Cruiser

Quote: Auburn02 snip...... The question is on which items do you hold fast to your list and on which do you give? I guess my list probably isn't even all that long compared to some others, but it's still proving to be quite difficult to find a plane that meets all of the criteria. For that reason I understand I might need to concede an item or two to get the others, and then look at doing them later myself. So where would you concede? snip.......

Have you tried a different indicator? Even if yours has been sent away, cleaned and "verified" it very well could be the source of your frustration. Check your POH. I really doubt that the fuel flow is a required instrument. Look in the limitations section. Only those items included for the operating limitations, instrument markings, and basic placards necessary for the safe operation of the airplane, its engine, standard systems and standard equipment are required equipment. If it is listed in Limitations then it must be original equipment or replacement by STC.

FliteSoft from RMStek has a wxworx connection. Of course you must have the wxworx receiver for it to work. Display it on their moving map.

Quote: TurboExec He must really love his bird....(who doesn't). But I would imagine it would be cheaper to sell and buy an electric one. You'll end up with a newer model year most likely and with this market you'll take a hit on the sale, but it wouldn't cost much more to step up to say a 201...

For takeoff I switch the JPI to EGT only and set it on #1. Full forward(if at a high density airport lean to 1275°F) on the takeoff roll. Gear up and positive rate reduce RPM to 2600 and trim to 120kts. Maintain 1275 - 1280°F EGT in climb with the mixture control to altitude. Level off, close the cowl flaps, reduce RPM to desired and stabilize, Lean 10° to 20°F LOP depending on altitude.

I had a FREM w/roller tappets installed last year in my 84 M20J. I don't have any speed checks from before the exchange. I did do a brief run 25x2500 full rich with the new engine at 1500 MSL and got 168kts.

one more thing to consider. ALL factory engines now come with roller tappets. If you get the FREM it will have roller tappets. If you get a field overhaul it will not have them.

I was quoted $1952 difference for a FREM engine. Dual vs. single magnetos. This was factory charge for different cores. I decided to stay with the dual magneto. Properly maintained, they are no more or less safe than the single units.

If you have an engine with only 1900 hours and no problems I sure would be looking at getting it overhauled instead of trading it off for something that you don't have any history on. Find a shop that works with an engine overhauler and combine the engine work with an annual. Your downtime will be reduced.

I was flying today. Level flight in smooth air when I entered very light rain. Almost a mist actually. As I watched the water stream back from the windshield I looked at the ASI and found that I had lost 3kts! When I cleared the rain cell and the plane dried off quickly my 3kts. came back. First time I had every noticed this, probably because the ride was so smooth.

Quote: alun welll i spent a long time yesterday when we were orbiting and could find nothing about the gear trip switch popping if the manual leaver was not locked. will have another look today. thanks.

I use Lapeer Aviation Inc. at Dupont-Lapeer airport, Lapeer, Michigan.

Yes, check your POH. A check of the release latch on the manual gear extension is in my preflight checklist. "Emergency Gear Extension Red Handle - DOWN and LATCHED."

my useful load is 875 lbs. The basic empty weight as deliveried in 1984 was useful load of 894 lbs.

I got a much better understanding of my Mooney when I learned to carry my checkbook with me everytime I got near the plane. :>)

At the risk of being too blunt, remember you usually get what you pay for. What I mean is you can end up with quite a few $2,000 pre-buy bills if you are not careful to filter your selections first. In this market there are some seemingly "great prices" and everyone knows it is a "buyers market". It is also a time when poorly cared for, roughly treated, neglected and abused planes are mixed in the market where the prices look good.They may appear to be great deals until you start looking hard. IF you focus on the cheapest in the list, you may spend a few $2,000 pre-buys and get VERY discouraged.

Quote: GeorgePerry

when I picked up my plane. the tie downs were in a bag on the hat rack. They are still there. I only put them in when needed.

Get the list and talk with the owner. So it was not as good as the owner claims. What plane is? I would be more concerned with the mechanic doing the pre-buy. Is he good enought to find all the squawks? What you really want is a clear picture of the true condition of the plane. Make the $$ adjustments and decide if it is still a good deal. All planes need some kind of maintenance All mooney wings leak. So far you have not shared anything that is a deal stopper. The owner is representing his plane. I hope you are not making a purchase based on what the owner says.

Quote: KSMooniac Cruiser, by leaning to maintain 1275 in the climb you did not end up on the lean side of peak up high. Perhaps you leaned too quickly for the JPI to "keep up". I've done a few flights at 16k over CO and keep WOT, 2700 RPM, and lean to best power. You cannot hurt our 201 engines up that high with the mixture knob since they're not producing much power, so don't worry about that. All that you need to do is watch the CHTs because the thin air does not cool them as well as at lower altitudes. I would start by trying to find 40-80 ROP or so up high, and if the CHTs creep up above 380, then lean from there until they cool down. If your engine ran rough at any setting leaner than 1275, then perhaps you have an induction leak. If it is very slight, then it is possible that it would not manifest itself as rough operation when you lean at higher power settings, but could show up as a rough idle or when leaning at high altitude (ie low power). If you suspect that, then I would suggest repeating the GAMI lean test at a low power setting (say 50%) and at a higher power setting (say 70-80%) and see if you note any roughness. Recording the data should point to the cylinder(s) that might be giving you trouble. I recently R&R'd all 4 of my cylinders, and ended up with an induction leak from one of the rubber o-rings on an induction tube that got misaligned during installation. The engine ran fine LOP at 80% power, but idled poorly. Fixing the leak fixed the idle problem.

In order to tryout my new Oxymiser cannula I took a flight climbing up to 14,500' the other day. I have never flown above 10,000 MSL before. Along the way I continually leaned the mixture to maintain a constant 1275°F EGT. My cylinder temps were holding steady at 325°F. When I leveled off and an closed the cowl flaps the cylinder temps jumped up to 350°F. I decided to try setting LOP on the JPI analyser and to my surprise when I started to lean, the engine immediately began running rough. I think the JPI was totally confused but I ended up richening the mixture and the JPI showed 20°F LOP. I don't know if that is correct because I never really saw a peak EGT. The engine smoothed out and EGTs were about 1410°F and FF was 7.9GPH. I was as low as 6.5GPH at one time. By continually leaning the engine in the climb did I end up on the lean side of peak before I reached altitude? Anyone else flying their M20J at 14,000 or higher how do you setup for power at this altitude? I was WOT 2600RPM

I have a Hoskins FT-101 w/transducer removed from an '84J if you need it. TomK gkow@cros.net

An external shunt is basically a very low value resistor that is in series, and then the ammeter is in parallel to the shunt. Basically MOST of the current goes through the shunt and only a small percentage goes through the ammeter. By knowing the resistance of the shunt and the meter, the meter is able to calculate the total current by measuring only the small current that goes through the meter. This kind of setup allows small wires to be run to the ammeter in the cockpit, and the high current to remain in the engine compartment. The reason for the fuse on that small ammeter wire is if the shunt is damaged or a connector breaks, it would try to flow all the current through the remaining path which is the small ammeter wire and that would melt that wire. Sounds like the shunt resistance is not matched to the ammeter

Not sure why wire gauge has anything to do with the ammeter not indicating. Did you check the fuses?