band limitations… they are expensive and have real limitations on their number of times the can be re-used… mufflers have parts that direct hot exhaust gases properly… often these internal baffles get warped and start misguiding the hot gases… causing hot spot problems… has anyone seen @DanM20C lately? he always has good input on this topic… Especially on the speed of falling asleep in the climb… Best regards, -a-

Some modern Mooney overhead vents… are supplied with air from a NACA duct at the base of the tail fin… Don’t be surprised to find that air from the cowling somehow gets brought to the tail’s air intake… Some CO seeking MSer… found his CO leak entering the cabin from the avionics wires running to the tail… were not adequately sealed at the penetration. -a-

Things to consider… where the CO is getting out. in a TC’d Mooney, the hot side of the TC… can form a crack and leak… or the V clamps have been known to let go… it will be leaking very hot gasses and may start destroying things under the cowl… in a NA Mooney, the source of CO is most often a cracked muffler allowing CO into the heater muff system… look for a sign… moisture condensing inside on the windows… and a headache… anything that stops airflow into the cabin… or dilutes the concentration of the CO that is in front of the cabin… can be helpful… next step is to get fresh air into the cabin, airscoop in the pilots window may be helpful… our cabins are running under a slight vacuum… but opening a door in flight, will surely cause a windstorm in the cabin… either way… a sudden increase in CO is a land now situation… nearest airport will work in most cases… a broken TC exhaust system… the land now program can include the nearest open field… first determine if you have a fire under the cowl… @mike_elliott has some interesting experience in this area… I used my Mooney’s CO detector to find an exhaust leak in my firebird… (the firebird is gone…) remember… CO absorbed in your body takes longer to leave, than the length of your flight… battling the CO you have collected, it will be better to be at lower altitudes, and have O2 to help breathing… PP thoughts only… not a mass transport phenomena guru… Best regards, -a-

The cool thing about the new versions of iPads… is their use of the latest CPU chips… apple designs their own chips and has them manufactured by TSMC. the TSMC chips use the latest tiny transistor designs… a long way of saying… the chips are faster, more efficient, and run cooler… and take up less space. As for the pencil… the newest ones work really well and have the ability to read your scribble and turn it into text… of course, your software has to be written to use it all… most software gets written for iPads first… then everything else follows… I use an expensive iPhone, supporting the cheapest iPad purchased at Costco… a portable SkyRadar supplies WAAS GPS signal. i have not used the ipencil in anger yet… PP thoughts only, stuff I read about in tech magazines… Best regards, -a-

Nose ballast can be a good thing… Four blades with Beta mode, in traditional aluminum… the talented hub, can be a bit weighty… My mythical house on a 2k’ runway can use the improved stopping distance… Best regards, -a-

Machining those funky alloys takes a bit more time and effort… fortunately, they are known entities… not like when I was in college… back in the day, a man called a lathe operator, actually ran a machine called a lathe… machinists were awesome… Best regards, -a-

Has the recent war economy in Europe started building modern turbine engines in our scale? they have been building large drones for long distance flying. they want to carry a heavy payload, a long distance… and low flying is better than flying in the FLs for radar avoidance… See if Honeywell is showing anything… P&W partnership? HON powers the Reaper drone… 900hp may be a bit oversized still, for non-Rocket Engineering mod owners… (touchy subject, so don’t let me start a fire accidentally. ) Best regards, -a-

One of the odd costs to keep in mind while doing the math… the OH cost of the turbine is about 2X of an OH of a Mooney engine… but… hours to TBO is about 2X of the recip… roughly speaking… -a-

Unfortunately… unpressurized and turbine don’t go together very often… 1) Always on O2 2) altitude limited 3) fuel economy 4) too low, fuel burn is high, while airspeed is limited… 5) too high, time of useful consciousness is limiting… one missed problem with O2 delivery can lead to sleeping while flying… there are a few MSers flying the Piper P46T and it’s derivatives… And at least one Lancair IVPT for fun, look at the Lancair Evolution… pressurized, turbine, and Experimental… one interesting thing turbines may have… putting the prop into beta… to reduce stopping distance… I like my Mooney! Going Acclaim would make it slightly better… I have been following the turbine discussion forever… Best regards, -a-

Hey Don! -a-

Nice to see you here as well Mitch! Best regards, -a-

Way to go @katzhome! hey everybody! -a-

Interesting note about alternator output… at low rpm, while taxiing… their output is pretty low. You may get a low voltage light on the panel… they will be providing maximum output possible… but at 700rpm of the engine… the alternator will be providing a pretty low output… increasing rpm, the low voltage light extinguishes… but taxiing speed starts to increase… dragging the brakes, nobody likes… O1 experience only, no BU alternator… -a-

Hey Ed… expect that each alternator has its own VR voltage regulator… some installations have one device that contains two VRs in one box… adjusting the VR’s output is usually a simple procedure to follow… the 24V system charges near 28V… there is an upper limit that should be easy to look up for your collective systems… The fancy B&C alternator should have a booklet of info to go with it… possibly found in the POH. If not both the alternator and VR can be looked up on the BandC.com website. Battery, electronics, high and low voltage warnings… Look up the best charging voltage for your favorite batteries you have on board… if you are fortunate, you have a pair of Concordes back there… For maintenance, the Concordes charge between 28.0 and 28.8V… either way, charging at too high of a voltage is bad for battery health… PP thoughts only, not a mechanic… - a -

hey all…! I don’t know what did it… but, my old M20C was fully magnetized… it ended my first attempt at IFR training… right at making turns using the mag compass… if you remember ANDS… accelerate North, Decelerate South… the magnetized cage added another sticking point that slowed the magnet, until it broke free, and accelerated to the next position… Pretty much made the mag compass useless for making turns in instrument conditions… people used to make demagnetizers out of used CRT screen parts… decent instrument shops probably have one… lately, people don’t remember CRT screens much any more… as far as vacuum cleaners and mag fields goes… leave the electric motors outside and bring the hose inside… most modern devices are built with some intelligence involved…all kinds of shielding to keep them from annoying your cell phone. mom’s 50 year old vac cleaner throws off enough sparking electric noise and ozone… it’s best left outside the hangar… The newer Mooneys got a larger diameter center tube, made of SS… and the mag compass is also glare shield mounted a bit far away from the center post… I’m only a retired chemical engineer… my work processes back in the day used 500hp DC motors and had computer controls all around them… both simple PC and hardened industrial controllers…

So far, so good… let’s see if I remember how to summarize a challenge… We have an M20K with an TSIO360… lots of new parts… lots of fuel pressure… with an interesting, but non descriptive statement… The engine won’t commit to start? it does turn… hmmmm… sounds to me like the starter isn’t able to turn the engine over with any speed. if we consider the starter, the battery, the starter relay… and all of their connections… the starter should spin the prop without any issues… if the starter can spin the prop without slowing down under cylinder compression… we get to the next level… cold start, warm start, hot start… getting the start procedure right for the M20K depends on which fuel priming location you have… if your priming system is working… your Fuel Flow indicator shows fuel going to the engine… it is easy to flood the engine… and then follow the flooded engine start!!! Hi all! -a-

Great details DK! thanks for sharing them. -a-

Surely the original design of the oil/air separator doesn’t allow for spreading any oil as shown in the pic… Variations in installations have shown that overflows occur under certain circumstances… the purpose of the oil sep… is to keep oil from escaping the case vent. the I and O360 have a tendency to let oil out the vent when filled above 6qts, climbing, at high power… lots of pattern work can result with lots of oil on the belly… the vent has a tube where the oil drops are set free under the belly… When excess oil has a tendency to show up dripping off the tail tie down… this is a sign of extra positive case pressure, blowing oil out the vent line… if your oil is foamy, black, and smells like exhaust… and only has 10 hrs on it… you might have a ring problem… see if running a quart less oil stops the flood… too low oil level will be shown as too high of an oilT… (land and add quart back in…) keep in mind… without the sep, the oil drip problem was a small pain. Nobody would add a sep to get a bigger pain… Ancient PP memories only, not a mechanic… -a-